Question about 1996 GMC Jimmy

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Is there a big difference between, 61 ft.lbs and 65 ft.lbs on a ball joint stud.... or 79 ft.lbs and 83 ft.lbs.... so what im saying is 4 ft.lbs a lot of difference on a bolt....

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Posted on Sep 25, 2009

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What are the torque specs for lower ball joint nut the control arm on a 2003 Dodge Dakota 4WD?


Tighten the ball stud nut on the ball stud to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm
tighten the ball stud nut on the ball stud to 60 ft . lbs (81Nm)

Sep 12, 2014 | 2003 Dodge Dakota Club Cab

1 Answer

How do i fix front right ball joint for 2001 mazda protege lx?


SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT FRONT OF VECHICLE ON JACK STAND MAKE SURE VECHICLE PARKED ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND. REMOVE WHEEL OR TIRE. REMOVE BALL JOINT STUD PINCH BOLT AND NUT FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE.REMOVE BALL JOINT BY PRYING IT FROM THE KNUCKLE.REMOVE BALL JOINT TO LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLT AND NUT. INSTALL NEW BALL JOINT TO LOWER CONTROL ARM.TORQUE THE BOLT TO 86 FT LBS INSTALL BALL JOINT TO THE STEERING KNUCKLE TORQUE BOLT TO 43 FT LBS YOU MORE LIKELY NEED FRONT END REALIGNMENT AFTER THE JOB DONE.

Sep 09, 2011 | Mazda Protege Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace lower ball joints. How do you replace Lower ball jonits?


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle, allowing the front suspension to hang free.
  2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. WARNING
    Be careful when working in the area of the CV-joint boot. Damage to the boot could result in eventual CV-joint failure. If necessary, install CV-joint boot protector tool J-34754 or equivalent, to protect the boot.
  3. On Eldorado and Seville with 4.6L engine, remove the road sensing suspension position sensor from the lower control arm.
  4. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the ball joint stud. Use ball joint separator tool J-36226 or equivalent, on Deville and Fleetwood or ball joint separator tool J-35315 or equivalent, on Eldorado and Seville, to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
  5. On Deville and Fleetwood, loosen the stabilizer bar link nut.
    1. Drill out the 3 rivets retaining the ball joint to the lower control arm and remove the ball joint. NOTE: Recommended drill-bit is 1⁄2 inch (13 mm). Fig. 1: Drilling the rivets out of the lower control arm 91048g05.gif
      Fig. 2: Installing the bolts in the lower control arm 91048g06.gif
      To install:
  6. Attach the new ball joint to the lower control arm with 3 mounting bolts and nuts.
    1. On Deville and Fleetwood, the bolts must be installed from the top of the control arm.
    2. On Eldorado and Seville, the bolts must be installed from the bottom of the control arm
    3. Tighten the nuts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
    4. On Catera, the bolts must be installed from the top of the control arm.
    5. Tighten the nuts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
  7. On Deville and Fleetwood, tighten the stabilizer bar link nut to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
  8. Connect the ball joint to the steering knuckle and install the castellated nut.
  9. On Deville and Fleetwood, tighten the ball joint nut to 88 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Then tighten the nut an additional 120°, during which a tighten of 41 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) must be obtained.
  10. On Eldorado and Seville, tighten the ball joint nut to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm). Then tighten the nut an additional 120°, during which a minimum torque of 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) must be obtained. If the minimum torque is not obtained, check for stripped threads. If the threads are okay, replace the ball joint and knuckle.
  11. On Catera, tighten the pinch bolt to 74 ft. lb. (100 Nm).
  12. Install a new cotter pin. If the cotter pin cannot be installed because the hole in the stud does not align with a nut castellation, tighten the nut up to an additional 60°to allow for installation. NEVER loosen the nut to provide for cotter pin installation.
  13. On Eldorado and Seville with 4.6L engine, install the road sensing suspension position sensor to the lower control arm.
  14. If necessary, remove the CV-joint boot protector tool.
  15. Install the wheel and tire assembly and lower the vehicle. Fig. 3: Separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle 84208016.gif
    Fig. 4: Lower ball joint installation - Deville and Fleetwood 84208017.gif
    Fig. 5: Lower ball joint installation - Eldorado and Seville 84208018.gif

Jan 17, 2011 | 1991 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????


Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

I need to replace my ball joints. can you give me some tips on how to do this? I have never done this before and i would appreciate some pointers on what i need to do to get the job done. Thank you very...


UPPER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the truck with jackstands. Remove wheel.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud and loosen, but do not remove the stud nut.
  4. Using a forcing-type ball joint separator tool, loosen the ball stud in the steering knuckle. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and the stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
  5. On R-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit. Remove the ball joint assembly.
  6. On C-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit to start a pilot hole. Drill out the rivets with a 1 / 2 in. bit. Remove the ball joint assembly using a screw-type forcing tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  2. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut as follows:

    1 / 2 ton trucks: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), plus the additional torque to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) and never back the nut off to align the pin. 3 / 4 and 1 ton trucks: 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm), plus additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) and never back off the nut to align the pin.
  3. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts as follows:

    1988-90 models, tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) for the 15 and 25 Series and 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 35 the Series. 1991-98 models, tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  4. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 90 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988-90 models, 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
  5. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.
LOWER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the wheel.
  4. Remove the lower stud cotter pin and loosen, but do not remove, the stud nut.



