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Drivers light point across lane into ditch, not at all forward. How do you adjust

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Park your vehicle on level ground (preferably) facing your garage door or an available wall. Get yourself a screwdriver (usually a phillips head) and an adjustable wrench or selection of sockets. Turn the headlights on but do not start the car if possible. If your battery is close to dead, you can start the car, but be *extremely* mindful not to touch ANY moving parts in the engine during the next steps. You have been warned.
Looking at the garage door or wall, you will be able to see how badly aligned your headlights are. Open the hood to your vehicle. Look at the top of the headlights as seen from under the hood. There will be a set of screws on each one: One that controls the X (horizontal) alignment, and one for the Y (verticle) alignment. By turning the screws, you will (slowly) move the headlight. Make adjustments to these screws until the headlight in question matches the other one.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009


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For this reason, I would suggest looking at Youtube videos or finding a CD at an autoparts store which include this process.

In general, you would park between 20 or 30 feet from a wall or garage door and shine your low beams on the surface. Get a piece of tape to use as a marker for each beam to mark the starting point from the brightest point of each beam.

Then measure the height of the center of each headlight and compare to the tape mark and how high it is on the door or wall. If the center of the headlight is higher than the mark on the wall, GOOD.

What you want is the drivers' beam to point away from oncoming traffic and farther forward on your direction of travel not to become cross-eyed with the passengers' beam. Seek to not have a dark spot in the center of your travel. The passenger beam usually shifts to the curbside and up because of parked cars and no one to blind with your lights.

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Hello, If you have a State mandated headlight aim requirement, just ask at a testing facility for the specs. Usually you have the vehicle about 20-25 feet from a wall and the headlights should be no higher than 42" off the ground.
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Okay, This depends on your State laws, because some States require the headlight aiming to be performed at Inspection time.
There are small hex shaped adjustment screws around your headlamps. They require very small sockets of perhaps 1/16 th of an inch and barely fit next to the headlamp housing. At most there will be 1 for up and down and 1 for left and right so two adjustments for each lamp housing.

Unless the housing has 2 separate independently moving compartments for each low and high beam you are stuck with the setup of the low beams. This means you have to adjust the low beams and the high beams are not independently adjustable.

If you find that each lamp is independent, then disconnect the low beam bulbs and adjust the high beams at night or in a garage and put some tape or marks for a level line for a pattern. Then adjust the beams with the drivers side slightly towards the center of the car and the passengers side to the right of the car.

This is similar to how the low beams are set. You can then raise the beams up to be higher on the passengers side for better visibility. Opinions on this vary.

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The State of Texas was one State which checked headlamp alignment with every annual Vehicle Inpection. The idea is to keep from blinding oncoming motorists.

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Now the low beams adjust to the same pattern. For some reason I remember having the low beams at 42 inches height and at a distance of 25 feet. These would be the marks you would try for on the garage wall.

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