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Vacuum servos not working properly - 1999 Dodge Durango

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Check for leaks or broken lines, you can probably here them

Posted on Sep 27, 2009


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Lights come on, actuator is working, why doesn't 4x4 engage?

probly front axle actuator if not used a bit it tend to seize you can take it of and check it

Feb 05, 2016 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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My brake pedal is hard to push down i have a 95 1999 saab

Possible vacuum operated brake booster problem. Make sure adequate supply of vacuum is at the booster. If vacuum and booster are ok, possible seized caliper slide pin assemblies/seized wheel cylinder/s or defective ABS control unit if equipped

Jan 06, 2016 | Saab Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have an Isuzu 280 Dt 4x4 1998 model the break pedal went hard and high but when the breaks are bled the problem disappears for a while but repeat it self what could be the problem

I'd have to agree with Jakesmuscle.
A hard brake pedal is usually due to the brake servo - the vacuum - not working properly.

Check the hoses on the servo unit for splits or perishing.

A quick check you can do is, with the engine idling, spray a light oil around your brake servo unit. If you get 'blue smoke' from your exhaust this can point to an air leak in the servo unit. The oil has been sucked in via an air leak and burnt ..

Nov 04, 2015 | Isuzu i-280 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No funciona el ventilador

The flaps that control the ventilation are either cable or vacuum servo controlled. Have someone operate the controls, and try to watch if the cables or servos move properly. It is probably a broken or loose cable, or a broken vacuum line or diaphram.

Aug 28, 2010 | 1990 Pontiac Trans Sport

1 Answer

No servo assistance on master brake cylinder golf II 1991

Make sure your vacuum hose is not leaking and connected properly.

Apr 29, 2010 | 1991 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

2002 econoline ac front heat rear is problem. Plenty of ac in the front but heat blowing from bottom vents in passenger rear of van.

Heat and a/c is controlled by a vacuum servo on the rear heater box. if vacuum is lost then the servo defaults to heat. I recomment removing the rear left quarter trim to access the vacuum servo(servo cylindrical and a little smaller than 1/2 soup can, it has a flat metal rod sticking out). Use a vacuum pump to test the servo and see if it moves and holds vacuum. If it doesn't work them replace it. If it does work then test to see if there is vacuum at the hose that attaches to the servo (with engine running try test in both a/c and heat modes) it should have vacuum in a/c mode. If no vacuum is present then you will have to trace the vacuum line back to the heater contol head looking for splits or cracks. At the heat control head you can test to see if vacuum comes from the control head or not. I suggested starting in the rear because servo failure is rather common since it is only used seasonally.
I hope this helped. This is all based on a ford factory system. Your vehicle description says "cutaway" so if it has the ford rear system this will work. If it is not a ford system then I would need more info as to what kind of system it is.

Apr 04, 2010 | 2002 Ford Econoline Cutaway

1 Answer


hi from uk you do not say if engine is petrol/diesel ? reason for asking is that on petrol engine the vacuum for b/servo is from inlet manifold whereas on diesel it is created by a seperate vacuum pump usually on uk models by being bolted/driven on the alternator by belt ? however from what symptoms you describe i would suspect that on 1st application on brake pedal ? the vacuum is gone hence pedal goes hard due to loss of vac assistance ? whereas vac should last for 2 or 3 applications ?b4 all vac is gone when vehicle/engine is off so the problem may be the vacuum hose to servo unit is leaking or split ? or the servo inner piston diagphram is leaking as you press pedal resulting in no assistance unfortunately servo is not serviceable and req's replacement this is not beyond diy if you wish to? on diesel vacuum is from pump but same principle as to vacuum for servo this may be pump thet is worn out ? or hose split ? or on some occasions thedrive belt slack? also on some diesels the vac pump can be driven off therear of camshaft ? in which case pump considering age of car +milage ? may be pump fault SO hope you understand all above? try this run engine then stop press b/pedal and if pedal goes hard or slowly pushes back ? this is vacuum being used and leaking you can test pump with vacuum guage then check if operating and holding good vacuum if not pump is worn if yes then may well be servo diagphram you can buy servo units without the b/master cyl which you will not require

Dec 07, 2009 | 2000 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

1998 jeep Cherokee cruise control does not work. how can it be fixed?

Check your vacuum hose routing to the cruise control servo, it's a hard plastic hose and sometimes breaks. Does your vents work properly? An indication that you have a vacuum leak.

Jun 05, 2009 | 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

4 Answers

4wd not working even though light indicates it's on

i have the same problem as well, but this is the solution i have found, which i have yet to try.

"look under the battery for th4 4x4 servo. it looks like a cruise control servo.
or could be the vac switch in the t-case. thses trucks were know for the vac switch to go bad. whick would cause it to **** tranny fluid into the vac lines to the servo. whick cause's the rubber to get soft and weak. which would cause it to not hold vac or tear the rubber."

from S-10 forums.

Please leave a reply to clarify if this fixes your problem as well.

Dec 05, 2008 | 1995 GMC Jimmy

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