Question about 2002 Ford F150 Regular Cab

4 Answers

Intermittently engine won't start.

Batteries test fine
Alt test fine
Starter test fine

Relay's click in fuse box and vehical cannot be jumped but acts like very low batteries. After batteries are disconected vehical will start normal. suspect computer or some kind of security interference. only the factory security

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  • tylerappleto Sep 24, 2009

    Im sorry, not being very clear. The engine won't turn over. acts like the batteries are low. everything gets dim and voltage reads zero. If I disconect batteries and reconnect them the vehical voltage is normal and car starts normal. Also I did not sign up under the correct make and model for some reason. the vehical is a 2001 Ford excursion with 7.3 li power stroke. probelm is intermittent and goes away for a week or so then reappears.

  • tylerappleto Sep 24, 2009

    Batteries test fine Alt test fine Starter test fine Relay's click in fuse box and vehical cannot be jumped but acts like very low batteries. After batteries are disconected vehical will start normal. suspect computer or some kind of security interference. only the factory security

    Comments:
    Sep 24, 2009 - Im sorry, not being very clear. The engine won't turn over. acts like the batteries are low. everything gets dim and voltage reads zero. If I disconect batteries and reconnect them the vehical voltage is normal and car starts normal. Also I did not sign up under the correct make and model for some reason. the vehical is a 2001 Ford excursion with 7.3 li power stroke. probelm is intermittent and goes away for a week or so then reappears.

  • tylerappleto Sep 24, 2009

    I mean that after I disconnect the batteries and then reconnect them it is like a computer resets and the vehical starts normal. All conections, batteries and starter have been checked and tested to be operating fine.

  • tylerappleto Sep 24, 2009

    You got nothing for me?

  • tylerappleto Sep 25, 2009

    Intermittently engine won't start.Batteries test fine Alt test fine Starter test fine Relay's click in fuse box and vehical cannot be jumped but acts like very low batteries. After batteries are disconected vehical will start normal. suspect computer or some kind of security interference. only the factory security MoreBatteries test fine Alt test fine Starter test fine Relay's click in fuse box and vehical cannot be jumped but acts like very low batteries. After batteries are disconected vehical will start normal. suspect computer or some kind of security interference. only the factory security

    Comments:
    Sep 24, 2009 - Im sorry, not being very clear. The engine won't turn over. acts like the batteries are low. everything gets dim and voltage reads zero. If I disconect batteries and reconnect them the vehical voltage is normal and car starts normal. Also I did not sign up under the correct make and model for some reason. the vehical is a 2001 Ford excursion with 7.3 li power stroke. probelm is intermittent and goes away for a week or so then reappears.
    Sep 24, 2009 - Batteries test fine Alt test fine Starter test fine Relay's click in fuse box and vehical cannot be jumped but acts like very low batteries. After batteries are disconected vehical will start normal. suspect computer or some kind of security interference. only the factory security

    Comments:
    Sep 24, 2009 - Im sorry, not being very clear. The engine won't turn over. acts like the batteries are low. everything gets dim and voltage reads zero. If I disconect batteries and reconnect them the vehical voltage is normal and car starts normal. Also I did not sign up under the correct make and model for some reason. the vehical is a 2001 Ford excursion with 7.3 li power stroke. probelm is intermittent and goes away for a week or so then reappears.
    Sep 24, 2009 - I mean that after I disconnect the batteries and then reconnect them it is like a computer resets and the vehical starts normal. All conections, batteries and starter have been checked and tested to be operating fine.
    Sep 24, 2009 - You got nothing for me?

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4 Answers

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Hi! I do suspect the PCM (powertrain control module). It may be near to its break point thats why its acting up. You will need to have it replaced to get rid of the problem. Hope this helps and have a good one!

Posted on Aug 09, 2010

  • dj_relly999
    dj_relly999 Aug 17, 2010

    Hi! HOws it going?

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I believe you may have a bad connection, probably a bad ground connection. There should be a ground wire that connects from the neg term of the battery to the engine block, unbolt the connection, clean it up, and reconnect it. Run a new ground wire to engine block if need be, size 4 wire.

