which engine,there are many , state displacement and cylinder count.
DID YOU OVERHEAT IT?
this is covered in the FSM, get one.
or use Alldata.com
lots of steps.
well over 100..... counting adjustements, etc.....
i guess you never done a head job before?
do not just replace it. (gasket) check for head AND engine
deck warpage. ( a $2 tool , )
here is my wild guess,
Except Accord V-6
The cylinder head temperature must be below 100F (38C); allow the engine to cool several hours if the car has been recently driven. Turn the crankshaft pulley so that the number one piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
When the power steering hose is disconnected, the fluid will flow out. Cover the alternator with a shop towel to prevent the fluid from leaking into it.
- Disconnect the battery ground cable.
- Drain the cooling system.
- Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly.
- Label and remove the brake booster, PCV and charcoal canister vacuum hoses from the intake manifold.
- Remove the engine ground cable from the cylinder head or valve cover.
- Relieve the fuel pressure using the proper procedure. Disconnect the fuel lines.
- Disconnect the accelerator cable at the throttle body or carburetor. On automatic transaxle vehicles, also disconnect the throttle control cable.
- Disconnect and tag all the wire harnesses and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head, intake manifold and throttle body/carburetor. Disconnect the spark plug wires, then position them aside.
- Disconnect the upper radiator hose. Remove the heater hoses from the cylinder head.
- If equipped, remove the cruise control actuator. Do not disconnect the cable; move the actuator out of the work area with the cable attached.
- Remove accessory drive belts.
- Disconnect the inlet hose from the power steering pump and plug the hose immediately to prevent fluid leakage. Remove the power steering pump from the cylinder head and position it aside.
Do not crimp or bend the timing belt.
- If the alternator is mounted to the cylinder head, remove it.
- Remove the power steering and alternator brackets if they are mounted on the cylinder head.
- Remove the distributor. Be sure to scribe a line relating the position of the distributor to the engine for easy installation.
- If equipped, remove the cylinder sensor next to the distributor.
- Remove the valve cover.
- Remove the timing belt.
- Remove the exhaust header pipe nuts and the header pipe bracket (if equipped). Pull the pipe away from the exhaust manifold.
- If equipped, remove the EGR crossover and air suction pipes.
- On Accords through 1989 and Preludes through 1991, the cylinder head can be removed with the intake and exhaust manifolds either still attached or removed. On other models, the manifolds should be removed first.
- On some engines, it will be necessary to remove the camshaft holders, camshafts and rocker arms to access the cylinder head bolts. If so, refer to the proper procedures in this section.
- Remove the cylinder head bolts in sequence (take notice of any bolt holes occupied by longer bolts). Failure to follow this procedure may cause the head to warp.
- On 1984-89 Accords and 1984-91 Preludes, work from the ends toward the center. Loosen each bolt about 1/2 turn each time and make several passes to release the tension evenly.
- On 1990-95 Accords and 1992-95 Preludes, follow the loosening sequence shown in the illustrations. Loosen each bolt about 1/3 turn each time. Repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
Remove the cylinder head. The head may resist removal, even with the bolts out. Tap the edge of the head with a plastic or rubber mallet; lift the head straight up to remove it.
Remove the cylinder head gasket and clean the mating surfaces.
(do not use wire brush or metal scrapers on alum, heads)
use a plastic scraper.
then check for warping, (ask)
If applicable, remove the intake and exhaust manifolds from the cylinder head. (lol, is listed last, gotta love non FSM real online data)
i post this to dissuade you, its not complete.
there are many factors,checks and issues, TTY, and others.....
graphics missing above, head sequence rules. on and off !
if the head was overheated
, you need to get it pressure tested
and warp checked.
the top to reasons for new gaskets , put on to fail in first 10k milles
is , not warp checked, pressure checked)
or 2: surfaces were not good. (might need to be milled a tad)
3: not using new head bolts, some are TTY and if not ,should not be used 3 times.