Question about 1998 Ford Contour
Remove serpentine belt by relieving pressure on idler pulley ..and change belt also if it needs it....two bolts should hold it in place...if its located at the bottom of the engine then i"d advise raising the car safley with two stands and a floor jack...i never work with out this set up because i had a floor jack creep down on me once. thank god i had jack stands under there.
Posted on Sep 27, 2009
From underneth through the pass. wheel well. It's easier if you remove the cv axle, to get the bolt in the back and to get it out. It's a tough job on a lft good luck.
Posted on Sep 27, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Make sure that the MAXIFUSE is ok by taking the 4
bolts off the coil pack at the rear of the engine by the firewall.
Under the coil pack is the maxifuse with red coverings on either end
and a black plasctic center.
A bad maxifuse will have the same symptoms as a bad alternator...but cheaper to fix! Just ohm it with a volt meter. To remove an alternator from a 1998 Ford Contour 4 cylinder, you have to remove the pass. side tire and splash-shield.
Remove the neg. cable from the battery and lay it so accidental contact can not happen. Remove the belt with a 3/8ths drive ratchet (no socket). This entire REMOVAL process will take around 3-4.5 hours.
At this point take heart, you will have to reach behind the alternator and remove the lower retaining mount bolt with a 13mm socket. You can help it at first by twisting the end of the bolt with your thumb and index finger...just twist as you turning the ratchet. It would prove advantegeous to have a 3/8ths ratchet with swivel head here.
Although, you will only be able to turn the ratchet one "click" at a time. Once you get that bolt going, it wont be long before you can twist it out by the head with the very tips of your fingers. Yes, there is absolutely no room for reaching your entire hand back there.
After nearly an hour working the first bolt out, you will have to start the upper second bolt. This is where it gets really time consuming. But, do not give up. You are doing it for free while shops DO WANT 500.00 for the job! Now,use 1/4" drive ratchet and a 13mm socket to crack it free by reaching from the firewall (insulation is scrtchy on the hand) and attaching the ratchet/socket to the bolt head and inserting a bar from the bottom to push the end of the ratchet up. That cracked it free. Then, swith sockets to a 1/2" socket....this size will keep the socket on the head a little more snuggly while you use your finger tips to ratchet. EVENTUALLY, the bolt will surcome to your powers.
Just when you think your done.... On the back of the alternator, Ford Engineers thought it would be hilarious to attach a 90 degree bracket with a 10mm bolt that fixes to the alternator casing and frame. Just remove the 10mm bolt that goes into the alternator from the bottom of the car. Now the easy part. There is a sway bar drop link there in the way. You will need a 17mm open-end wrench and socket.
Affix the wrench to the back side of the TOP of the link and lossen the bolt. After the link is outta the way, you can grab a crow bar or large flat head screwdriver and pry the alternator out of its bracket. Once its down, you can turn it almost all the way around and take off the electrical connections.
Here you will find 3 wire connections: One is the main return covered by a red boot...lift the boot and there you will find a 10mm nut to loosen. Next there will be a funky connector that resembles a fuel injector connection...push the wire retainer in while pulling the connector body out.
Finally, you will have a single wire connector on the side of the alternator body that you will unclip and remove. Now that the alternator is free to come out, you will have many variations of ways in which to extract it from that small space. Its just a matter of trial and error. you will find it relaxing to remove it from the left hand side of the strut instead of forward the strut. Dont worry it'll come out. As far as putting it back in..... Just reverse the removal.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
These codes are dealer specific. Please call you local dealer and they will give you the exact meaning.
For now I think you may find the code needs to be verified.
Here is my advice.
Have the reading done by - Auto Zone and also Advance Auto all over again. If the codes match
Take down the vin# - call the dealer and tell them the code. Ask them what it means and - -ask if your vin# brings up and recalls or service needs as issued by the factory. Some things never go out of date.
One last this - your header here says 1995 -your note says 1998. You need to sort that out as well.
Posted on Jan 28, 2010
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