To replace the fan clutch you need to remove the radiator hose which will spill some coolant (redish in color). This coolant is mixed with small amount of oil, this mean the oil in the coolant is normal. After fan replacement, re fill the radiator with coolant.
Regarding the camshaft phaser or camshaft position sensor solenoid, if the oil leak is due to the O-ring gasket you only need to repalce the gasket. If the oil leak seeps through the copper connectors then you need to replace camshaft phaser.
I think this should be left to the dealership i changed the water pump and to get it out i had to remove the fan clutch and you have to tak apart the whole front grill and radiator but do not remove the tranny lines i did this and may need to get my tranny lookes at now becuase the stupid little reataining clips on the tranny lines popped off but after lossing all tranny fluid a few mile from home i refilled it and now the envoy tranny slips whatever you do not remove the tranny lines. it may damage selonoid in tranny or trip the cars computer so i was quated 700 bucks for new water pump plus labor i should have had the dealership do it i may need to pay for a tranny now :( cuase i was to stubborn and wanted to do it myself.
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The thermostat is a possibility. If it is not opening to its fully open position when the coolant reaches normal operating temperature, then it could cause the engine to overheat. Probably something that should have been changed along with the water pump. You mention several good possibilities. The important question is does it require adding coolant? Or have you driven it enough to tell yet? Only two ways it would require additional coolant: either it is leaking or it is boiling away. The best way to check for leaks is with a pressure test. There are many places where the coolant can leak internally in the engine or externally, and none are good. Check your oil dipstick for coolant mixing with the oil, a sure sign of head gasket or intake manifold gasket failure.
The sensors could be seen on a scan tool capable of showing live stream data, and should quickly show if they are operating normally or are out of range. Sorry I don't have an answer on how to test the fan clutch-it may be a simple test, too. I'm pretty sure the fan blades should be free wheeling, with the engine off, fan not running.
Not sure what you mean by "using a small amount of water." Are you having to refill the coolant? If you are losing coolant, it's either leaking on the ground or leaking into the combustion chamber. Either one of these will cause overheating.
Sorry to say, but these are classic symptoms of a failed head gasket. Those bubbles are probably exhaust. Check the oil as well, coolant could be leaking into it. There are test strips that can verify this by dipping the coolant.
250 DEGREES ENGINE GETTING TOO HOT.SOUND LIKE CLUTCH FAN FREEWHEEL.IF CLUTCH FAN DONT LOCK IN OR HAVE RESISTANCE TURNING BY HAND WHEN ENGINE HOT.FAN CLUTCH IS BAD.IF FAN CLUTCH OKAY COOLANT LEVEL CORRECT.I WOULD CHANGE THERMOSTAT FLUSH OUT ENGINE AND RADIATOR.IF ENGINE TEMPERATURE STILL READS 250 DEGREES OVER FLOW JUG OR RESERVOIR NOT BOILING OVER THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR FAULTY.
250 TOO HOT FOR ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION. SOUND LIKE COOLING FAN CLUTCH BAD ITS FREEWHEELING NOT LOCKING UP TO DIRECT DRIVE TOO COOL ENGINE OFF BECAUSE THE FAN CLUTCH THERMOSTAT NOT WORKING THE HOT SILICONE OIL CAUSE IT TO EXPAND TO PUT RESISTANCE ON CLUTCH TO PUT DRAG ON FAN CLUTCH CAUSING IT TO LOCK IN GIVE IT DIRECT DRIVE.I WOULD STILL REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IF TEMPERATURE STILL 250 DEGREES YOUR RADIATOR AND COOLANT SYSTEM NEED FLUSHING.
I would look at two thing, the fan and the radiator itself. If you have an electric fan, make sure that it is working by connecting it to the battery directly, I would also test the fan relay. An engine driven fan that has a fan clutch may need the fan clutch replaced, it's the disk looking thing mounted on the shaft with the fan.
Assuming those are okay then you want to look at the radiator itself. It may be clogged internally and need a good flushing out or it can be clogged externally buy road gunk clogging up the fins, you can usually wash that out from the engine side with a garden hose sprayer but you'll probably have to remove it to do a good job
You also want to look for any signs of leakage. An overheat can be caused when coolant leaks out and the coolant level drops to to low a level to adequately carry heat out of the engine. If you notice the cabin heat gets low when the engine is idling this is an indicator of low coolant. Leakage can occur internally to the engine as well. Burning coolant has a very specific smell if it's leaking past the head gasket into the combustion chamber. If it's leaking into the engine block you'll see what looks like coffee and cream colored sludge in the oil, sometimes on the dipstick, or brownish coolant in the radiator.
I would also check the radiator cap for pressure leaks. The pressure raises the boiling temperature of the coolant to well above normal operating temperature. If it's leaking then coolant could be boiling away while you drive until it gets low enough to over heat, your nose will tell you if this is the case, you should never smell hot coolant under normal circumstances. The cap should be replaced every three months anyway.
your owners manual will tell you exactly. usually all filters should be changed (oil, air, auto transmission if equipped, fuel, cabin air etc) as well as spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor if equipped, check the belts and hoses as well as the charging system. All fluid levels should be checked and topped off. Check your tire p.s.i. as well.