If this does not resolve the problem, examine the pos term and wiring to the starter.

Did you pull the starter out of the vehicle and have it tested. When the bushings begin to go, the rotor will intermittantly drag on the field coils and it will act like low battery.

If your voltage is dropping to zero, more likely you have a bad connection

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

  • buffalonyman
    buffalonyman Sep 25, 2009

    The condition that you explain indicates a bad connection

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You mean by batteries act low,is when you try to start the vehicle it wont turn over normally,i dont understand the part that you say it starts fine after the batteries are disconnected,it sounds to me like the starter has a ''flat spot' on the inside of it, check the batteries for 12.8 volts at engine off, then turn on headlites and turn key as if to start engine and see if they dim during trying to start engine,either you have a very HIGH RESISTANCE connection(i.e. Corroded or rusred to the frame) somewhere in the start circuit, or a bad battery or starter motor possibly brushes inside starter

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and"http://www.aa1car.com/library/compression.htm". Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or "http://www.aa1car.com/library/crank_sensors.htm".
A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
If a Hall effect crank sensor has power and ground, the next thing to check would be its output. With nothing in the sensor window, the sensor should be "on" and read 5 volts (VRef). Measure the sensor D.C. output voltage between the sensor signal output wire and ground (use the engine block again, not the ground wire). When the engine is cranked, the sensor output should drop to zero every time the shutter blade, notch, magnetic button or gear tooth passes through the sensor. No change in voltage would indicate a bad sensor that needs to be replaced.
If the primary side of the ignition system seems to be producing a trigger signal for the coil but the voltage is not reaching the plugs, a visual inspection of the coil tower, distributor cap, rotor and plug wires should be made to identify any defects that might be preventing the spark from reaching its intended destination.
ENGINE CRANKS AND HAS SPARK BUT WILL NOT START
If you see a good hot spark when you crank the engine, but it won't start, check for fuel. The problem might be a"http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_pump_diagnose.htm".
On an older engine with a "http://www.aa1car.com/library/carburetor.htm", pump the throttle linkage and look for fuel squirting into the carburetor throat. No fuel? Possible causes include a"http://www.aa1car.com/library/fuel_pump_mechanical.htm", stuck needle valve in the carburetor, a plugged fuel line or fuel filter.
On newer vehicles with electronic fuel injection, connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail to see if there is any pressure in the line. No pressure when the key is on? Check for a failed fuel pump, pump relay, fuse or wiring problem. On Fords, don't forget to check the inertia safety switch which is usually hidden in the trunk or under a rear kick panel. The switch shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. So if the switch has been tripped, resetting it should restore the flow of fuel to the engine. Lack of fuel can also be caused by obstructions in the fuel line or pickup sock inside the tank. And don't forget to check the fuel gauge. It is amazing how many no starts are caused by an empty fuel tank.
There is also the possibility that the fuel in the tank may be heavily contaminated with water or overloaded with alcohol. If the tank was just filled, "http://www.aa1car.com/library/us10325.htm"might be causing the problem.
On EFI-equipped engines, fuel pressure in the line does not necessarily mean the fuel is being injected into the engine. Listen for clicking or buzzing that would indicate the injectors are working. No noise? Check for voltage and ground at the injectors. A defective ECM may not be driving the injectors, or the EFI power supply relay may have called it quits. Some EFI-systems rely on input from the camshaft position sensor to generate the injector pulses. Loss of this signal could prevent the system from functioning.
Even if there is fuel and it is being delivered to the engine, a massive"http://www.aa1car.com/library/vacleak.htm"could be preventing the engine from starting. A large enough vacuum leak will lean out the air/fuel ratio to such an extent that the mixture won't ignite. An EGR valve that is stuck wide open, a disconnected PCV hose, loose vacuum hose for the power brake booster, or similar leak could be the culprit. Check all vacuum connections and listen for unusual sucking noises while cranking.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution if helped.thank you for using fixya.

