No spark on 92 honda accord put on ecm still no spark. Check black/yellow wire with coil on and get power, but when checking from ecm to coil no light on my tester.

Check your maxi fuses in the under hood fuse/relay box. The black/yellow wire to the coil is directly from the ignition switch-it should be hot in run.
Fuse # 15 is an 80 amp fuse, and fuse #19 is a 50 amp fuse. Both of these supply the ignition switch with power.

Hi, first verify that you have battery voltage on the yellow wire at the sensor when the key is on. Measure across to the black wire to ensure the ground is there as well. The signal leaves the sensor on the blue wire but changes to orange before it reaches the cruise control module, ECM and cluster. I would check continuity of the blue wire to orange wire at the cruise module and cluster. If all that is good, I would pull the sensor off the transmission, jack up the drive wheels, and verify the transmission is turning the shaft that is supposed to turn the sensor coil. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

The ecm receives a signal from the crankshaft position sensor and sends timing signals to the ignition control module, whick fires the coil. The problem can be the crank sensor or the control module. The crank sensor is inside the distributor. I have pasted a test procedure below to help you troubleshoot.
1994-95 ACCORD EXCEPT V-6
See Figures 8 and 9
Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the inner cover.Disconnect the wires from the igniter.Check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter.


Fig. Fig. 8: Terminal identification on engines without VTEC
Check for voltage between the green wire ("BLU 2" on VTEC) and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the ignition coil and the green ("BLU 2" on VTEC) wire between the ignition coil and the igniter.


Fig. Fig. 9: Terminal identification on VTEC engines
Turn the ignition switch OFF .Check the yellow/green wire between the engine control module and the igniter for continuity. Then check the BLU 1 wire between the tachometer and the igniter for continuity.If the wiring is OK and a problem still exists, the igniter is probably at fault.
Vtec engine



Non -vtec engine

was there oil in the dist cap if so replace distriptor and try again

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6223989-ignition_coil_doesn_t_spark . These are generic instructions--specific instructions are pasted below from Autozone.com. If you get stuck, please get back to me.

Use a test light to check for power to the coil on the black wire with a yellow stripe--see procedure below and other tests you can run. You will need a volt-ohm meter to run most of these tests.

The system used on 1990-95 Accords and 1989-95 fuel injected Preludes uses the distributor components to signal the engine computer. The ECU triggers the spark through the igniter unit and coil. This spark timing is controlled by the computer as an integrated function of the fuel management system. The distributor contains a crankshaft angle sensor and a No. 1 Cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor. Using these and other electrical inputs, the computer controls spark timing electrically.

1990-91 ACCORD
See Figure 6

1. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and shield.
2. Label and disconnect the 4 wires from the igniter unit.
3. Switch the ignition ON . Use a voltmeter to check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present. If the voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the igniter and the ignition switch.
4. Check for voltage between the white/blue wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the white/blue wire from the igniter to the coil and test the ignition coil.
5. Turn the ignition OFF . Check for continuity in the yellow/green wire between the igniter and the ECU.

Fig. Fig. 6: Terminal identification on 1990-91 Accords

1. Check the blue wire for continuity between the tachometer and the igniter.
2. Check the resistance between the terminals which connect to the blue and white/yellow wires. It should be between 1,100-3,300 ohms. If not, the igniter must be replaced.

Coil test:
1990-91 ACCORD

See Figure 16

1. The ignition coil is contained within the distributor. With the ignition OFF , remove the distributor cap.
2. Remove the screws securing the black/yellow wire and white/blue wires from the terminals. The black/yellow wire is connected to the primary positive terminal and the white/blue wire is connected to the primary negative terminal.
3. Measure resistance between the terminals. Resistance should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms.
4. Measure the resistance between the primary positive terminal and the secondary terminal. Resistance should be 12,800-19,200 ohms.

Fig. Fig. 16: Coil terminal designation on 1990-91 Accords

1. All test conditions must be met. If any test condition is not satisfied, the coil must be replaced.

There is an ECM to control the starting and running of the engine but it seldom is the problem.

First you need to isolate if it is mechanical, electrical or fuel that is causing the problem.

Remove the distributor cap and crank the engine, if the rotor turns, we can skip mechanical.

Before checking any electricals, check if there are any blown fuses both under dash and hood.

Check for power supply to distributor Black/Yellow wire with ignition switch on. If there is, pull 1 plug wire out and insert a plug to its end and ground it on the engine, NEVER groud it to the battery terminals.

Crank the engine and if you see blue sparks it is ok, reddish or yellow sparks means the coils is bad.

If no sparks, the ICM is faulty.

Test for power supply to fuel pump at initial ignition switch turned on, (2 seconds only) and while cranking. If none, the main relay is faulty.

Take care

Ok, I had this issue with my BMW. DROVE ME NUTS! I couldn't figure it out, and I bought new plugs, coils, etc to no avail.

Finally I replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the CPS (crank/cam-shaft position sensors) and it started right up like a champ! I guess these go out quite frequently, and the dealer loves to charge a fortune to replace them, even though you can get them on ebay for around 40 bucks each.

Hope this helps! Good luck! :)

sounds to me like a bad rotor, pop the dist. cap off and check the contacts inside

Constant 12V+ White/Yellow
Switched 12V+ Yellow/Red
Ground Black
Illumination Red/Black
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Trigger Yellow/White
Antenna Left Rear
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) Blue/Green
Left Front (-) Gray/Black
Right Front (+) Red/Green
Right Front (-) Brown/Black
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) Blue/Yellow
Left Rear (-) Gray/White
Right Rear (+) Red/Yellow
Right Rear (-) Brown/White

the distributors can go bad on these hondas......... check the rotor under the cap it could be melted causing a no spark.......