Question about 2001 Ford Focus

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I have a 2001 2.0split port DOHC and the #3 cylinder shattered, bending the push-rod and damaging the cylinder wall in three places leaving deep gouges and about a 1'' crack just in the cylinder wall of the block. So far the head appears to have made it out ok with the exception of a few indentations from the piston pushing debris into it and I believe it can be surfaced and be ok. I'm not sure as to the best way to handle the block damage.

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That block damage sounds like it is too deep to be honed out. You probable are going to need to replace the block.

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

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1 Answer

How do you remove the clutch master cylinder on a 2003 ford ranger


First drain oil at slave cylinder, then remove pipe from master cylinder . disconnect clutch pedal push rod from cylinder , remove bolts holding cylinder to fire wall remove cylinder. wash off any fluid with water as it will damage paint .

May 16, 2014 | 2003 Ford Ranger Regular Cab

1 Answer

Timing chain


bent push rods could have been caused when the chain broke and not from the chain been replaced wrong or the timing out.

if the engine was running when the chain broke the cam would have stopped leaving all the valves in the same positon as the mometum of the fly wheel continued to turn the pistons in the cylendars could hav come up and hitting the valves and bending the push rods. and or damaging the cylendar head.

recommend removing the head and have it checked for damage, as well as replacing the bent push rods, and cylendar gaskit. once the head is checked and the valves are seated well. then replace and follow instructions in the set up for the pistons and cam prior to replacing the chain and setting the timing.

I hope this was helpful.

Oct 20, 2012 | 1991 GMC C3500

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How do i use a 10 inch three jaw adjustable puller to remove a crankshaft damper on a 1997 2.4 liter D.O.H.C dodge stratus?


You don't. There is a special 3 jaw puller, specific for Chrysler products and a few other vehicles. I comes with three various length rods that slide into the hole in the end of the crankshaft and into the end of the puller bolt to obtain the correct length. The jaws of the puller have slots rather than hooks that slide onto machined surfaces in the inner part of the damper. These pullers are available for rent at auto parts stores. usually it's free, you just leave a deposit. trying to use a standard puller on the outside of the damper will damage the damper.

Aug 17, 2011 | Dodge Stratus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I need a print out of how i can change out a head gasket on a 1995 mercury cougar


Removal
  1. Drain engine cooling system.
  1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301) .
  1. Remove engine air cleaner (ACL) (9600) including air cleaner outlet tube (9B659) .
  1. Loosen drive belt tensioner (6B209). Remove drive belts (8620) .
  1. If LH cylinder head (6049) is being removed, perform the following:
    1. Remove oil filler cap (6766) .
    1. Remove power steering pump front mounting bracket retaining bolts.
    1. Remove generator (GEN) (10346) and belt idler pulley (8678).
    1. Remove power steering pump/generator bracket retaining bolts. Leave hoses connected, place pump/bracket assembly aside in a position to prevent fluid from leaking out.
  1. If RH cylinder head is being removed, perform the following:
    1. Remove drive belts .
    1. If equipped with A/C, remove mounting bracket retaining bolts. Leave hoses connected and position A/C compressor (19703) aside.
    1. Remove positive crankcase ventilation valve (PCV valve) (6A666) .
  1. Remove upper intake manifold (9424) .
  1. Remove valve cover retaining bolts.
  1. Remove fuel injection supply manifold (9F792).
  1. Remove lower intake manifold as outlined.
  1. Remove exhaust manifolds (9430) as outlined.
  1. Loosen rocker arm seat retaining bolts enough to allow rocker arm (6564) to be lifted off the push rod (6565) and rotate to one side.
  1. Remove push rods . Identify position of each push rod . Push rods should be installed in their original position during assembly.
  1. Remove cylinder head retaining bolts and discard.
  1. Remove cylinder heads .
  1. Remove and discard old head gaskets (6051) .
Installation
  1. NOTE: Lightly oil all bolts and stud bolt threads before installation except those specifying special sealant.
    Clean cylinder head, intake manifold , valve cover (6582) and head gasket surfaces. If cylinder head was removed for head gasket replacement, check flatness and sealing areas for scratches of cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces. Refer to Section 03-00 for procedure.
  2. Position new head gaskets onto cylinder block (6010) using cylinder head to block dowels (6A008) for alignment.

