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Posted on Feb 07, 2018
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Nissan Patrol 4x4 V6 1991 model front right wheel lock on hub keep slipping. Replaced it several times with others. Could there be something wrong in the hub or is it the wheel lockers that are faulty? With the last 4x4 on sand the lock stripped. Don't want to lock at all now. Bit frustrated.

1 Answer

Marvin

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  • Nissan Master 85,242 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 07, 2018
Marvin
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Joined: Jun 20, 2008
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Most likely the wheel lock vacuum motor is defective o rhas low vacuum from the engine.

5 Related Answers

rlevitt747

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SOURCE: problems with 4 wheel drive on 04 Nissan Titan

2004 Nissan Titan when using the kick down and the accelerator pedal is about 75% depressed the RMP go into the red zone then drop to about 25K and comes close to stalling. Why?

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Mar 25, 2009

SOURCE: Where to put the timing marks on a 96' nissan 2.4 liter

the timing chain tensioner is hydraulic and either out of adjustment or defective.  You need to remove the timing chain cover and reset the mechanical correlation between the crankshaft and the camshafts.  also the other ignition time marks are on the crankshaft harmonic balancer and the cam cover.  Do not crank the engine with the timing out of sequence or you'll destroy the engine.

c17hydro

Greg Bernett

  • 2993 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 23, 2009

SOURCE: Directions replace front wheel bearings on a 1985 nissan stanza?

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NOTE: After the wheel bearings have been removed or replaced or the front axle has been reassembled be sure to adjust wheel bearing preload. Refer to the Adjustment service procedure below. On the 1989–92 240SX there is just one wheel bearing, pressed into the hub and no adjusting cap. Refer to the exploded views of the Front Axle Hub Assembly. Review the complete service procedure.

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the front wheels and the brake caliper assemblies. NOTE: Brake hoses do not need to be disconnected from the brake caliper assemblies. Make sure the brake hoses are secure and do not let caliper assemblies hang unsupported from the vehicle.
  3. Work off center hub cap by using thin tool. If necessary tap around it with a soft hammer while removing.
  4. Pry off cotter pin and take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing lock nut.
  5. Remove wheel hub with disc brake rotor from spindle with bearings installed. Remove the outer bearing from the hub.
  6. Remove inner bearing and grease seal from hub using long brass drift pin or equivalent.
  7. If it is necessary to replace the bearing outer races, drive them out of the hub with a brass drift pin and mallet.
  8. Install the outer bearing race with a tool (KV401021S0 special tool number) until it seats in the hub flush. NOTE: Place a large glob of grease into the palm of one hand and push the bearing through it with a sliding motion. The grease must be forced through the side of the bearing and in between each roller. Continue until the grease begins to ooze out the other side through the gaps between the rollers. The bearing must be completely packed with grease.
  9. Pack each wheel bearing with high temperature wheel bearing grease. Pack hub and hub cap with the recommended wheel bearing grease up to shaded portions. Refer to the illustration.
  10. Install the inner bearing and grease seal in the proper position in the hub.
  11. Install the wheel hub with disc brake rotor to the spindle.
  12. Install the outer wheel bearing, lock washer, wheel bearing lock nut, adjusting cap, cotter pin (always use a new cotter pin and O-ring for installation after adjustment), spread cotter pin then install the O-ring and dust cap.
  13. Install the brake caliper assemblies and bleed brakes if necessary. Install the front wheels.

DIESELMUDDER

J.D. Browning

  • 2760 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 21, 2009

SOURCE: wont start when hot!

I agree that the problem is most likely fuel boiling off in the injectors due to heat aside from replaceing all the injectors
you are gonna have to open the hood AND hold down the purge valve and have someone crank it for you
but also don't give up yet have ya tried opening up the gas cap vent hole a bit more?

Anonymous

  • 348 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 15, 2009

SOURCE: Is it hard to replace the front wheel bearing hub

Its a big pain. The hub is rusted on tight and has to be beaten off with a mini sledge. Go to your local AP store and look it up in a repair manual to see what you are in for.

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Was stuck using 4 lo. Had 3 wheels spinning except l/rear,just sat doing nothing.

4 wheel drive is unfortunately a bit of a myth as in 4 wd any two wheels with no traction will not move you any where
so if you have both rh side wheels slipping,
go no where
left front right rear ,
going no where
the wheel that was not turning was the only wheel that had traction but through the differential action the other wheel spun faster
now with limited slip diff centers , both wheels have to turn as the differential action locks up so yes you would be going some where.
posi traction is the same idea
vehicles that have limited slip diffs are Toyota and Nissan as standard with some Nissans having limited slip diffs in the front drive axle as well
now if you are doing a lot of 4wd driving in adverse conditions , you need to have locker diff centers ( available from off road shops ) as they physically lock the diff actions ( with the flick of a switch) with the result if all 4 wheels are spinning and you are not moving , your stuck but if one wheel has traction you keep moving
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Can't get my 95 Geo Trackers 4WD to work. The indicator light works still but the wheels themselves won't engage. Can anyone plz help me out with what might be my problem?

For Trackers (and Sidekicks) of this era (1989 to 1998) the front axle locking device is a locking hub on each front wheel. (There are no actuators until the model change in 1999.) Locking hubs come in two flavors, Manual and auto locking hubs. A look at the from wheel should tell you what you have. Manual hubs have a knob like lever with the word "lock" and "free." Auto hubs say "Auto-Locking" right on them. Both types of hubs require servicing periodicity. (Normally annually.) This means removing and disassembling. Then cleaning and light greasing before reassembling. There are some good videos on the web on how to service the manual hubs. Auto hubs are a little harder to ensure they are working properly, but some people like them. (Not me.)

