My Buick Has some sort of short (I assume) on the driver side. Once you turn off the ignition you need to un-hook the battery or it will not start without a "jump". Also when you have the car in either reverse or drive there is a constant "dinging" as if a door is open (when its not) and it will not stop "dinging" unless taken out of gear. I have tried everything I can think of to get the sound to stop, buckled all belts, closed all doors, ect. If you have any idea Please Help!

You have coil on plug ignition? That top wire may be shorted to ground, somewhere? Or the pcm coil driver has a problem? If the coil caused the first pcm to fail and you didn't fix it, It might cause the new pcm to fail, also. Hope not. Just my opinion.

unhook battery 15 min hook back on lower driver window put key on ignition just bump the engine and wait until security lit stop flashing turn key off do it again 3 times once lit goes off crank engine an should start if lit wont go away or flash while cranking you have a security issue at switch or bcm now need a scanner capable to look at the security data

Double check the battery connections. The bolt part that you turn to tighten the cable ends to the battery will pop out of the cable ends. The plastic cover can then be removed and the cable ends can then be thoroughly cleaned. Whe reinstalling make sure the bolts are tight. The fact that the car starts with jumper cables tells me there is a connection issue with the battery. The one question I have is did you hook the jumper cables up to the battery or did you hook them up remotely? It is possible that the engine ground down by the starter may be bad. If you hooked the ground up to the block or someplace other than the battery it would explain why it started and ran but would not start on the battery.

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Yes! You need to replace ignition , sounds like gear teeth got stripped .

Very simple.

First hook up Positive Red and Negative Black terminals to the battery in the known good car. Then hook the Red terminal on the opposite end of the jumper cables to the positive Red terminal of the battery in the known bad car. Then, carefully, without shorting out the connectors, connect the final black jumper cable to the 'frame' of the known bad car.

Hope this helps.

Check and make sure the back light (if the front one is out) isn't shorted. The door opening from the inside only is pretty common. You will need to take off the inside door panel. To do this you will need to remove anything that has a screw in it, hand hold, release lever etc. Once you have done this you will need a large standard screw driver or panel clip tool would be better (its 'u' shaped on the end) start from the bottom of the panel and work your way around the edges then across the top. Some panels on the top will just hook in the top of the door (prevents people from mawling the painted door) so once you have the sides and bottom un done lift up on the panel, if it still feels solid, pop the top clips off too. Once you have done this you will probably see a clear plastic, you will have to get through this. It is recomended that you replace the plastic, but not neccesary, especially something this old. You should have the window up (out of the way of linkages) and you should be able to see a linkage that came disconnected. a lot of the time it will be a clip that breaks and the linkage will just fall out. You can buy this clip from any parts store, otherwise tape will work fine, but not to tight to allow rotation. If it is the handle, you can get replacements of them too, but you will have to take the tumblers out for the key.

if acc is the one before the starter then no as you have to turn the key in order to start sorry! but if it is lighting the dash up with battery and engine lights then u can short the rear of the ignition barrel by taking off the cowling {around ignition} then there should be wires soldered to the back of what we call the black [or white] box. once youve charged the battery you can cross the back wires using a screw driver, when you hear it turn over you can determine which is the live feed and cross with starter wire. failing this the best i can advise is removing cowling and taking black{or white} box off the back of the ignition barrel end and then you will be able to drive it until you get a new ignition barrel hope that helps

key switch,remove center cap and pull steering wheel off with wheel puller.disconect horn,blinkers assembly.push pin remove ignition. ignition switch, remove panel under dash un bolt steering colum lower to seat un screw ignition from top steering colum un hook rod,un plug harnees put new one on put back together

Easiest way to locate the starter is to follow the positive wire off the battery connection to the starter. Once you have located he starter I would put a voltmeter on the positive lead and check to see if there is any voltage reading at the starter while trying to start the engine. You can also check the capacity of the battery by hooking the voltmeter to the battery terminals. Voltage should not drop below 9 volts while trying to start the engine.

one side or all?? do the hazard lights work/ blink? do all the other lights work??? if the other lights work, replace the hazard/turn signal module its up under the dash, tough to get to. I would have a repair shop replace it for you.