Question about 2005 Chevrolet Silverado

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Ground wire disconnected from somewhere in the engine compartment. It is over by the master cylinder. It is about 16 inches long, the ground wire.

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Grounding straps need to connect engine, battery, chassis, and other items to one another.

What has been done, lately, to your vehicle? Often some upper engine work, valve cover gaskets, etc, gets the cableing disconnected and not refastened....

What is not mentioned, is which end is attached and where...

Posted on Sep 20, 2009


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Replace brake light swith on MGB

It unscrews once the 2 wires are disconnected. It is on the cover over the brake master and clutch master cylinders in the engine compartment in front of the driver. Test it for 12v power and contact with the brake linkage first to confirm its operative condition. Early MG's had a fluid pressure switch connected to the brake line also near the firewall in the engine compartment.

Oct 24, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch after installing/96 bronco xlt

Clutch Master Cylinder ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Inspect/Replace The clutch master cylinder is located next to the brake master cylinder. A slave cylinder is attached to the release lever at the clutch. The two cylinders are attached hydraulically by tubing and hose.
f62-17.gif A hydraulically operated clutch. To Remove:
  • Take off the reservoir cover and remove the fluid from the reservoir.
  • Disconnect any wires connected to the reservoir or master cylinder body.
  • Disconnect the tubes.
  • Remove the nuts or bolts attaching the master cylinder to the vehicle.
  • Slide the master cylinder off. If it will move only a short distance but no farther, replace one of the nuts or bolts (finger tight) to support the master cylinder and then disconnect the pushrod from the pedal. After disconnecting the clip or pin and clip holding the pushrod to the pedal, try to remove the master cylinder again.
To Replace:
  • When installing a new master cylinder, it is a good practice to flush the cylinder with clean brake fluid. This is done to remove any debris that might be left over from the manufacturing process or chemical coatings that were used to protect the cylinder from corrosion. To flush a master cylinder, simply fill the reservoirs and the cylinder bores about one-third full with clean brake fluid, install the reservoir cover, plug the line ports, shake the cylinder to work the fluid all around, and drain out all the fluid.
  • Bench bleed the cylinder.
  • If the old master cylinder used a boot or hub seal, a new one should be installed as the master cylinder is being replaced.
  • Place the master cylinder in position, replace the mounting bolts or nuts, and tighten them to the correct torque.
  • Reconnect the pushrod to the pedal as necessary.
  • Remove the plugs or bleeder tubes from the outlet port as you connect the line. Do not tighten the line yet. Place a shop cloth under the line fitting to catch any fluid that may leak out.
  • Fill the reservoir about three-fourths full with brake fluid.
  • Have an assistant slowly push the pedal as you observe the connections a the outlet port. They will probably be leaking some fluid with air bubbles. Continue the pedal strokes until only fluid with no air bubbles leaves the connection.
  • At this point, tighten the connection with the pedal is being pushed downward.
  • Fill the reservoir to the correct level and replace the cover.
  • Reconnect any wires that were disconnected.
  • Check the brake pedal free travel and adjust it if necessary. There should be 1/16 to 1/8 in. (1.6 to 3.1 mm) of free travel before the pushrod engages the piston in the master cylinder

May 08, 2012 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 95' gmc sierra and im not sure where the brake fluid goes in at.?

the brake master cylinder reservoir is located on the drivers side of the engine compartment near the firewall right above and mounted to the top of the brake master cylinder. I believe that one should be a yelowish color with a black rectangular cap that measures about 3 inches by about 5 inches.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at

Jul 06, 2011 | 1995 GMC Sierra

5 Answers

Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...

Check the brake fluid it low or no brake fluid at the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

Need photos of alternator and starter wiring on 93 nissan 4wd - 4 cylinder truck yes please i disconnected and didnt label wires thought it would be faster it wasnt. its good lesson. the engine...

there are 4 wires go to alternator
2 white wires go to battery
1 black wire goes to ground
1 yellow/black goes to bulb check relay
starter has only two wires
the big one goes to the battery and the small one goes to ignition system. you can not mix the terminals because the size of the studs on the starter

Mar 07, 2010 | 1993 Nissan Pickup

2 Answers

My car is a manual 5 speed, i have a hose that connects to electrical component under the master cylinder, and a hose line has disconnected from the engine somewhere, that goes to that component, i need...

It could be the hose to the break booster. It should be a 3/8 or n7/16 line and it hooks to the intake on the other end. Listen for the whistling sound and it will most likely lead you to the fitting that it goes on.

Dec 13, 2009 | 2003 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

Brakes went completely out, not the brake pads

Do you mean the brake pedal goes down to the floor, and doesn't stop the van at all? If that is what happened, check the master brake cylinder reservoir under the hood, on the driver's side of the engine, at the 'firewall', which is the engine compartment metal wall that separates the inside of the van from the engine compartment. Is it low, or empty? If the fluid is down, there is a leak somewhere. This must be fixed before you can drive it safely. Check under the van for wet areas, especially at the back side of the wheels, and any puddles or wet spots on the ground under the van. Let me know what you find, I'll try to help further.

Oct 24, 2009 | 1999 Pontiac Montana

2 Answers

Where do you add brake fluid

Please don't add brake fluid to the engine, you'll ruin it. Brake fluid is added to the Brake Master Cylinder.

Hood open, viewing your Jeep from the front, (Facing the windshield)
The Brake Master Cylinder is on the upper right, mounted fairly close under the windshield.
(If you have Power Brakes it is mounted on a Power Booster. If you do not have power brakes it is mounted directly to the firewall)

This link below will show you what it looks like,

This link shows what the brake master cylinder looks like, not installed. You are looking at the back view of it.
From the mounting flange that has a hole on each side, to the tip of that rod sticking out, is a view you will not see.

The photo is to illustrate the top cover, and the wire looking device that holds the cover on.

Viewing the Jeep from the front, the wire device you see is moved to the ->Right.
A common tool used to move it would be a sturdy flat tip screwdriver.
It is very stiff to move, but be sure you are trying to move it the correct direction.

When you go to fill the master cylinder the proper level for the brake fluid is one-eighth inch below the rim edge. (1/8th inch)

You will see two compartments. You will also see that the master cylinder sits at an angle. It's angled toward the back. The back edge of each compartment's rim edge, is what you use to judge the brake fluid level. (1/8th inch below that edge)

Sep 05, 2009 | 1983 Jeep CJ5

2 Answers

Where to put the break fluid?

This is usually located under the hood on the driver's side of the car, toward the back of the engine compartment. Imagine where your brake pedal would end up if it went all the way through to the engine. The brake master cylinder is a small (about 6-by-2 inches), rectangular piece of metal with a plastic reservoir and a rubber cap on top, and small metal tubes leading from it.

The rectangle reservoir on the top of the master cylinder is where you fill. just take the top cap of the reservoir.

Please rate and god bless:)

May 04, 2009 | 2006 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Trying to find where a ground wire connects to

Wire could go to rear of cylinder head. Going from the firewall to the master cylinder really does not make much sense as that assembly is bolted to the firewall and is grounded there. Generally most systems have multiple ground points, which is why you likely don't have any problems other than finding a home for that wire. On lots of vehicles I've owned, when there was a question about reliable grounding, I ran a 12ga or heavier wire from the battery to engine, firewall, dash and fenders, independent of all factory grounds. It's overkill, but I've never had a ground problem either!

Jan 07, 2009 | 2003 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

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