Question about 1993 Toyota Corolla

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1993 toyota corrolla brake problem My right side front caliber locks up on me. I have change it about 6 times already,replace the rubber hose,new master cylinder but still the same problem. The only way to keep going is to losen the bleeding screw everytime it locks up.

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  • ezfiveinall Sep 25, 2009

    no it does not thanks

  • ezfiveinall Sep 26, 2009

    Thanks for the answer but the proportion valve has been change 3 times and I still have the problem.

  • ezfiveinall Nov 04, 2009

    Well thanks for the answers on the bake corolla brake problem but I think I fixed it. First I change the master then I change the caliper I also ran air threw the line.Since then they have not lock up. Oh on the corolla, from the master to the proportion valve to the right caliper is one line the other runs from the master to a tee then to the back brakes. thanks again.

  • ryan karos May 11, 2010

    does the vechile have abs

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  • Master
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Change caliper and piston. And rotor wouldn't be bad two. The piston's do stick. If not bleeded correctly will also cause this problem. Or air leak in the system

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 27, 2009

    Check the seal and cap on booster, main and slave. Still sounds like you have air in the system or a bad caliper piston.

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  • Toyota Master
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The only other valve that would hold residual pressure is possibly the proportion valve if so equiped. If you follow the brake lines from the master cyl, they will lead yo to a muti port valvethat has all the brake lines on it. Look at the ends of the valve and tell me if there is a pin protruding from one or both ends. If a pin is proyrudingfrom one end and not the other I'll tell you how to fix it.

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

  • Ned C Cook
    Ned C Cook Sep 26, 2009

    I need to ask, did you rebuild the caliper? or replace it?. Ok, read your post again. It appears to be vbinding or not letting up on residual pressure. I had this happen on the left of a celica in the early 70's. I'm rattling my brains trying to remember what we did to correct i. Did you replace both sides?I was once told way back when, to keep in mind that there cannot be pressure until the system is equalize. Even if that wheel comes out quicker there is still no pressure, but if it is binding pressure could attain enough force to overcome the binding and in essence snap the piston out with excessive force when contact is made,over appllying. That's out because the vehicle would pull to the left on initial brake application. Are both rotors in the same condition? I'm just going through a ck list. Are the tires the same brand load rating and traction rating? Same tread and pressure, same size and tread pattern? It locks up coming to a stop, how or what do you feel when slowing? any uneveness?

    Last one, Are you using DOT 3 brake fluid? How did you bleed the system? more than likely pressure, correct? Try gravity bleeding. Just open the bleeder and let it drip until it is steady and you can't see any air at the nipple. I'm out of ideas now.. If all listed cks out, I have to concede and ponder even more. Good Luck -Ned-

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  • Master
  • 548 Answers

You have changed the brake pad or the caliper? it sounds as if the caliper itself has gone bad or the seals inside it are , you can rebuld a caliper or try buying a used one from a junkyard or a rebuilt one from a autoparts store

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

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