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Upper end knock in my chrysler 3.0l motor

Adjust valves 3.0l motor

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Buy manual, do a oil change, use slightly heavier wt oil

Posted on Sep 13, 2009

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I have a 2007 Chrysler 300 v6 2.7 litre an when starting an pushing on the gas it makes a knocking noise I've been told its a lifter how or were are them located on the motor an can u replace them


They are located under the valve covers and you may or may not need to replace. I'd evaluate them a bit first and see if adjusting them doesn't work better.

Aug 16, 2015 | Chrysler Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i find out why i have a upper end knock i just put vortec heads on a 5.7 350 but its an older block that has been punched out 30 over has a mild lunati cam sounds like its out of time please help


Is it carbureted or fuel injected? Electric fuel pump or mechanical? And does it knock at idle and all engine speeds? Double check your valve adjustment also.

Dec 11, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Knock in front end


Links are easy but getting old ones off is the hardest part. Wheels off and soak 2 nuts on each side upper and lower, and let sit 1/2 hour. You should also change the bushing 2 bolts each, where the lower part of links go into stabilizer bar, the bushing hold the bar in place. It is all connected to a front end knock/ banging noise. the fix should get rid of noise.

Mar 31, 2014 | 2001 Chrysler Voyager

1 Answer

Noise startup


Have your valve lash adjusted. Overhead cams need the lash done every 25-30K otherwise after some time they make a loud ticking sound. If the motor makes a "Knocking" sound, it may be a lower end noise, and there is no adjustment for that.

Jun 17, 2013 | Hyundai Santa Fe Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Do you have to adjust the valves on a 2.2 ecotech


depends how deep the knock is it might be lifters in this case the valve cover needs removed to access adjustment you may want to have this done for you

Aug 27, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2005 chrysler 300-can hear the engine noises when the ride used to be more quiet?


Hi there:
Check this information about "engine noses"...

ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Jul 19, 2012 | 2006 Chrysler 300

1 Answer

Lifters are knocking and there is a missing in


lifters tick and noise is upper end of engine if lifters are making noise could be from a bad valve,bad lifter ,push rod ,oil pressure,rocker arm - need to take do compression test find out if valve problem and which cylinder is problem also take off valve cover and check for proper oiling of valve head and look to see if and are damaged or loose-------a knocking sound usually comes from lower end of engine,rod knock etc.and thats usually rebuild of engine

Nov 22, 2009 | 1994 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

Upper end engine knock. Engine has same power no fouled plugs.


Valve lifters may be vibrating or need to be adjusted.

You can go to autozone.com and register for full free online repair manual

Nov 20, 2009 | 1998 Lincoln Town Car

2 Answers

Light tapping driver side valve cover in rear area 1973 chevy small block corvette engine. when engine rives up the tapping gets a little louder, the tapping is light, not a deep knocking sound.


The valves are out of adjustment or possibly a lifter is collapsed. A service manual or many sites online can provide you with information and a few different methods of adjusting the valves.

Oct 25, 2009 | 1972 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

Upper engine knocking


I suggest if you know how to work on cars, adjusting your lifters, this is the common problem with those motors.

Sep 10, 2008 | 2003 Mazda MPV

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