Question about 1997 Ford Explorer AWD

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When I start the engine the RPM's go up and down and sometimes dies untill it warms up. I can't fine a vacuum leak so what else can it be.

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Idle Air control solenoid to a dirty MAF sensor

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

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On cold start up engine revs up to 1500 rpm then down to 500rpm and keeps doing this until it warms up also sometime conks out when revving up and down


a number of possible solutions, including a vacuum leak (check hoses, use a spray throttle body cleaner o9n the intakie manifold looking for leaks), or the Idle air controller is dirty or defective, or the throttle position sensor is bad. Do you have a check engine light?

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1994 chevy with 5.7 L with throttle body inj. when i start it the idle drops down and sometimes dies. when you put it in gear idle drops really bad and sometimes dies. once i'm going down the road the...


Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. When the engine is cold the leak is there but as the engine warms up the parts start to expand thus closing the gaps and sealing the leak. I had this problem on my personal vehicle and it turned out to be lower intake gaskets.

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I would start with cleaning the throttle bore and plate. Then clean the Idle Air Control valve, IAC, as this is the device that controls idle speed. Use a can of spray carb cleaner and an old toothbrush. Trouble with the IAC would make sense if you can keep the engine going by holding down the gas pedal a bit.
Use the carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks at hose connections and elbows. run engine and spray short bursts at hoses and listen for idle speed changes.
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I have a 2002 Mercury Sable w/ 3.0L DOHC. The Fuel Cap light keeps on, yesterday the engine started idleing rough, today it acts like a stuck throttle until the car is stoped and then it acts like it...


You have a vacuum leak some where. Engine uses vacuum to burn gas vapors in gas tank. This is the EVAP SYSTEM. This system can detect a small leak or large leak. (gas cap light.) But there are also other items on the car that use vacuum to do work. The PCV circuit . This vents the engine's crank case. Also power brakes and some ac/heater controls. Now it sound like a good size vacuum leak if car idle is "high". I would say open the hood and listen. When car first starts idle should be around 1500 rpm or so. If you have a tachometer in car. then as it starts to warm up the idle should start to go down. Then listen for a hiss around the center of engine compartment. the black tube and ribs looking thing is your intake where vacuum ports would start. Check line or hoses to see if cracked or broken. Ford/Mercury like to use hard plastic for lines and become brittle after a while and break.

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1.Start by changing plugs and wires. 2.Check for vacuum leaks. With the engine running, wigglr every hose you can see, to make sure nothing is loose or cracked. 3.Change fuel filter. 4.Check timing. 5.Check air control valve. 6.Check idle control sensor.

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When engine is warmed up the car begins hesitating


Do you have a check engine light come on when it has problems? If so I would check anything that relies on closed loop operation to run smooth. You most likely have a sensor not reading properly. The check engine light is a big indicator in this problem.

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Check your vacuum lines, make sure there is no leaks, and go from there, then all you electrical connection in the engine compartment.
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