Have 04 toy 4runner. Struts are riding soft and seems to bottom out. Don't have switch to adjust and don't know where the fluid tank for struts are

It varies with the type of service the car has had, but about 100000 Km would be a reasonable figure, maybe less. They would last 50000 Km I think before they began to deteriorate.
Struts can deteriorate so slowly then, you don't notice you are getting a rougher ride until you replace them.
The popular test is to bounce the corner of the car down as hard as you can, with maybe an assistant next to you, then it should rise and settle within 1 1/2 bounces.
The trouble is this test is so crude you can only detect a strut which is completely stuffed.

if you don't hear noise, clunking over bumps, or you jack the car and the strut/shock isn't leaking fluid and the spring is holding the car up and not sagging you don't need struts. You knew you needed brakes, you'll know when your suspension is in need of repair. then theres the old rock the car up n down. just get 2nd n 3rd opinion-save $$$

Dear Anne,

I don't understand the question. Struts don't pound against the bottom of the windshield. You Mean Windshield struts? I don't Get It.

Alex

STRUTS IS SHOCK SURROUND BY COIL SPRING.IF YOU SEE OIL LEAKING FROM STRUT CARTRIDGE.OR CAR BOUNCES RIDE ROUGH.CAR SEEM MORE LOW ON ONE SIDE THE WHOLE STRUT NEEDS REPLACING.MY OLD CHEVROLET GOT 140000 MILES ON IT WITH ORIGINAL STRUTS THEY LAST LONG TIME.

If it has the factory original struts, they probably need replacing. When driving over paved surfaces, the struts only move up and down a few inches. that causes the strut to wear out or become soft in that short travel area. What most people do when they check a strut or shock for wear is to bounce the vehicle up and down as hard as they can. This puts movement into an area of the strut that hasn't seen any wear, so it feels like it is in good shape. 77,000 miles is a lot for a strut or shock. I would have them replaced. Get a quality strut. Don't go for the economy strut. You will be disappointed in the ride quality. It would be a good idea to have the ball joints checked for wear. A little movement in worn ball joints can make for a very rough ride.

Hummmmmm........ either:

(1) Your front struts are worn out or leaking; or,

(2) Your driving style is too aggressive or loads too heavy for your stock suspension to handle.

Jack the front of the car up and remove each front wheel. Look at the strut body to see if there are any signs of leaking fluid or if anything is broken or otherwise amiss. If the struts are leaking, then I suggest you replace with something other than standard replacement Monroe shocks (either Blistiens or Ranchos). If the struts are not leaking, then maybe your driving style is too aggressive for the stock suspension. If this is the case, then upgrade as necessary or change your driving style. Front suspension upgrade would start at $700 and go up from there depending upon the modifications.

it seems like you need a really bad wheel alignment you can tell if your tires are waring fast

Hello; In regards to the Post, you can do a Strut Converstion and Retrofit, by using the Taurus/Sable struts. This convertion will work, but only for a limited time. The Coil Springs for the REAR, on a Taurus/Sable are much to "soft" for the large Lincoln Continental, it requires stiffer springs, or DO NOT CARRY much of a load in the rear trunk. I used a used pair of Rear struts from a 1994(r) and 1990(f) struts from a Taurus/Sable for the conversion. In all I spent, about $100. I did this conversion, to my 1992 Con in 2004, it lasted without any problems until June 2009, when one of my Rear struts collapsed, due to to much weight in my trunk. You can not carry much of a load, using the Retrofit struts, I gather. The bottom coil Seat of one of my struts has bent downwards, and is not rubbing against the inner well/bead of the tire. Not a nice thing, and very unsafe, and the car will eventually bottom-out due to the week spring arrangement. The car needs springs that are about 50% stronger. FYI. Other then that, it works OK.
The front struts retrofit, are better suited for this conversion, since both vehicles, use the same engine/tran arrangement, and the weight of the vehicle is not inquestion. Only the Rear, but I have not found, a low cost solution to this problem. The only other Alternative, is to buy the Monroe #90001 or Arnott conversion kit, their is also is Strutmasters.com

Since the ride is still OK, I would hold off on the strut replacement, but I would try some silicon spray for rubber on the suspension rubber parts (and strut assy) and try to stop the squeaking that way. Hope this helps because I would have guessed brake noise before strut noise.

everything the mechanic suggested is right on target. Over time you do not realize that the ride of your car has deteriorated until you put on the new struts and the alignment is a must after the replacement of those struts. As far as the back brakes being good versus the front being worn out, the front brakes take a lot more abuse than the rears do to eight transfer upon braking.