    Head Gasket


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  3. Position cylinder heads onto cylinder block .
  4. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Always use new cylinder head bolts to ensure a leak-tight assembly. Torque retention with used bolts can vary, which may result in coolant or compression leakage at the cylinder head mating surface area.
    -ft).
  5. For 3.8L non-SC engine, tighten cylinder head retaining bolts in numerical sequence in three steps as follows:
    1. 20 Nm (15 Lb-Ft)
    1. 40 Nm (29 Lb-Ft)
    1. 50 Nm (37 Lb-Ft)
  6. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Do not loosen all of the bolts at the same time, only work on one bolt at a time or possible damage to engine or leakage may occur.
    In sequence, loosen retaining bolts two to three revolutions and retighten bolts one at a time in the following manner:
    1. Long bolts:
      • 15-25 Nm (11-18 lb-ft).
      • Tighten bolt an additional 85-95 degrees.
      • Go to next bolt in sequence.
    1. Short bolts:
      • 10-20 Nm (7-15 lb-ft).
      • Tighten bolt an additional 85-95 degrees.
      • Go to next bolt in sequence.


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      Item Part Number Description 1 6010 Cylinder Block 2 - Locating Pin (2 Req'd) 3 N802515-S Cylinder Head Bolt (4 Req'd Each Side) 4 6049 Cylinder Head 5 N802516-S Cylinder Head Bolt (4 Req'd Each Side) 6 6A008 Cylinder Head to Block Dowel
  7. NOTE: If original valve train components are being installed, a valve clearance check is not required. If a component has been replaced, perform a valve clearance check as outlined.
    Dip each push rod end in Engine Assembly Lubricant D9AZ-19579-D or equivalent meeting Ford Specification ESR-M99C80-A and install push rods in their original position.
  8. For each valve, rotate crankshaft (6303) until valve tappet (6500) rests on the heel (base circle) of the camshaft lobe, before tightening rocker arm seat retaining bolts to 7-15 Nm (5-11 lb-ft) maximum.
  9. Lubricate all rocker arms with Engine Assembly Lubricant D9AZ-19579-D or equivalent meeting Ford Specification ESR-M99C80-A. Final-tighten the rocker arm seat bolts to 30-40 Nm (22-30 lb-ft). For final tightening, camshaft (6250) may be in any position.
  10. Install exhaust manifolds as outlined.
  11. Install lower intake manifold as outlined.
  12. Install fuel injection supply manifold .
  13. Position valve cover and new valve cover gasket (6584) on cylinder head and install retaining bolts. Note location of ignition wire routing clip stud bolts. Tighten retaining bolts to 9-12 Nm (7-9 lb-ft).
  14. Install upper intake manifold .Install spark plugs (12405) , if removed.
  15. Connect ignition wires to the spark plugs .
  16. If LH cylinder head is being installed, perform the following:
    1. Install oil filler cap.
    1. Install generator/power steering pump mounting bracket.
    1. Install generator .
    1. Install main accessory drive belt tensioner .
    1. Install power steering pump (3A674) .
    1. Install power steering pump support bracket.If RH cylinder head is being installed, perform the following:
    1. Install positive crankcase ventilation valve .
    1. If equipped with A/C, install A/C compressor mounting brackets (2882) and A/C compressor .
  17. Install drive belt and tighten to specification.
  18. Connect battery ground cable .
  19. Install air cleaner outlet tube.
2010&c18=modelyear&c35=wsm%2ccylinder%20heads%2cssd%2c03-01a%2cin-vehicle%20service&s=1249x702&c=32&j=1.3&v=y&k=y&bw=910&bh=359&ct=lan&hp=n&[aqe]

Mar 06, 2011 | Mercury Cougar Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My 2002 ford escape have 120500 miles, do i have to replace the timing chain?


The 4-cylinder 2.0-liter 16-valves DOHC 127-hp Ford Zetec engine used a timing belt that needs replacement at 120k. After 2005 both, the 2.3-liter 4-cylinder and the 3.0-liter V6 engines have a maintenance-free timing chain.

I would recommend changing the water pump while you are at it.

The 2.0 timing belt labor is 4 hours and the water pump is 10 hours in addition. Not a fun job.

