Question about 1998 Chrysler Town & Country

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Coolant tubing for rear heat and air leaking around front wheel well. tried to bypass where tubing ends by master cylinder booster, no luck-water and coolant still comes from lines i tried to bypass what did i miss

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There should be a spliter some where

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

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I have an 01 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4WD & we are trying to bleed the brakes but the scanner says my vehicle is going 3MPH so we manually bleed the brakes but the pedals still easily is pushed to the floor.


Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

Feb 26, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to put in a brake booster and master cylinder on a 1989 ford motorhome


Really no different than on small cars unless you have Air brakes. Before doing this, test booster for leaks by spraying water mist on brake booster with engine running.

Engine will run differently or stall if booster draws in water mist. Try suction to remove brake fluid from Master as you will smell brake fluid that you spill or open brake line and let fluid out on both front and rear wheel. You may not need a different brake booster.

Money can be saved by repairing yourself, but what I suggest is bad brake work can cause an accident. Other repairs may not have that potential. At least watch a Video through an internet search, get a HELP CD from an Autoparts store or watch someone in person first.

You will need some quality FLARE wrenches to keep from rounding off the tubing fittings.

Apr 05, 2015 | 1989 Ford F 350

2 Answers

How to check brake system failure


Usually air in systems or leaking. If you have drums on rear check cylinders and for fluid on pipes under the vehicle. If u have done this then check brake master cylinder for leaks and vacuum pipes good luck

Oct 10, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Had brakes when parked, replaced front rotors, pads, turned rotors, replaced brake lines no rear brakes replaced hubs,shoes wheel cyc, lines master cylinder, booster and bleed.bypassed abs system. could...


Sounds like you have an air lock in your distribution block or it could be a bad distribution block all together. Sometimes you can tap it lightly and the air lock will bleed out. Also check your vacuum booster. If it is real hard to press the brake petal down, with the motor running, the vacuum booster diaphragm is blown, or there is a vacuum leak in the line to the booster. Pull the vacuum line off the booster with the engine running to see if there is vacuum to the booster, this will likely make the engine stall out if the booster is working properly. A little trick I do when bleeding my brakes is take about 16 inches of clear tubing that fits the bleeder, then get a quart Mason jar stick the tubing that is attached to the bleeder into the jar, then add about and inch of brake fluid to the jar and start pumping the petal. Always keep an eye on the jar and your master cylinder as to not let the master cylinder run out, or the jar to overflow. Hope this helps, good luck. If I think of something else I'll do another post.

Jun 10, 2014 | 2000 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

I install reman booster new master cylinder and the pedal goes to the floor what can i do


You probably need to start over...1st by bench bleeding the master cylinder...(you can do this on your truck...review the bleeding instructions...after completing this you need to be sure the master cylinder is full of brake fluid...you will need a helper...but your next step will be to bleed each wheel brake caliper or cylinder. Start with the right rear, next left rear, then right front to drivers side front...(farthest away to start) you may have a brake fluid leak...if not, your pedal pressure should continually raise...Hope this helps.

Nov 16, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

2 Answers

I have a ford f150 that i have redone the brakes but all i getting is a brake pedal and then goes to floor


Bleed your brakes, starting with Right rear, left rear, right front and ending with left front. You have air in the lines or a bad master cylinder. Bleeding is the cheaper of two options.

Mar 10, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1995 K3500 rear brake reservoir keeps losing fluid. No sign of a leak yet. Is the rear reservoir for the front brakes or rear brakes? Have front calipers and rear drums. Thanks


Hi, you are right the rear is for the rear,the best thing is to pull both rear wheels off and remove drums that way you are looking at the wheel cylinder and then you will know if that is your problem,some times when they leak you cant see it with out pulling drums off. If no problem there check around master cylinder for leaks and around brake booster inside truck. Then if you still have no sign of fluid take the two nuts off master cylinder and see if leak is in side booster is wet.
If need more info please re post.
Thanks dodge tec

Jan 02, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet K3500

1 Answer

Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Experienceing loss of power to brakes


1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.

Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Dec 10, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

2004 sprinter set for(4 months) Now Brakes fade. Engine off hard as rock,engine on bleeds down.Replaced booster,master cyl,bled M/C and all wheels . answers ? Can I just bypass the abs ecu with fittings...


NO!! Flush the brake lines again, and bleed properly.!!! 2 person job, Open bleeder valve pump peddle down, keep down and close fitting, Start with the furthist one first from master cylinder. REAR PAssenger,Rear drivers,Front pass and the Drivers side.!! Are you loosing fluid?? Brake light on?? Check all fitting could have a small leak. There is air in the system somewhere!! Check all vacuum hoses to the Master cylinder, the could crak and leak, GOOD LUCK !

Apr 30, 2009 | 2006 Dodge Sprinter

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