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Rpm's jump temporarily when driving like trans. slipped,
Also once a month or so, when I start the truck it will not idle down from 1500 rpm's. This has happened at least 7 or 8 times but usually goes away in a few days on it's own. It makes it difficult to stop the truck, and no matter what I do, shift into neutral or drive(drive lowers it to about 1100 rpm's) it is still running the engine at too high rpm's. This time it is lasting longer, has not stopped in a week. Another intermittent problem I have is pinging. I can be pulling my boat and it will be fine but then when ever it feels like it it will ping even under no load and moderate or hard accel. The truck has had a new tune up, cap, wires, plugs, and I even installed a cold air intake system, but the all problems sill occur intermittently. I have ordered a TPS and should have it in a few days. My cel has never come on. It is a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.9 V8 with only 85,000 mi. These problems started before I put the cold air intake on, and oversized the tires to 35". The only other modification I have made is 2 1/4" dual exhaust with turbo mufflers, but again only after I started having the problems.
Re: rpm's jump temporarily when driving like trans....
CHECK THE CODITION OF YOUR IAC SENSOR(IDLE AIR CONTROL) IT MAY NEED SERVICING ALSO THE COLD AIR INTAKE MAY NOT BE COMPATABLE WITH YOUR ENGINE I'V SEEN SIMILER PROBLEMS WITH TOYOTA CAROLARS WITH THE SAME SYSTEM TRY REPLACING THE OLD INTAKE AND SEE IF IT MAKES A DIFERENCE
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RPM at 800 , in drive
can you race motor in neutral, to 2500 rpm
?
1: does rpm rise above 1500 in drive and no movement, (slip and bad tranny)
2: or holds about 1500 but can move. (brakes frozen , with ice)
try to push car in neutral on flat ground, can you>
no , the brakes are iced.
yes, then engine power is bad.
with A/T trans, you get to first find out.
1: is engine weak.
2: is tranny slipping (races to very high rpm and no go)
3: or brakes ices, (post location so we can see climate, duh?
Not enough info.. is the engine Throttling?? up down up down?? Idle should be say between a "Steady" 600 to 725 RPM.. depending if in drive or not.. BCB..
The automatic idle speed control system has lost its adaptive idle learning due to the dead battery. To help to correct this in the short term run the engine at 2000 RPM until warm, then back down to 1500 RPM for 3 minutes, then 1000 RPM for 3 minutes, then let it idle for 5 minutes, this should get the system to a point in the idle learn that it doesn't stall out, then drive it for 20 miles under varied conditions of highway and stop and go and low speed operation, that should get all to work again. If you still have problems you will need to have the system scanned to see what is going on that is causing a stall. Also add fresh fuel, gas goes bad in about 3 months. Use the recommended grade of fuel.
U are going to need to overhaul the transmission here, the smoke is the trans overheating from excessive slippage i suspect.code for wrong gear ratio's mean the input and output shaft speed are out of symc for the gear the trans is in, the 3rd or 4th gear is the usual codes, this sometimes is caused by defective speed sensors but most times the trans is slipping and the TCM detects that and sets a code
SOUNDS LIKE THE IDLE AIR VALVE IS CARBONED UP TRY SPRAYING CARBURETOR CLEANER INTO AIR INTAKE AT THE THRUTTLE BODY WHILE HOLDING IDLE SPEED AROUND 1500 TO 1900 RPMS USUALLY AFTER SPRAYING FOR SEVERAL MINUTES ABOUT HALF A CAN THE PROBLEM WILL BE FIXED ...IF THIS DOES NO GOOD YOU MAY HAVE TO TAKE IT TO THE DEALER TO HAVE THE IDLE SPEED REPROGRAMED IN THE ECM WITH THE DEALERS DIAGNOSTIC SCAN TOOL....USUALLY FOR AROUND 50 TO 60 BUCKS HOPE THIS HELPS
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