Replacing headlight and horn switch

Replace the turn signal switch. All exterior lights run threw it, except the high mount brake light. The horn also. If the head light switch is on the handle, this should take of it also. If the headlight switch is in the dash, you might have to replace it also if they stay on.

What works? Just headlights? Does anything electrical work that does not need the ignition switch to be in the on position? Possibly four way flashers, brake lights, horn, interior light, dash lights in instrument panel as well as headlights should all work without the key in the ignition and in the acc or on position. If this is what you have, then I would say you need to replace the ignition switch.
Hope this helps.

You would need a trouble light to check and see if there is a problem with the ground or the hot wire leading to the lights. There is most likely a relay to the headlights under the dash or in the engine compartment. Check the area of the fusebox for it.

How do you know it's the horn ? Do you have a volt meter ? Check for voltage at the horns . Before replacing parts , test . Go to youtube an watch a few basic electrical trouble shooting videos . Your vehicle has two horns an the possibility of both going out is 0 . When you press the horn switch it is a signal to the BCM - body control module , then the BCM turns on the horns . Do you have an airbag light lit on the instrument cluster ? The clock spring in the steering column could be open .What fuse did you check . F32 in the battery junction box - fuse box under the hood in engine compartment . How cars clock spring works

Try checking both a; your fuses, and b; check your bulbs. You should have two fuse boxes, one under hood and one in or under the dash. Check those for bad, blown or weak fuses. And check your headlights bulbs for them being good and their connection. If this doesn't fix your problem, you may check out your highbeam switch.

Usually the power feed to the headlight switch isn't fused. It will come from a fusible link under the hood. On the right side of the firewall there is a black plastic cover, under it are the fusible links. Check here for a possible blown one. I would also suspect the headlight switch may have originally caused it to blow if thats the case. If you have already replaced the headlight switch, replacing the fusible link should repair the lights. Make sure you replace the fusible link with the same gage wire and same length.

If the tail lights and the dash lights stopped working and the tail light and the panel lighting fuses are both o.k. and you can find no other blown fuses then the problem is most likely the headlight switch.

The relay has nothing to do with the tail lights, but replacing the switch sounds like a good idea. There's a nut holding it in place, see http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/electrics/switches/switch-headlight/1027524/ to get an idea of the construction. And the price. This is not worth fiddling about unreliable workarounds...
In addition, if fuses 15 and/or 16 burn frequently there might be a problem with the tail light cabling.

Good luck
Ingo

I HAD SAME PROBLEM SOLVER OF MY MOMS 1996 CAMRY ABOUT HORN GOING OFF AND CAR WOULDN'T CRANK. JUMPED IT OFF AFTER A FEWW FRANTIC MOMENTS OF HORN HONKING-- FOUND OU IT WAS AN ALARM THING AND YOU CAN SHUT IT OFF BY TURNING IGNITION KEY TO ON POSITION AND MOVING TOGGLE SWITCH AT DRIVER KICK PANEL TO OVERIDE THE HONKING HORN PROBLEM--STILL NOT SURE WHAT CAUSED IT TO DO THIS AT BEGINNING. BATTERY WAS FULLY CHARGED AND HEADLIGHTS REAL BRIGHT TOO. COULD HAVE BEEN A DOORLOCK MANUAL MALFUNCTION--BEEN OK FOR A WEEK NOW.

Do you have high power globes fitted more than 65W.
If so you will need a relay to supply H/Lamps as the original headlamp switch has built in circuit breaker only good for about 15Amp