0900c1528008f64b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the lower ball joint using a suitable tool-R-Series shown, C-series similar


0900c1528008f64c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: Use an appropriate tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle-R and C-Series


0900c1528008f64d.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 4: Installing the lower ball joint-R and C-Series
  1. Loosen the ball joint with a forcing-type ball joint tool. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain enough clearance.
  2. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and ball stud nut.
  3. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
  4. Pull the brake disc and knuckle assembly up and off the ball stud and support the upper arm with a block of wood.
  5. Remove the ball joint from the control arm with a ball joint fork or another suitable tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, start the new ball joint into the control arm. Position the bleed vent in the rubber boot facing inward.
  2. On C-series vehicles, force the ball joint into position using a screw-type forcing tool. The ball joint will bottom in the control arm. The grease seal should face inboard.
  3. On R-series vehicles, turn the screw until the ball joint is seated in the control arm.
  4. Lower the upper arm and match the steering knuckle to the lower ball stud.
  5. On C-series vehicles, start ball stud into the knuckle. Install the nut and tighten it to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-94 models and 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm) on 1995-98 models. Advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole and insert the new cotter pin. NEVER back off the nut to align the cotter pin hole; always advance it!
  6. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 80-100 ft. lbs. (108-135 Nm), plus the additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin hole. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) or back the nut off to align the holes with the pin.
  7. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.

Jan 15, 2010 | 1996 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

What is the torque settings on the head bolts for 2002 nissan x-terra 2.4litre?


① Step 1: 22 ft. lbs. Step 2: 59 ft. lbs. Step 3: Loosen completely then retorque to 22 ft. lbs. Step 4: 18-25 ft. lbs. Step 5: Plus 86-91 degrees ② 10-12 ft. lbs. plus 60-65 degrees or 28-33 ft. lbs. ③ The cylinder heads and the lower intake manifold are installed together Step 1: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 22 ft. lbs. Step 2: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 43 ft. lbs. Step 3: Loosen the cylinder head bolts completely Step 4: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 84 inch lbs. Step 5: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 35 inch lbs. Step 6: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 13 ft. lbs. Step 7: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 12-14 ft. lbs. Step 8: Loosen all intake manifold fasteners completely Step 9: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 22 ft. lbs. Step 10: Tighten the cylinder head bolts 60-65 degrees Step 11: Tighten the cylinder head sub-bolts to 80-105 inch lbs. Step 12: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 35 inch lbs. Step 13: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 78 inch lbs. Step 14: Tighten the intake manifold fasteners to 70-84 inch lbs. ④ 10-12 ft. lbs. +60-65 degrees ⑤ Step 1: 72 ft. lbs. Step 2: loosen completely to 0 ft. lbs. Step 3: 29 ft. lbs. Step 4: Plus 75 degrees clockwise Step 5: Plus 75 degrees clockwise ⑥ Step 1: bolts 11-22 19 ft. lbs. Step 2: bolts 1-10 29 ft. lbs. Step 3: bolts 1-10 Plus 60-65 degrees ⑦ Step 1: 20 ft. lbs. Step 2: loosen to 0 ft. lbs. Step 3: 14 ft. lbs. Step 4: Plus 85-95 degrees ⑧ Step 1: 31 ft. lbs. Step 2: Plus 60 degrees ⑨ 83 inch lbs. ⑩ Stud bolt: 11 ft. lbs. Nuts: 31 ft. lbs. ⑪ Step 1: 72 ft. lbs. Step 2: loosen completely to 0 ft. lbs. Step 3: 29 ft. lbs. Step 4: Plus 90 degrees clockwise Step 5: Plus 90 degrees clockwise ⑫ Bolts: 17-24 (M8) 16 ft. lbs. Install rear main seal Bolts: 1-16 (M10) 26 ft. lbs. Bolts: 1-16 (M10) Plus 90 degrees clockwise ⑬ Step 1: 33 ft. lbs. Step 2: Plus 84-90 degrees clockwise ⑭ Intake manifold collector: Bolts and nuts: 8 ft. lbs. Stud bolts: 61 inch lbs. ⑮ Intake manifold: Bolts and nuts: 5 ft. lbs. and than to 21 ft. lbs. Studs: 8 ft. lbs.

Jan 10, 2010 | 2002 Nissan Xterra

3 Answers

Ball joint installation


Go with what the ball joint specs. Besides only 2 ft.lbs. on a ball joint won't make a difference. But the parts recommendation should be used.

Sep 23, 2009 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Can't get old lower control arm off 1994 geo metro. stuck at ball joint.


remove ball stud bolts .then remove suspension arm bracket nut .remove suspension arm bracket bolts. remove rear bracket and suspension arm. torque ball stud nut 44 ft lbs torque suspension arm rear bolts 32 ft lbs.

May 05, 2009 | 1994 Geo Metro

1 Answer

Replace ball joints


Remove in this order: wheel, loosen the 4 lower ball joint set bolts, cotter pin and nut from tie rod, tie rod from ball joint bracket, ball joint from lower control arm, 4 lower ball joint set bolts, ball joint from suspension. Install is reverse but don't tighten the 4 lower ball joint set bolts.

torque is as follows:
ball joint to control arm- 112 ft-lbs
Tie rod nut- 67 ft-lbs
lower ball joint set bolts- 83 ft-lbs
remember to use a new cotter pin

Oct 08, 2008 | 2004 Toyota Tacoma

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