Problem with 1991 Audi 80E 2.0L. Automatic Transmission.Mechanic friend suggested a noise on accelerating/pick up was coming from gearbox area...suggested the diff...some time later when driving I lost all forward gears but still have reverse...is this liable to be a transmission problem(oil level fine) or a differential problem( recently had to add oil as too low)..thanks for any help
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forget the friends advice
automatic oil should be light tan or cherry red depending on the brand of oil used
the oil should be changed around the 60,000 klm mark and done by accredited transmission shops
If you have a CV-transmission that requires a special oil (not auto transmission oil as they are not automatic transmissions --they have a belt running between variable pulleys which gives the impression that it is automatic but it is not)
When you say wont accelerate does the RPM flares that would be the transmission slipping, or you step on the pedal all the way and the vehicle has lack of acceration you can hear a hissing noise that would be a plugged exhaust.Here the thing you related it to fuel has the problem on the ignition coil is a powerstage if this stage acts up it allows you to accelerate you just dont go anywhere it back fire through the intake that would be the power stage it located on the ignition coil
Hello, what kind of noise? Clanking, whining, knocking, cladder,
squawking,squeaking, rattling, etc...
It could be a number of things. But first, have you ever had the automatic
transmission fluid changed? If you have a lot of miles on your vehicle and never
had the transmission fluid changed out, ti might be to late. The biggest killer
of automatic transmissions is heat. The heat generated by the transmission
gradual destroy the viscosity of the auto transmission fluided.
mechanic is in error
smoking on acceleration after idling ( at lights etc) is valve stem seals
blue smoke on acceleration while travelling is an indication of excessive big end bearing clearance overloading the oil control rings
you don't say what type of transmission you have but if it is a CV transmission it could be a failing drive belt in the transmission especially if you have added normal atf oil at any time
Hey mate, Had exactly the same problem. Suggest you take the car to your local auto transmission repair centre (not holden) and they can check the electrical diagnostics - if it the Transmission inhibitor Switch (as it was on mine - if so should cost you no more than 1 hour labour and about $75 - $95 for the switch.
My friend, manuals are available at your public library or at your NAPA dealer or other fine auto parts stores or a dozen other places on and off line. You are free to search FixYa.com for the manual if you like ... you don't need me to do that for you, experienced transmission mechanic that you are. You might want to look at www.archive.org.
Good luck to you on your project and thanks for your interest in FixYa.com
The first thing to look for is the oil in good condition, next you will want to replace the tail shaft seal and if it's front wheel drive it's harder to do, anyway be sure the oil is ok and ask if the have a warranty for it normally 30 days, also take the tork converter out to a transmission shop and ask them if it's good and if it will work, if the used tyranny does not come with one the pump has to be the right size of input shaft and pump shaft you may have to shell out $30..00 bucks for the check but it’s better than pulling the tyranny again.