Question about 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Im installing the drivers side window regulator. The cotter pins won't go over the studs. How do i get the cotter pins on?

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I normally use needle nose pliers or a flat blade screwdriver to help push them in, you also might have to adjust the window up and down to make sure they can slide in freely, good luck

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

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My 2007 vw eos drivers window won.t close,all others works fine


Could be the master switch because the drivers window is mostly used, or the window motor/regulator. same reason. Easy to check with a volt/ohm meter. You'll need wiring/pin outs for electrical.

Sep 01, 2016 | 2007 Volkswagen Eos 2.0T

1 Answer

On my 2001chevy blazer the driver side window won't go down how do I fix it


REMOVAL PROCEDURE:
Remove the window.
  • Disconnect the power window motor electrical connector, if equipped.
  • Remove the electrical harness retainers, if equipped.
  • Drill out the rivets that secure the window regulator to the door.
  • Remove the window regulator from the door.
  • Remove the power window motor, if equipped.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE:
  • Install the power window motor, if equipped.
  • Install the window regulator to the door.
  • Install the rivets that secure the window regulator to the door using J 34940.
  • Connect the electrical connector, if equipped.
  • Connect the electrical harness retainers, if equipped.
  • Install the window.

Jul 18, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need torque scecs for control arm


1) Install or connect the following:
  • Lower control arm
  • Control arm bolts and nuts
  • Ball stud to the knuckle
  • Ball stud castle nut, tighten the ball stud castle nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm), plus 135 degrees

Note: Do NOT loosen the ball stud nut in order to align the ball stud nut slots to the ball stud cotter pin hole. If necessary, tighten the ball stud castle nut in order to align the ball stud castle nut slot to the ball stud cotter pin hole. Ensure that the cotter pin ends do NOT contact the ABS wheel speed sensor, the ABS sensor connector or the drive axle.
  • NEW cotter pin and bend the ends
  • Stabilizer shaft link
  • ABS wheel speed sensor jumper harness to the harness retainer clips
  • ABS wheel speed sensor connector
    • Lower control arm nuts, tighten the lower control arm nuts to 71 ft. lbs. (96 Nm)
    • From Chevrolet web site.

Jan 30, 2013 | 2005 Chevrolet Uplander

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

I need to replace my ball joints. can you give me some tips on how to do this? I have never done this before and i would appreciate some pointers on what i need to do to get the job done. Thank you very...


UPPER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the truck with jackstands. Remove wheel.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud and loosen, but do not remove the stud nut.
  4. Using a forcing-type ball joint separator tool, loosen the ball stud in the steering knuckle. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and the stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
  5. On R-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit. Remove the ball joint assembly.
  6. On C-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit to start a pilot hole. Drill out the rivets with a 1 / 2 in. bit. Remove the ball joint assembly using a screw-type forcing tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  2. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut as follows:

    1 / 2 ton trucks: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), plus the additional torque to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) and never back the nut off to align the pin. 3 / 4 and 1 ton trucks: 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm), plus additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) and never back off the nut to align the pin.
  3. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts as follows:

    1988-90 models, tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) for the 15 and 25 Series and 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 35 the Series. 1991-98 models, tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  4. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 90 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988-90 models, 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
  5. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.
LOWER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the wheel.
  4. Remove the lower stud cotter pin and loosen, but do not remove, the stud nut.



0900c1528008f64b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the lower ball joint using a suitable tool-R-Series shown, C-series similar


0900c1528008f64c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: Use an appropriate tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle-R and C-Series


0900c1528008f64d.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 4: Installing the lower ball joint-R and C-Series
  1. Loosen the ball joint with a forcing-type ball joint tool. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain enough clearance.
  2. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and ball stud nut.
  3. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
  4. Pull the brake disc and knuckle assembly up and off the ball stud and support the upper arm with a block of wood.
  5. Remove the ball joint from the control arm with a ball joint fork or another suitable tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, start the new ball joint into the control arm. Position the bleed vent in the rubber boot facing inward.
  2. On C-series vehicles, force the ball joint into position using a screw-type forcing tool. The ball joint will bottom in the control arm. The grease seal should face inboard.
  3. On R-series vehicles, turn the screw until the ball joint is seated in the control arm.
  4. Lower the upper arm and match the steering knuckle to the lower ball stud.
  5. On C-series vehicles, start ball stud into the knuckle. Install the nut and tighten it to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-94 models and 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm) on 1995-98 models. Advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole and insert the new cotter pin. NEVER back off the nut to align the cotter pin hole; always advance it!
  6. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 80-100 ft. lbs. (108-135 Nm), plus the additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin hole. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) or back the nut off to align the holes with the pin.
  7. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.

