Question about 1996 Oldsmobile Achieva

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The car starts and runs for about 3or4 seconds then dies. Its got its second new fuel pump, ignition module, and a new ignition switch. Please help me out before i pull the last of my hair out. Ive also checked all fuses and grounds. thanks

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Are you sure you checked all Grounds ? Did you check the computer ground off your main harness, two black terminal to Engine block ground bolt ? Clean them up and your problem is solved

Posted on Aug 22, 2010

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If it is injection clean your injectors i had it on my jaguiar the same

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

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How do I by pass the security system on an oldsmobile achieva

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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My 1985 F250 starts then dies after a few seconds of running. I put on a brand new ignition control module, and that wasnt it. I also replaced the ignition coil, ignition coil cap, and Bought a bran


By your description it sounds like you have carburetor issues, Possible clogged metering jets , a float problem , throttle adjustment or even possibly a major vacuum leak.

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I would check the EEC relay, and the fuel pump relay too. But it sounds like the ignition module is loosing power, or the pump is not getting power after the engine starts.
The computer must see oil pressure or RPM to power the pump relay after the engine starts.

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WHEN TROUBLE SHOOT CAR CHECK FOR SPARK AT PLUGS FIRST IF NO.CHECK IGNITION FUSE TO IGNITION COIL OR COILS AND IGNITION MODULE.IF FUSE GOOD CAR NEED SCANNING FOR CRANKSHAFT SENSOR FAULT OR IGNITION MODULE FAULT.IF IGNITION SYSTEM OKAY CHANGE FUEL FILTER IF NOT BEEN CHANGED LONG TIME..CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HEAR FUEL PUMP RUN IN FUEL TANK WHEN YOU TURN IGNITION KEY ON FOR 3 SECONDS.THE FUEL PUMP WILL TURN ON 3 SECONDS THEN TURN OFF.IF YOU HEAR NO FUEL PUMP.CHECK FUSE AND RELAY.IF BOTH GOOD.STILL HAVE CAR CODE SCANNED FIRST.

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Got a 92 s10 blazer 4.3L vin w. Cant seem to find a diagnostic machine that can read a vehicle this old. It has always had a slight miss and recently developed a problem with dieing while in drive at an...


this old its so simple .it has a ignition module and a crank sensor ,with a distributor so it can only be a crank sensor or the ignition module causing problems ,what about a cracked distributor cap ,dodgy rotor arm of the carbon brush in the cap??Thank your stars you dont repair europeon cars ,read a OBDII hahah i stand more chance of going to the moon

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It would seem like a problem with the ECU or the fuel pump, but the common link between those two systems is the ignition module that is located on the distributor under the distributor cap, and that module is actually responsible for the fuel pump signal to run the fuel pump, the dwell signal to cause the ignition coil to fire, and also the signal that the ECU uses to time and fire the injectors, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto parts stores.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

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The two main suspects would be the fuel pump or the ignition module inside of the distributor. You can remove your ignition module from the distributor and have it tested for free at most auto parts stores.

If you install the ignition module (either a new one or the old one), be sure to clean the mounting surface inside of the distributor, and be certain that you completely coat the metal mounting surface of the ignition module with a generous coat of die-electric grease or a die-electric compound. (Do not leave any uncoated contact suface)

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When the ignition switch is turned on the pcm turns on the fuel pump by energizing the fuel pump relay. The PCM keeps the fuel pump on as long as the engine is cranking over or running.It does this by recieving pulses from the ignition module. If there are no referance pulses the PCM will turn the fuel pump relay off in 2 seconds with the ingnition on.

Most models also include a secondary control path through the oil presure switch witch will turn the fuel pump on after it detects oil presure.cranking time will be longer if the fuel pump doesn't recieve current until oil presure switch contact is closed.

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85 with TBI only needs 13lbs of fuel pressure. verify that the fuel filter is clean. there is no easy way to ck fuel pressure, special adapters are needed, I dont have info here at home but there should be a relay for the pump, on the firewall and the oil pressure switch also powers the pump. did you replace the pump trying to fix this problem or did you just mention it to help troubleshoot the problem? verify that the fuel pump wiring has a good ground, should have been a eyelet that bolted to the frame..when you initially turn the key on, you should hera the fuel pump power up for 2 seconds, then go off, after the engine starts, the power for the pump goes through the oil pressure switch.

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