Please note two things:
1. Due to differential action, BOTH hubs need to be locked for any power to be applied to the front wheels.
2. Trackers of this era are PART TIME 4x4, NOT all wheel drive. They have nothing providing for different wheel speeds front to back like a center differential. This means they should NOT be used on non-slippery surfaces like dry pavement. Beside causing handling and braking issues, it can destroy your transfercase driving on dry pavement in 4x4 due to what is called "driveline wind up".

PLEASE if you do not understand this, look it up... if you still do not understand, ask and do not use the 4x4 until you do.
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Replace right front wheel stud

If it is just one stud,it's best to leave it be,I have a 85 Nissan 4x4 and one stud is stripped and I have a repair manual and with it being a 4x4,there is a lot of parts to be remove to get to the stud and it may effect my 4x4ing if something doesn't go back just right.I found a repair guide for yours but it doesn't go into detail.It's best to have a repair manual for this so you will know how everything goes back.
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I have a gmc sierra 1500 4wd. when I engage the 4wd and go to make a turn I hear a loud popping noise. In 2wd it does not do this. Is something wrong with the transfer case?

Alot of people are having this problem. A locked 4x4 while turning on a dry or wet surface will do this, unless it is snow or mud which allow the wheels to slip the front wheels bind and buck,clunk. Now if this is not the case then check the CV joints, jack front wheels off ground, one at a time is fine, grab wheel and wiggle all around and see if tire feels loose as it might be a bad wheel bearing hub also. I don't believe there is anything wrong with the ,transfercase. I have owned 4x4s for 31 yrs ranging from 1967 - 2003, mostly chevy (gmc) ford, and 1 dodge ram. 9 out of 10 times it is front hubs,pinion,front driveshaft. Transfercases either work or they don't,and if they don't its because it's broke and your not driving.
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What is needed to remedy right hand front wheel bearing play on a 1990 d21 4X4 ute

replace the bearing or wheel hub assembly.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2wd Models NOTE: Refer to wheel bearing service and bearing preload adjustment procedures found in Section 1.
  1. Raise the front of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels.
  2. Remove the brake caliper and suspend it with wire, out of the way. Remove the caliper torque plate if equipped.
  3. Remove the dust cap and then remove the cotter pin, lock washer (if equipped) nut lock and nut.
  4. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle with the outer bearing. Don't let the bearing fall out.
  5. Pry the inner oil seal out and remove the inner bearing. To install:
  6. Clean and inspect the bearings and outer races.
  7. Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive out the bearing outer race. Press a new one into position.
  8. Pack the bearings with grease until it oozes out the other side. Coat the inside of the hub and cap with grease.
  9. Position the inner bearing into the hub, coat the oil seal with grease and press it into the hub.
  10. Press the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing and thrust washer.
  11. Install the hub nut. Turn the hub a few times to seat the bearings and then loosen the nut until there is 0mm axial play. Using a spring tension gauge, check that the preload (with new grease seal installed) is 2.2–6.4 lbs. (9.8–28.4N)
  12. Install the lock-nut, new cotter pin and hub grease cap.
  13. Install the brake torque plate. Install the brake caliper.
  14. Install the wheels and lower the truck.
4wd Models The hub and bearing service procedures for a 4wd models are basically the same as those for a 2wd version, with the exception of removing the free running hub assembly and the bearing preload adjustment. Refer to Sections 1 and 7 for additional information. Adjust the preload after the wheel bearing is replaced or the front axle assembly is reassembled. BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
  1. Thoroughly clean all parts and pack the wheel bearings.
  2. Apply grease to threaded portions of the spindle, grease seal lip and wheel hub.
  3. Tighten the wheel bearing lock-nut with a socket and torque wrench to 58–72 ft. lbs. (78–98 Nm).
  4. Rotate the hub in both directions a few times to seat the bearings. Loosen wheel bearing lock-nut.
  5. Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
  6. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
  7. Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm). Fig. 1: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 2wd models 86718030.gif
    Fig. 2: Removing the bearing outer races 86718032.gif
    Fig. 3: Packing the wheel bearing with grease 86718033.gif
    Fig. 4: Pack the lip cavity of grease seal with grease 86718034.gif
    Fig. 5: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 4wd models 86718031.gif

  8. Measure wheel bearing axial end-play. The wheel bearing end-play specification is 0.
  9. Install lock washer by tightening the lock-nut within 15–30 degrees.
  10. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions. Wheel bearing should be seated correctly.
  11. If necessary, measure wheel bearing preload. NOTE: Measure wheel bearing preload with a spring-type gauge; measure at wheel hub bolt, with tire removed. The hub assembly should rotate with 1.6–4.7 lbs. (0.73–2.13 kg) of pressure.
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When engaged in 4x4 hi. im getting this clicking sound while driving. stops when truck stops. its a 96 with the 5.0

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If your clicking noise sounds more like a "electrical" click, Then you might have to try following the noise and give more details about your problem.
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It sounds like maybe your auto lockers in your front wheel hubs are not locking. You may be able to get them to lock if while in 4x4 you jab your brake pedal several times, sometimes this will work to get them to engage but even if this works I would advise that you either invest in a good set of manual locking hubs or replace the ones you have with new auto lockers. The auto locking 4x4 hubs are great when they work but when they don't they are not serviceable. The manual lockers are allot less likely to fail on you in the future.
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