First starting the car every thing is fine for about thirty seconds,then idle drops,engine light goes on,stalls,start again same thing again ,then to compensate add alittle throttle,it also dies until you hold it to 17oo rpm till it warms up,not to sure to look?
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First thing to do is run a fuel pressure leakdown test. borrow or buy a fuel pressure test gage for you car and hook it to the fuel injection rail test port, then start the engine and shut it off the pressure should not drop by more than 5 PSI, if overnight it drops to near zero PSI you have a failed fuel pump pressure check valve and you need a new fuel pump. Also clean the throttle valve and the idle speed control valve with spray throttle valve cleaner.
If it's surging, make sure your radiator is full. Do a tune up, plugs, wires, etc. Put some fuel injector cleaner in your fuel tank. On a cold start the vehicle compensates for being cold by adding fuel. Once it warms up the computer tells it to quit adding extra fuel. If it is a bad sensor of sorts, check engine light should come on.
This should be a drive by wire vehicle meaning it has a cable for the throttle body. First thing would be to see if any error codes can be pulled up (most parts stores will do that for free.) Drive by wire versus the late model that use electronic control for the idle have a IAC or idle air control which when first started controls the idle air intake--all air is run by it to idle the vehicle when cold--
Usual symptoms are rather high idle when cold engine or even idle and RPM jumping up and down and stalling when cold.
Another way if idle does drop when cold is tapping the gas--engine will still run until hot. Means not usually a fuel pump issue.
You could also have if the vehicle is fuel injected a dirty Mass air flow sensor, a throttle position sensor, etc.
These can be if the vehicle has them cleaned using a special zero residue spray cleaner.
First have it scanned to see what if any errors it shows--the computer.
It may be piston slap. This is caused by either engine wear with the piston bores being too large for the pistons, or by poor manufacturing tolerances, or a combination of both.
To test for this, start the engine up first thing in the morning and run it for about thirty seconds while you listen carefully and memorise the sound and
intensity. Turn the engine off quickly, remove the spark plugs and put two
squirts of motor oil into each cylinder. Reinstall the plugs, start the
engine up again and listen. If you have piston slap the noise will have been greatly reduced or even
eliminated for about thirty seconds seconds and then returns.
The fix is to rebuild or replace the engine, but if it works just fine then don't worry. Many slappy engines keep going for tens of thousands more mile. The fact that your knocking is only at idle suggests your crankshaft is not to blame.
I need to get a clear mental picture of what exactly is happening.
With this said, you stated that the car "runs fine" until warmed up.
Q: When you start the car when cold it idles fine?
Q: If you allow the car to idle until "fully" warmed does the car stall?
Q: As the car begins to warm up, Does the RPM fluctuate abnormally?
Q: Does the car Only stall when you press on the gas pedal or does it stall just sitting and idling in addition to pressing the gas pedal?
Q: If you can drive it while cold does the car stall during acceleration when warm or only at Stop Signs / Lights?
Q: If you wait 20min or so, can you start the car again?
Q: How many miles are on the car?
Same problem for me. The car would idle at about 2500 when started from cold and about 3 miles on would not idle at all, resulting in the revs dropping off when changing gear or stopping. Also rather jerky in top gear unless thrashed - numerous trips to the garage for air idle valve, injectors etc. but still a problem! Have just found out that GVs are a bit prone to carbon build up in the throttle body - mine was almost blocked - it now feels like a different car.