Question about 2001 Chevrolet Impala
It's located inside the gas tank. tank must be removed to access it.lower tank,label & remove hoses unplug wires.turn locking ring between plastic pump & tank,remove pump.reverse to assemble.
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
DROP THE FUEL TANK MAKE SURE YOU GO ABOUT HALF WAY THEN UNHOOK ALL THE LINES AND TERMINALS SO AS TO NOT DAMAGE THEM ALSO YOU NEED TO RELEASE THE FUEL PRESSURE AT FUEL RAIL BEFORE REMOVING ANY LINES
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
The wires should be grey, orange and black, purple, and a black wire. The purple goes to purple, grey to gray. The orange and black goes to the small black wire on your car harness and the black goes to the bigger black.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figures 1 and 2)
CAUTION The fuel injection system remains under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
WARNING The modular fuel sender assembly may spring up from its position. When removing the modular fuel sender from the tank, be aware that the reservoir bucket is full of fuel. It must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float.
Gently pull on the fuel pump reservoir from retainer to assure a secure fastening. If not secure, replace the entire fuel sender.
Fig. 1: The module fuel sender assembly is mounted in the fuel tank
Fig. 2: Modular fuel pump component identification
Hope this help to solve your problem (remember comment and rated this).
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
First, if your car still runs, pull the fuel pump relay, and start your car, letting it run until it dies. This will depressurize the fuel system. Then you must support the fuel tank, and take loose the straps that hold it up. Slowly lower the tank until you can unhook the tank filler hose and overflow hose by taking the clamps off and sliding the hoses off. lower it some more, and unhook the fuel lines; they require you to insert a special tool around the edge of the connection, however this can be improvised with screwdrivers or a piece of plastic or metal bent into a C shape. Next unhook the wire connection. Once you get it down, it's easiest to empty as much fuel as you can; as this will help you get it back into place. The fuel pump is inside the tank, which locks into place with a 1/8th turn. You will need a hammer and a brass punch for this job, as it needs to be tapped around to unlock. It will then lift out. Compare the two pump assemblies. The inside parts can be slightly different, but ensure that the fuel lines are IDENTICAL and the wire connection is IDENTICAL. The new one will come with a new silicone seal. Ensure that you don't put the new one in in such a way as the float doesn't bind, otherwise you'll be doing this procedure again if you don't like guessing how much gas you have. This can be a challenge to wrestle with putting the new one in, as you have to push it down to compress the new seal, and turn it to lock it. Once you get it started, you can let up and use the hammer and punch again to tighten it the rest of the way. Next, put it back together just as you took it apart, and don't forget to hook up the wires, hoses, and fuel lines. No tools required for the fuel lines, they just snap together. Once everything's tight and hooked up, put gas back in it, and if you haven't already, put the fuel pump relay back in. This you can do as soon as the car dies, and is completely optional if the car won't run at all. You are now ready to start it up, but turn the ignition on to the run position, wait a few seconds for the pump to pressurize, and then start it. Have fun, and feel free to ask any questions should you have any.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
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