Question about 1986 Ford Ranger 2WD
Check the battery. If you do not have sufficient voltage and cranking power, the car simply won't start. Have someone attach booster cables to your battery if the engine seems to be turning over slower than normal. If the battery seems charged, and the starter motor still doesn't turn the engine, the problem may be in your starter motor itself, or the battery cables. Changing the starter is not too complicated, but if you decide to attempt this, try to find someone who has done it before to help you, or buy a do it yourself manual that has a description and pictures of what you need to do. You can also test to see if the voltage is going thru to the starter motor, if not some times you can cross jump the solenoid and start the car.
Remove a spark plug wire from your spark plug and use an insulation handled screwdriver to ground the metal fitting inside the spark plug boot to the engine, and have someone turn the engine over while you watch for a spark. You should have the metal screwdriver shaft about an eighth of an inch from a clean metal surface on the engine, and be careful not to touch any un-insulated parts of the tool while testing the plug. If you do not have a spark, you have an ignition circuit problem, and depending on the vintage of your vehicle, you may have to replace anything from a coil wire to an ignition CPU, or computer.
In addition to above, some related points to check are as under:-
1. Consider the complexity of your car before beginning and take your car to a trusted repair shop. Modern cars (mid-nineties or later) are extremely computer controlled, and it will be difficult for you to make any adjustments. You will want to take it into the shop to address this problem.
2. The stall is likely caused by either a problem in the electrical system or in the fuel system. Your engine stops running because it is not igniting gas in the cylinders, this occurs either because there isn't gas to ignite, or because it lacks the electrical charge to ignite it.
3. Drive the car up and down steep hills. Does this change the performance of the engine, or cause it to stall? This might indicate a clogged fuel filter. Replacing the fuel filter is relatively cheap and easy once you find out where it's located.
4. Does the car idle roughly and stall when at idle? If your car has a distributor, you may need to adjust the timing. With the right tools and know how, this is an easy and free task. If your vehicle has fuel injection, you can check the injector by using a screw driver or mechanics scope. The injectors will make a clicking/snapping sound if working. No sound would indicate a bad injector available at most DIY auto parts stores. Also check the ICM, idle control motor that controls the air mixture.
5. If your car has a distributor, you might consider changing the cap, rotor, wires and plugs. This is effectively a tune up. This can usually be done even by a relative novice to car repair, and take a couple of hours with the right tools. It seems counterintuitive, but even the wires and distributor decay over time, and transmit less electricity. This tune up may solve your stalling problem -- even if not, your car should run better and get better mileage.
6. If your car diesels when you turn off the ignition, it often signals the need to replace the spark plugs. Dieseling describes the situation where you turn off the key, yet the car continues to run for a few seconds or longer, eventually sputtering to a stop.
7. In rare cases, your car may stall due to what is commonly called a "vapor lock". It is actually a vacuum in the fuel line that causes fuel to eventually stop reaching the engine. Try opening your gas cap. If you hear a "whooshing" sound, like when you open a can of coffee, it's vapor lock. Now try starting the car. It should work after a couple tries. This is usually found only in older cars. If you have it, this will probably happen again, so your fuel line should be checked for blockage. A cheap fix is to drill a small hole in your gas cap to allow air in and prevent the vacuum from forming, but it should not be left this way.
Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
If you use the old ignition
system (points & condenser) as a point of reference, the opening of
the points is the trigger that causes the coil to send the voltage
surge (spark) to the sparkplug(s) via the distributor cap.If all else
is checked out as good,then it would seem the problem is in the stator
assembly or the module. You did use dielectric grease on the
Most can be checked out (voltage, resistance, continuity, etc.) except the ignition module. Unlike the old distributor in which the opening of the contacts result in the collapsing field of the primary, this newer concept has a coil which induces the signal for the ignition module to interrupt the primary in the coil. That is not happening. I know that the module has been replaced a couple of times but pointer seem to be going in that direction again, perhaps not the module itself but the wiring, connections, etc,
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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