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Re: Low coolant warning appears 100 miles after
Common fault - look closely at the connection for the small hose on the expansion tank, you will probably find the plastic spigot is cracked where it joins the tank,
just fitted my second new tank !! £70 to buy !!
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Change your thermostat. Ensure that your radiator fan is running at idle. See if your heat blows warm or not when the engine is warmed. if the heat is clod, then you have no water circulation in your engine. either the thermostat isnt opening up, or there is a blockage in your cooling system.
he causes of white exhaust smoke can vary; however, it is common to see white exhaust smoke when first starting a car, especially on cooler days. This is generally steam caused by condensation. As the engine warms up and the condensation dissipates the white exhaust smoke (steam) is no longer seen. If excessive white exhaust smoke is present well after the engine warms up, it is necessary to have the car inspected for possible internal coolant leaks. Indicators of an internal coolant leak include billowing white exhaust smoke accompanied by a sweet odor or a low coolant reservoir level. An internal coolant leak can also contaminate the engine oil giving it a frothy, milky appearance. Even small amounts of coolant entering the combustion chamber will produce white exhaust smoke.
One of the main causes of white exhaust smoke and coolant loss is a cracked or warped cylinder head, a cracked engine block, or head gasket failure caused by overheating. A cracked head may allow coolant to leak into one or more cylinders or into the combustion chamber of the engine. Dirty coolant, a poorly maintained cooling system, a low coolant level, or a non-functioning cooling fan can cause engine overheating. In addition, engine wear can eventually cause the gaskets to lose their capacity to seal properly allowing internal coolant loss. Intake manifold gasket and head gasket failures are two of the most common sources of internal coolant loss caused by engine wear.
Never remove the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap while the engine is hot or running as it can cause serious injury; always allow the car to cool down completely first. Checking for a low coolant level in the reservoir is the first step in determining if coolant loss is causing the white exhaust smoke. If the coolant reservoir is at the proper level but excessive white exhaust smoke is present, a cooling system pressure check is required to determine where, if any, coolant leaks are located.
1. If you need to jump start the car the battery is failing and you need to replace it. Other wise you may have an excessive power drain while the car is sitting which is running down the battery sufficiently so it will not run the starter motor.
2. If you have a low coolant warning light then you need to check the coolant level in the radiator when the engine has cooled and top it up using only the correct spec coolant for the car as specified by GM. Coolant level in the radiator needs to be checked very regularly in any event as does engine oil and power steering fluid level. If the coolant is low your engine will overheat and will likely cause very expensive engine damage many times what it will cost to fix the cause of the low coolant. You will have an external leak(such as a leaking radiator or leaking hose or failed radiator cap etc etc ) or an internal coolant leak that is causing the loss of coolant. Whatever the cause, and you need to have it investigated and repaired straight away if the cooling system continues to lose coolant.
old post , no year car, 1989 to 2002
there are 3 engines, 2 up to 1998. all made by toyota overheating is it,
forget all else. FIND reason for overheating, coolant lost top list.
if loosing coolant that is #1 above all else. find cause.
overheating KILLS all ENgines. if not cured fast.
is it pinging? that too kills engines.
your engine should never overheat unless it has cooling problems or.
unless the head is warped now, it will overheat, due to coolant loss
is it loosing coolant every hour or day?
CRANKING ALL ENGINES THAT DONT START DRAINS ALL BATTERIES, IT'S NOT a SYMPTOM IT'S NORMAL FOR NOSTARTS. (starter sucks 100 amps from battery every try)
id do a compression test first.
look for coolant in these spots
1: pavement below car.
2: passenger foot wells. (heat core leaks)
3: low radiator at neck cold show no coolant seen there.
4: in the a/t transmission, turns AFT to chocolate milk.
5: water in the engine oil pan, and or the reverse.
oil in the radiator, or side tank.
do all you can to not overheat any engine, and keep the repair bill like 1/3 or less. of BOOM
eeek, sounds like a possible head gasket failure. Check your coolant and oil. If the coolant is low top it off, and if the oil is milky, you are getting coolant in your oil which is usually a bad head gasket.
