You may want to call a ford dealer and ask them if there is a sensor on the car that when you accelerate it turns the air conditioner off while you're accelerating to give you more power.
Good idea. Thanks.
Ok Dee good for you I'm very glad you are making great progress here and ok your mechanic did vacuum the system and your air is freezing please understand that none of us can check for ourselves and also trying to post long answers here don't get through Change any vacuum pots and put fresh hoses also lubricate the blend doors hinges for unrestricted movement and a big HOORAY! FOR YOU NO MORE ROASTING SOON POLAR CRUISER
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The service and repair manual with pictures and diagram will provide you step by step help to locate and fix the problem easily on your own and you will get the manual from the given link https://toolsnyou.com
I have one. I'm about to see what I can find in it now. Thanks for replying.
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Your problem is low freon gas and air in the system from not being evacuated properly you had a leak in the system if you had to add freon 134a these systems are sealed and never need gas unless there's a leak so now there's not enough gas in it that's why (a) it only blows cool air not cold air (b) when you accelerate the pressure drops inside the AC system from a low freon level this pressure drop shuts of the compressor thought the high pressure line and cuts the electrical power to the cycling switch on top of the receiver drier get a can of freon gas with dye in it and add it to the system on the low pressure side line by the drier then look for leaks in the system it will show up //////if you already did an AC repair on it but didn't evacuate the system under a vacuum pump procedure this must be done because your system has a real lot of air in it and the compressor will not work and the system is contaminated ok pay attention to the bottom of the drier they usually get holes in them from sweating during operation and this eventually will rust out and cause a hole other places to observe are the condenser in front of the radiator and all line joints the o ring seals can corroded from air contamination inside the system if you find this you must wear rubber gloves handling the seals your skin oil will contaminate them and in a few months you have a problem again ok good luck stephen
Testimonial: "Thanks.. Whew! A mechanic was supposed to had handled all of that, but they did very little work, & stuck me for $300.00. He said he did all he could, no he did all he wanted, & no more. I discovered what's called a WOT(wide open throttle) relay that's possibly an issue as well. Took it out, cleaned the connection, then the opposite began to happen. On the highway, the A/C blew constantly never shut off, when I slowed down, the A/C slowed to basically stopping & shutting off. I got out, went to where I was going, church at the moment, left church, & the A/C did the opposite, at low speeds, it blew like crazy, on the highway, it shut off. Went to Wal-Mart, came back out, & this time the A/C flipped again, barely blew air at low speeds, but blew stronger at high speeds. So, I believe my WOT relay is old & worn out, & malfunctioning. Next, I dug in my heat/A/C plenum & found that the vent, panel, Hi/Lo doors(2 doors) would just dangle when I select floor or defrost, but when I select vent, panel, Hi/Lo, the doors would close tightly to the left. So I assume those actuators are shot & dry rotted on the inside, since they just dangle when I select floor, or defrost. Aren't they supposed to close tightly to the right when I select floor, or defrost, to allow strong air floor to the floor air duct, or the defrost air duct? I manually closed those 2 doors when I selected floor, & the floor air duct had strong air flowing, I couldn't test the defrost air duct, because it was unattached, but I assume these 2 doors are the culprit.. What do you think? Thanks for responding, & for your advice by the way."
SOURCE: 1986 VW Golf heater blows cold air
The heater in your car depends upon a flow of hot coolant going through the heater core in order to get hot air into the car. If the heater core is partially plugged, it will restrict the flow. If you have a head gasket that is putting exhaust into the cooling system, it will eventually get into the heater core. When this happens there is no coolant in the heater core to make the air warm. If the water pump vanes have corroded away the result will be very poor coolant circulation causing the heater to not blow hot air. If your car is equipped with a heater control valve that is not functioning properly, the coolant flow will be restricted. One or a combination of these factors is likely the culprit in your case.
if the car is not overheating, the thermostat is working fine.... replace or flush the heater core multiple times to try and eliminate sediment build-up.
SOURCE: Fully warmed up; blowing hot and cold; Suzuki XL-7
Its just a vent damper plate not operating, it's like a gate which controls the flow of air,,usually they are operated by vacuum, or cables.
Service center time, unless you are handy with your own repairs.
SOURCE: 2002 GMC Yukon blows cold air from the front, rear works fine
check you antifreeze level and make sure its full
SOURCE: 2001 Lincoln LS heater blows
When the engine is cold,check the coolant level.
Make sure it's on max.
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A coolant system should be flush every two years.
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If you did a coolant flush recently then air pocket can be the cause of the un-even heating problem.
The DIY method is to drive you car onto a ramp or a steep hill.
Iet the engine cool off and top off the coolant tank.
Set MAX heat + MAX fan
Let the engine ran for 20 minutes wih the cap off and the trap air will escape from the coolant reserve tank,
Check coolant level and top off coolant when the engine cools down.
A shop will charge $75+ for this but using an air operated excavate tool!
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A car with over 90K miles may experience linkage problem to the heater control valve.
The heater control valve (near the firewall) may be stick over time.
Open the hood and move the heater to max and min. Back and forth.
Clean and lube the linkage with WD-40 to free the heater control valve.
If it's a vacuum type heater control valve then cash for leaky vac. hoses.
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Move the fan switch back and forth to re-new the electrical conductors.
Pass a vacuum over the control panel to prevent dust build up behind the console.
SOURCE: 2000 Jaguar S type 3.0 Blows only cold air on full
Check the little pump below the brake booster for running and the coolant valve for movement.
Both hoses to fire wall should be hot.
Check for air lock in system.
Blend doors on this vehicle stop working....common complaint.
To verify Blend door movement, turn on ignition with engine off.
Run temp to max and the min..... listen under glove box for ( sliding ) motor noise as door swings from hot to cold.
This is a digital system needing a Jaguar scanner for diagnosis.
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