Question about 1992 Honda Accord

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Like I asked earlier change everything around distributor. coil, plugs, wires, ignition module, twice and still no spark. checked the spark from coil through main wire nothing. could it be distributor itself

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Could be the pick up coil inside the distributor which would basically be the distiriubtor if you have not changed that at this point

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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4 Answers

Why does 99 honda cive ex have no ignition spark?


There is no definitive test for it the ICM, or igniter. If you are positive that the coil is good and it has power at the black/yellow wire, confirm that it is hot at the igniter. Make sure all 4 connecters on the igniter are tight, they should not pull off easily. With the cap off, you should check for spark directly from the coil to ground. Rotors fail too. If everything checks out, and still no spark, the next step is replacing the igniter. Check prices at Honda, sometimes they are the same or cheaper than aftermarket.

Nov 02, 2014 | 1999 Honda Civic

1 Answer

96 nissan altima gxe runs good until it gets hot then stalls


I've been there.... A nightmare!!!

Your prolem sounds as the classical Hot Coil problem with no solution. Next time when engine stalls, check for spark, touch the coil and the ignition module. If they feel hot to the touch (can't hold it), chances are there is too much resistance in the High Tension side of the ignintion circuit.
This means the circuit from the coil to the spark plugs has too much resistance. Since you already changed everything I have to ask a question: Is everything as original specs??

When I had this problem it resulted that the gap between the terminals of the distributor cap (new) and rotor where to big, This created great resistance which heated the coil and quit sending spark.

Perhaps there is something in the High Tension circuit which is out of original specs. Is the gap in spark plugs correct?
Try an old distibutor cap. Do the metal contacts in the spark plug cables touch the metal of the spark plug contact?
Does the metal contact from the cable touch the metal from the coil's contact? Are they dry?

Check things which can create a gap where electriciy has to "jump" to complete its way to the spark plug. These are the ones which cause the hot coil and hot module trouble.

Nov 12, 2013 | Nissan Altima Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Ignition mystery! 1994 GMC Suburban 2500 5.7 mtr. No spark to spark plugs. Have spark from coil to distributor. Have changed coil wire, cap, rotor, ignition module, and coil. have 12.5 volts going to...


I guess you could have the ignition analyzed on an oscilloscope. Maybe a tech could see something then.
I always heard the only gap was the spark plug gap-the rotor has no gap-are you sure you got the correct rotor? And does it touch the top distributor cap coil wire tower?

Let us know. It is a mystery worthy of a solution.

Sep 21, 2013 | Chevrolet Suburban 2500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Trying to figure out what the name of a part is


That would be the ignition coil, the part that creates spark at the spark plug. If you follow the electrical path from the coil wire to the distributor cap, and from there, the spinning rotor just under the distributor cap carries the path from the coil wire at the cap's center to the spark plug wires around the dist. cap, and through the plug wire to the spark plug.
The high voltage causing the spark is created in the ignition coil by the engine computer at the precise right moment signaling an ignition module to cut 12 volts current to the ignition coil. This causes the coil to internally build up high voltage which is passed through the coil to distributor cap wire. The computer knows the precise right moment to initiate spark from engine sensors, primarily the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.

Nov 06, 2012 | 1999 Dodge Durango

2 Answers

No spark from spark plug wires I think it may be the distributor cap or interior parts under cap like rotor and condensor but dont want to change parts thats are fine i replaced the plugs but still no...


There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)
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Jul 30, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

2 Answers

No spark


There's no emergence switch, if there was it would only be for fuel and not spark, there four thing to get spark,
ignition control module, ignition coil, distributor pick up assembly and spark plug wire's check for spark at coil, more then likely it's going to be your distributor pick up assembly, the pick up sit in side your ignition distributor, replace it and it will start, hope this was very helpful.

May 19, 2010 | 1985 Ford F 250

2 Answers

1990 Isuzu 2.6 L 5 spd. No start.. Fuel pressure is ok, not getting spark. Checked coil, ignition module, distributor, computer and coil wire. No power coming from the coil. Small voltage going into...


assuming you the coil, plugs, cap, rotor and wires are good. check the cam sensor, If you have 12 volts to the coil using a 12v light tester. The cam sensor responsible for sending info to the computer telling it that the cam is turning, then the computer tell the coil to dispurse the charge/sparks to the distributor as distributor distribute the sparks to each plugs from the rotor of the distributor. Replace the cam sensor, it tend to go bad over period of time.

Dec 23, 2009 | 1990 Isuzu Spacecab

1 Answer

1997 jeep cherokee 4l will not start on petrol or lpg


Here are a couple of things that could be causing your problem. 1. Bad ignition coil or ignition module 2. Clogged fuel filter 3. Clogged air filter 4. Clogged fuel injectors 5. Bad spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and /or rotor. 6. Broken timing chain/belt. Here are a few things you can try to verify that you have a good spark. 1. Remove the distributor cap and crank the car. If the rotor turned you're ok. If it doesn't turn then that's you're problem and you will probably need to change a timing belt/chain. 2. Check the spark from the ignition coil by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor. Use an alligator clip to attach a short wire to the coil wire contact. Bare the other end of this short wire and set it up so it's sitting very close to the engine block. Turn off the lights and try to start the car. You should see a spark jump from this wire to the block. If you don't see a spark it's likely your ignition module or ignition coil is bad. 3. If you have a spark maybe it's not getting to the plugs. You may need to replace the distributor cap and rotor. You can test if the plugs are sparking by pulling one, re-attaching the spark plug wire and seeing if you get a spark when you try to start the engine in the dark. Please note, the metal threads of the spark plug need to be shorted to the engine block to complete the circuit during this test.

Jun 06, 2009 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee

2 Answers

No spark, just put in a new coil, distrbutor isnt dirty or wet, sombody told to check out the littl box's on the fender well, what are these to box's and what is there purpose? Mike 77 cj-5 304 3spd I...


I had the same problem with my 85 cj7 this week, I relpaced the ignition control module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and the the coil; still had no fire to plugs. the problem turned out to be my distributor, replaced it today and she fired right up. Most likely it was the pick up module in the distributor that went bad.

Nov 30, 2008 | 1983 Jeep CJ7

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