Question about 2002 Ford Escape
Car was totally dead with the old battery. (Vehicle sat unused for 3 months). I tried to jump it several times before buying a new battery to install.
Now the power locks only work with key in the ignition, and the radio and interior roof lights do not work. Also when starting up, all gauge needles pinned around the dial before settling down. Otherwise all seems to work fine. Indicator lights, A/C, cruise control, power steering, electronic seat controls, power windows, no problems with starting.
Could jumping it have blown fuses? Or if it is a bad alternator, how long can I drive with it like this?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
ok let me help you get started
this isnt going to be easy we need to do a bunch of testing.
you will need a 12 volt test light.
remove the negitive battery cable and connect one side of your test light to the battery negitive and the other side to the battery cable . and with the key off.. so now if you have a short some where the light should be lit. now what we have to do is start to pull fuses untill the light goes out. and when you find the fuse that is causing your short and drain your battery . then we have to look into the section of the wiring and components.
let me know what you find
Posted on Oct 18, 2008
180 milli-amps is way to much draw,ford's limit is 50 milli-amps but typically we usually only see around 20-30. Now when you say fuse 2 is that in the under-hood fuse panel or the interior fuse panel? And if this vehicle is a 2007 it may still be under factory warranty which was 36 months or 36000 miles providing that the add on automatic starter is not causing your draw.Which in that case the people who installed it should be responsible for that.
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
i've got the same problem. i've taken it to 2 shops, a master mechanic, and visited the dealership [$$$$]. your body control module [bcm] has an issue. it's the computer behind the fuse pannel. you can TRY to update the driver at the local dealership, but that will run you about $100, and there's no guarantee. worst case, you have to buy a new one from the dealership- $300-400 is what i was quoted. don't bother with a junkyard, as the computers are vin specific and you would still have to pay the$100 to 'reflash/reprogram' it.. but doing that only updates the driver, if applicable, and matches the computer's vin with the vin on your car. once these computers are formatted, they can not be 'wiped' or 'rewritten'. you're gonna have to either deal with the accessories not working, or fork out the $ for a new one. sucks, huh?
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
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