Here's the process:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fordguy4u/2010-03-24_182013_A1.pdf

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fordguy4u/2010-03-24_182035_A2.pdf

Best wishes

Jan 05, 2011 | Ford Escape Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine not failed oil pressure good engine ticking think it is rod bearings how do you replace on 1997 chev Blazer


hold up rod bearings were did you get that?lets take it from the top.camshaft lobs move lifters on rotation,which lifters move push rods,push rods push valves up and down,which other side of valves push up and down valve stems,which open and close exhaust and intake stems.ok now were clear on that to see your push rods.take off your valve covers on side with tick.1.check for valve loosness.need a feeler gauge for this and specs for you truck to do this.because ticking is mostly associated with valve loosness or to tight.2.if rod is bad loosin valves but not off and inspect the rods for bends.on a flat surface.replace if bend.also make sure they to go back in same place.and repeat step 1.finally noise continues need to take in and checked possible internal damage.

Aug 17, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

How can i replace the power booster ? Can i do it without remove the dashboard ?


assume u are talking about brake booster
first unbolt the two the two nuts attaching master cylinder to booster should be able to leave brake lines on master cylinder just move master cyinder to side bending lines slightly ok just dont kink them
Now on brake pedal remove rod from brake pedal usally held on with pin and clip
now follow that rod up to fire wall you see that rod goes thu the fire wall above that rod should be two bolts and nuts and bellow that rod should be two bolts and nuts remove all four nuts then u should be able to pull boster from eninge compartment

Apr 11, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

Any info on changing a brake booster on a 1996 Sierra and also help trouble shooting a master cy. Thanxlinder


a defective master has just one common symptom, a soft sinking pedal.
Instructions Things You'll Need:
  • Nose pliers
  • Ratchet and socket
  • Ratchet extension
  • Slip joint pliers
  • Wrench
  • New cotter pin
    Removing the Old Brake Booster
  1. Step 1 Park your car in a safe place with enough room to work around the front and driver side of the vehicle.
  2. Step 2 Locate the booster push rod connected to the brake pedal.
  3. Step 3 Remove the cotter pin securing the booster push rod pin to the brake pedal using a pair of nose pliers.
  4. Step 4 Release the push rod pin from the brake pedal and slide the push rod off the brake pedal.
  5. Step 5 Unscrew the four mounting nuts off the brake booster studs using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. You should be able to see the four booster studs extending through the firewall, in front of the brake pedal.
  6. Step 6 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster, working from the engine compartment. Use a pair of slip joint pliers.
  7. Step 7 Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
  8. Step 8 Separate the brake master cylinder from the booster just enough to make room for booster removal.
  9. Step 9 Pull the brake booster off the firewall and remove it from the vehicle.
    Installing the New Brake Booster
  10. Step 1 Set the new booster in place by sliding the push rod and four mounting studs through the mounting holes on the firewall.
  11. Step 2 Slide the brake master cylinder flange over the two mounting studs on the brake booster.
  12. Step 3 Start the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts by hand to avoid damage to the threads.
  13. Step 4 Tighten the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts using a wrench or ratchet and socket.
  14. Step 5 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
  15. Step 6 Screw the four mounting nuts to the brake booster working from inside the vehicle. Start the nuts by hand to avoid damaging the threads.
  16. Step 7 Tighten the four mounting nuts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
  17. Step 8 Position the brake booster push rod over the brake pedal and slide the push rod pin.
  18. Step 9 Install a new cotter pin to secure the booster push rod to the brake pedal

Nov 20, 2009 | 1996 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Need to replace a brake booster on a 1998 chevy cavalier


get ready for some work.you need to remove the master cylinder nuts that hold master cylinder to brake booster.once you remove nuts you have 2 choices remove master cylinder to remove booster. to keep from bending brake lines.or you can leave master cylinder in pull it toward you easily careful dont bend lines .disconnect vacuum line at booster .go inside vechicle to floor on driver side loosen four nuts on floor to booster .disconnect power brake push rod from brake pedal .dont force pushrod to the sides when disconnecting it.remove four booster nuts then remove booster.when in stalling the new booster loosely install four nuts then connect the push rod to the brake pedal .install new clip tighten the booster unit .if you decide to remove master cylinder use inline wrenches on master cylinder to remove lines.also plug the master cylinder brake line holes to keep from losing all brake fluid.

Apr 26, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

I have a 1998 chryler concorde and oil is mixing in the container whereyou poor the antifreeze and water


blown head gasket, cracked head or cylinder wall. Oil is entering into coolant system. You should also check the dip stick in the engine oil. If milky or coco foamy. Would suggest not driving until problem identified. If cylinder fills with coolant with both valves closed & you crank it with the starter it could hydraulic the cylinder & bend the rod & do other damage as well.
Good luck!

Jan 19, 2009 | 1999 Saturn SL

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