It's not a good idea to drive a car that is overheating. Permanent engine damage can occur. You need to find out what is causing the overheating problem. First, check the coolant level. Do this with a cold engine to avoid burns when you remove the radiator cap. If the fluid level is low, replenish with a 50/50 mixture of anitfreeze and water. Be sure to use an antifreeze that is compatible with aluminum. With the radiator full, run the engine until the top radiator hose is warm to the touch. Carefully remove the radiator cap and observe the coolant for several minutes to determine if it is flowing through the engine. If the coolant does not seem to be flowing, then you need to replace the thermostat. If you replace the thermostat, it would be a good time to flush the cooling system with a good commercial product such as Prestone Super Flush. Follow the directions closely. Refill the cooling system with the correct antifreeze. Avoid Dexcool antifreeze. It has too many problems associated with it. If the warning light is still on, you may need to use a scanner to clear it. Drive the car normally and watch for any signs of overheating. Keep a close eye on the coolant level. If it was low earlier, that could mean you have a leak. Let me know the outcome.
Hi the problem you are having is with the low level sensor this is located in the coolant filler cap and all you need to do is get this replaced, they are not expensive to buy and it will solve your problem.
first check the wires are not loose or shorting give them a good wiggle and see if the warning light goes off also get someone to press the switch by hand and see if that turns the light off or not.
let me know if you need further assistance ok
plz rate this solution as i have a whole page of unrated posts, thanks
When your temperature gauge reaches "H' it may too late to
prevent a major breakdown. Knowing the symptoms of an overheated car and how
they occur may be the difference between being inconvenienced and
incapacitated. Identification:---Other than a low oil level or low oil
pressure light, there is not a more significant part of a car's instrumentation
than a rising temperature gauge or a glowing "Hot" light. These
lights are really the only confirmation a driver has that his car is really
overheating. It is the identification of the symptoms of an overheating car
that enable the motorist to avert a badly damaged engine. Overheating is always
a traumatic event for a car's engine, which makes the early identification of
the symptom an important addition to the informed motorist's tool kit. Stuck Thermostat:--The car's thermostat is a valve that controls coolant
flow from the engine block to the radiator. When the engine is cold the
thermostat remains closed so that the coolant can reach operating temperature
quicker and also provide heat to the passenger's compartment. The thermostat
has a spring on it that moves depending on coolant temperature causing the
thermostat to open. Sometimes the thermostat fails to open thus restricting
coolant flow to the radiator where it would be cooled down. This condition is often
the cause of overheating. The symptoms of this cause would be a rising
temperature gauge and possibly the loss of heat inside the car. Restricted Radiator:---A car's radiator will have thousands of gallons of
coolant passing through in its lifetime. Along with the coolant comes
particulate matter in the form of corrosion breaking loose from various parts
of the car's cooling system. These contaminates collect in the tubes of the
radiator reducing its efficiency. Extensive "plugging" in the radiator
will cause the car to overheat. The symptom of this condition would be a rising
temperature gauge which goes up when you accelerate. Coolant Loss:--A car's
cooling system is a closed loop system. You are not supposed to lose coolant.
Sufficient coolant loss will cause the engine to run hot because engine is
heating less coolant to higher temperatures. The symptom of overheating induced
by coolant loss would be a pool of coolant on the pavement when the leak is
external. Steam under the hood as the lost coolant hits hot parts of the
engine, or a rising temperature gauge in the case of a undetectable engine
related leak. Of course, the gauge would also go up if the leaks were not
Deteriorated Water Pump:--Cars
use a belt driven pump to push the water and coolant mixture through the
cooling system. This part is called the water pump. Rarely the impeller that
draws the coolant through the pump will rust away making it impossible to push
any through the system. If this occurs the temperature gauge will climb and coolant
will boil over in the radiator.
cooling fans are electrically driven. Some are driven by fan belts. If a belt
breaks or the electric supply to the fan is interrupted overheating may result.
Electric fans are tuned on thermostatically when needed. When the car runs at
idle for extended periods or the weather is extremely hot, a failed fan will
cause overheating otherwise it serves as a standby assist to the rest of the
cooling system. In stress conditions an inoperable fan will cause the
temperature gauge to rise.
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