Have changed my timing belt and got the same problem.
After the timing belt job done, my car started very bad several times check engine light went on and engine stall. Light came of for every next attempt and on every time it started. But now it does not start anymore, everything is dead and i cant find anything bad.
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try resetting the CPU program because periods with the battery disconnected corrupts the program which has the immobiliser program in it as well. Use a scanner for this job as removing and re fitting the cable only does half a job and probably will not fix the area that is needed.
The Ford Escort ZX2, the 2.0 liter is a interference engine,The valve and the piston kissed each other as they met with a broken timing belt,Just to let you know a cam position sensor does not create rough idle, it can stall the engine at a stop sign,but the solution is a valve job, and who ever put the timing belt on after the job should have done a cylinder effeciency test.
Changing a timing belt is a job that is better left to the professionals. On some engines if it is not done properly severe engine damage can result. Damage such as bent valves, broken pistons etc. Seriously if you are here on Fixya asking about timing belt replacement you probably do not have the mechanical expertise to properly do the job. In addition on some vehicles special tools are required for disassembly and assembly.
No repair should only last three weeks...don't touch anything and have the shop that did the work come and get it. I have lots of ideas but it will need to be checked over to verify them. Rather than comment on the "maybe" of this, have them check it out. Any reputable shop will be more than willing to do what's needed...Bad jobs ruin that reputation!
It's not the easiest belt to do, I think it has the grenade style hydraulic tensioner, which is not a big deal if you know how to reload them, but if he's done timing belts before, it should all go OK if he takes his time. If you need info on the tensioner or anything else, just let me know. I would suggest registering the car for free at autozone, I'm pretty sure they have a manual for this job/car available. Also, check ebay for parts, some sellers have timing belt kits that include pumps....very cheap!
This is a serious repair job (I've done it several times) and a real
beast for the typical driveway mechanic. It's nothing like the
simplicity of a fan or alternator belt. It's inside the engine!
A $50 part and 10 hrs of labor. A sure way to kill a weekend (if everything goes well)
The front engine cover, housing the waterpump, etc must come off (usually the radiator, etc is in the way)
The relationship between the position of the crankshaft and camshaft is
critical (these 2 major rotating parts are connected by the toothed
timing belt. One notch off during re-assembly and the car will never
run right if it even starts.
Buy a good shop manual (factory is best but aftermarket is OK) and examine the steps before deciding to take on this tough job.
This isn't too bad a job as timing belts and water pumps go, but then I've done so many timing belts and water pumps on so many different vehicles its all just a blur now!!
It is always recommended that if you release the tension from an old timing belt then you should fit a new belt and discard the old one.
I would also urge you not just to fit a timing belt. Buy a whole belt kit. You should change everything the belt touches which runs on a bearing, and apart from the water pump, it will all be included in the belt kit. The water pump is purchased seperately.
If any of the bearing-run components pack up then it will be just as devastating to the engine as a broken timing belt, because the timing will jump several teeth and valves and pistons will collide. The belt may even sheer or snap.
It is for this reason that if I ever get a call out for a routine timing belt change, I always advise the full kit, and the water pump.
It may sound a bit expensive to be replacing items that may not require changing, but if you think its only once every six years or so then its not that bad.
It is also very important to observe the torque settings for the center bolts of any pulley wheels (idlers and tensioner). If you whack them up too tight then the applied forces from the timing belt, instead of being dissipated through the bolt and into the engine, will instead act upon the bolt and it will eventually snap.
The fact that you ask the question indicates you do not have the expertise to do this. Severe damage can be done to the engine if this is done incorrectly. Find a good trustworthy mechanic and pay the expert to do this job.