Jan 15, 2010 | 1996 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Any info on changing a brake booster on a 1996 Sierra and also help trouble shooting a master cy. Thanxlinder


a defective master has just one common symptom, a soft sinking pedal.
Instructions Things You'll Need:
  • Nose pliers
  • Ratchet and socket
  • Ratchet extension
  • Slip joint pliers
  • Wrench
  • New cotter pin
    Removing the Old Brake Booster
  1. Step 1 Park your car in a safe place with enough room to work around the front and driver side of the vehicle.
  2. Step 2 Locate the booster push rod connected to the brake pedal.
  3. Step 3 Remove the cotter pin securing the booster push rod pin to the brake pedal using a pair of nose pliers.
  4. Step 4 Release the push rod pin from the brake pedal and slide the push rod off the brake pedal.
  5. Step 5 Unscrew the four mounting nuts off the brake booster studs using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. You should be able to see the four booster studs extending through the firewall, in front of the brake pedal.
  6. Step 6 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster, working from the engine compartment. Use a pair of slip joint pliers.
  7. Step 7 Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
  8. Step 8 Separate the brake master cylinder from the booster just enough to make room for booster removal.
  9. Step 9 Pull the brake booster off the firewall and remove it from the vehicle.
    Installing the New Brake Booster
  10. Step 1 Set the new booster in place by sliding the push rod and four mounting studs through the mounting holes on the firewall.
  11. Step 2 Slide the brake master cylinder flange over the two mounting studs on the brake booster.
  12. Step 3 Start the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts by hand to avoid damage to the threads.
  13. Step 4 Tighten the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts using a wrench or ratchet and socket.
  14. Step 5 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
  15. Step 6 Screw the four mounting nuts to the brake booster working from inside the vehicle. Start the nuts by hand to avoid damaging the threads.
  16. Step 7 Tighten the four mounting nuts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
  17. Step 8 Position the brake booster push rod over the brake pedal and slide the push rod pin.
  18. Step 9 Install a new cotter pin to secure the booster push rod to the brake pedal

Nov 20, 2009 | 1996 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Outer tie rod passenger side replacement. I need directions for removal and instalation of the passenger side outer tie rod in a 99' olds alero.


Ok, well first thing you need to do is remove the wheel. Jack up the vehicle at a good jack point. Remove the wheel, then check for the location of the tie rod end. Most are to the left of the brake rotor. If this is the case, turn the steering wheel to the left, so the tie rod end is extended. Then, remove the cotter pin that slides through the little stud and nut. With that pin out, you can use a socket, most are either a 15 mm through 18 mm, to remove the nut. Don't remove it totally yet. Then, behind the outer tie rod end, there is another small nut that spins on the inner tie rod end, which the outer screws on to. You must loosen that nut first. The direction of the nut is clockwise to remove it. Once it is loose, you can remove the nut from the small stud. Then, you should see a striking point on the spindle, which is what the stud goes through. You will need a hammer, and strike it good to loosen the stud. Once the stud is loose, it should pop out, and then all you have to do is unscrew the outer tie rod end. Make sure to count the 360 degree spins, so your alignment isn't horribly out when you put the new one on. Now, to put the new one on, screw the new one on the exact amount of times that you counted coming off. Then, put the stud back into the hole in the spindle. Put the nut back on an tighten it. When it is tight, look at the nut and stud and make sure you have the hole in the stud unblocked by a part of the nut. If it is not blocked, put the cotter pin, should be a new one, into the hole and seperate the ends and wrap around the nut. This prevents the nut from backing itself out. Then go to the nut on the inner tie rod end and make sure it sits flush with the new outer tie rod end, then tighten. Then go ahead and straighten the steering wheel and put the wheel back on. ***Recommendation: get an alignment done after***

Oct 17, 2009 | 1999 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

98 escort. How do you remove the front passenger side hub to replace a wheel stud? Does the hub nut have a cotter pin in it?


IF NO CLEARANCE TO INSTALL NEW STUD THAN YOU WILL HAVE TO REMOVE HALFSHAFT FROM HUB AND KNUCKLE TO PRESS OUT HUB FLANGE,SHOULD BE ABLE TO SNAKE IT IN THERE. WATCH TO NOT DAMAGE BEARING,SUPPORT IT OR IT WILL SEPERATE WHEN PRESSING ON FLANGE OR HUB

Jul 13, 2009 | 1998 Ford Escort

1 Answer

1990 Sentra How it remove and replace lug studs on front wheel


there is a large nut that holds that hub on. Remove the cotter pin and the cap from the bolt... remove the bolt and the hub comes off.

Robert

Feb 27, 2009 | 1990 Nissan Sentra

1 Answer

Tie rod inner or outter/how to install


here is word for word what the manual says:

REMOVAL:
1. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the side to be dismanteld. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands. CAUTION: If the vehicle is equipped with Automatic Ride Control (ARC), make sure the air suspention switch is turned to the OFF position before the vehicle is riased to prevent damage to the system components.

2. Remove the front wheel.

3. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end stud. Discard the cotter pin.

4. Disconnect the tie-rod end fron the steering spindel with a Pitman arm puller.

5. Loosen the tie-rod end jam nut and back it off several turns.

6. Apply a paint mark to the theads adjacent to the adjusting sleeve or tie-rod end. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod.

INSTALLATION:
7. Install the tie-rod end into the adjusting sleeve or connecting rod. Thread the tie-rob end in until the marks made on step 6 align.

8. Install the tie-rod end to the spindle. Make sure the front wheels and steering wheel are in the stright ahead position. Make sure the tie-rod stud is seated in the taper to prevent it from turing while tightening the nut.

9. Install the new nut on the stud and tighent it to the proper torque (45-60 ft-lbs). Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends over completely.

10. Tighten the tie-rod adjusting sleever clap bolts or jam nut to 50-68 ft-lbs. Make sure the tie-rod is posistioned correctly in the same posistion it was in before it was removed.

11. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

12. get the front end aligned.

Aug 10, 2008 | 2000 Ford Explorer

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