Question about 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

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My 2000 blazer LED 3rd light is out. a couple people said only the dealer can fix it. any suggestions?

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I have a 2002 blazer with the glass mount LED bar. dealership said it would be $230 to fix and replace. i went to a local junk yard picked one up for $35. after removing mine (2 screws on both sides, gently pry up, it will be tough with the seal underneath). the panel that holds the rear cargo dome light will have to be removed, there are about 8 pressure clips holding it in. just pull down and it will come out. the wiring harness is spliced off of the dome light. i may have foam rapped around it. fallow the blue and white wires to connector that connects to black and yellow wires. you'll need a small flat head screwdriver to separate the harness's. on the glass mounted lights there was a plug that went into the body. after about a half hour of my fingers and a screwdriver to pull it out. (hint: attach a string or another wire to fish everything back through the same holes) Gently pull the wires through the back of the vehicle. if you have a new one, reverse the steps that you have taken now. the wires into. slid the wires back in the plug. then reverse the steps you took to remove it all. hope this will help.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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The brake lights my 2000 Chevy Blaser do not work, the turn lights work and the running lights work and the brake light on top of the blazer is working

We bought a 2000 Blazer in '02 and one day I noticed there were no brake lights, but the 3rd light on top worked fine. I did some research online and found out there was a recall on this problem due to the hazard switch on the column. I also found out if I wiggled the hazard switch a certain way, the brake lights worked. I was able to get by for awhile by wedging a 'widget' beside the hazard switch button and the hole in the column cover. This worked fine until someone would knock the widget out of place.
I finally got around to having the switch replaced at a local dealer. All was fine until last week when I was told the brake lights were out again and I found out my hazard lights didn't work either. I changed out the switch assembly myself this time, and once I had it out I saw what happened. The brake light voltage comes in to the assembly on a white wire, and the first contact this goes through is on the hazard switch. In my case the contact had obviously overheated from the brake light current and melted the plastic holding the contact in place, thus breaking the circuit to the brakes. Either a poor design or too much current for the circuit to handle.
Soooooo now I am in the process of replacing the four bulbs in the tail/brake light assembly with 3 watt Luxeon LED plug-in replacements. The current draw of the original bulbs was measured at 2.2 amps at 13.8 volts, times 4 bulbs makes about 8.8 amps that goes through the contact in the hazard switch whenever the brakes are stomped. The LED replacements draw .2 amp each, so times 4 will be .8 amp or less than 1/10th of the original equipment bulbs. These LED bulbs in my opinion are as bright or brighter than the original equipment and hopefully will help from burning out another switch assembly.. David

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