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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I got a 2001 chevy/silverodo c1500 new battery month old it was all fine i got in to start it an it all but it won't turn over it won't make a noise nothing from starter the fuses r all good


Do you have a volt meter ? How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Here is a site for wiring diagram http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter your vehicle info.Year, make , model , an engine size. Then under system click on engine , then under sub system click on charging system (starter system is also under that ) Then click the search button , then click on the blue link . You can issolate the starter circuit at the starter relay in the under hood fuse box , to see which side of the circuit is bad , control or the load (starter) side . If you pull the relay out of the fuse/relay box an look on the bottom you will see four numbers 86, 85 & 30 ,87 .If you were to take a piece of 12 gage wire an jump where 30 & 87 plug into the fuse / relay box . And if the starter spins the engine over you just eliminated the starter , battery cables , ground circuit as not being the problem . This would indicate that something on the control side was bad , Park neutral safety switch , ignition switch . But before replacing parts some electrical testing should be done . Hope this helps an if you have an questions let us know .

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Will not start how intermittently ? The engine won't turn over or engine does turn but won't start . Starter relay , lose connection . Checking power an grounds would be the first place to start , voltage drop test the main electrical circuits . Voltage Drop Testing the Starter

The starter circuit control is achieved by the starter motor relay ! It is located in the under hood fuse/ relay box or as Chrysler calls it ,integrated power module ! If you pull out the relay an look on the bottom where the pins stick out you will see four sets of numbers .30,87 an 85,86 ! 30 is B+ voltage . 87 is to the starter solenoid . If you jumped those two spots where the relay plugs into the starter would crank the engine over . The last two 85 an 86 are the control side .If you checked with a volt meter where 86 plugged into ,with key on it would show B+ voltage . The last pin is from the PCM - engine computer . When turning the key to start a signal is sent to the PCM to let it know crank has been requested , in return the PCM supplies a ground to pin 85 energizing the starter motor relay sending B+ voltage to the starter motor cranking over the engine . Here is another video on test from the relay base (where relay plugs into ) This is for a horn circuit but same thing . VEHICLE RELAYS Testing from the relay base The relay could be going bad , you never know .Replacing the relay mite not be a bad idea . Good luck , hope this helps !

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Late response but... If the starter relay clicks when you turn the ignition then the issue is ENGINE side of fuse box. It is not anything to do with anti theft systems/computers/ECU’s/BCU’s/MAF or anything else. All these things kick in before the starter relay, if the starter relay does not click then it could be a faulty relay so try swapping that first. If it still won’t click then the issue is ignition side of fuse box and I’m afraid it could be any of the things above.
OK if the relay is clicking then the ignition is telling the car to start and the issue must be either that there is no signal getting to the starter motor solenoid or that the starter motor is not working. On most mazdas of this generation the wire that sends 12v from the relay to the starter motor solenoid is suspect. The wire is red and slightly thicker than the others that leave the fuse box, it attaches to the solenoid on the starter motor via a spade connection. The connection is often loose and corroded and a simple clean up with abrasive paper and a tightening by gently squeezing the female connector with pliers before refitting will solve the issue.
I have seen people replace starter motors and batteries for no reason when cleaning the connector would have solved the problem for free. A new battery sometimes cures the issue for a while (more charge so jumps through the corrosion better than the old battery) but the issue returns because ITS NOT THE BATTERY!!
My Mazda 5 did this for months, start fine for a week then not start for days, start in the morning then not at night. Two garages and an auto electrician couldn’t work out what was wrong - I traced the wiring and bingo! loose wire.
I unplugged the wiring harness from the fuse box too, sprayed plenty of electrical contact cleaner in there and left it to dry. Anyway that’s was about a year ago and mine has started every time since, hot or cold, short or long journey.
In case you need to know - fuse box is the black plastic rectangle under the bonnet on your right side (as you face the car from the front) - top unclips to reveal relays and wiring harness connector (big bunch of wires that can be unclipped and pulled free)
Starter motor accessed from below it is bolted to the front of engine with the solenoid and suspect wire connector on the top of the main starter.
Good luck ??

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PNP park neutral safety switch . Try moving gear selector to neutral . If it starts the switch is bad .
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