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hi from uk have you removed the c v joint from/off the driveshaft ? it has a circlip on the inside of cv spined that keeps d/shaft in place then joint can be cleaned /repacked with grease and the boot is easily fitted/secured after sliding onto d/shaft 1st then cv jount pushed back onto shaft till circlip locks in place hope this helps ?
Pull the CV boot up the driveshaft a little way, enough so you can clean all the old grease away.
Now look into the CV joint an locate the circlip that locks the CV to the driveshaft.
Now put the driveshaft into a vice with the CV joint facing downwards.
Now open the circlip and at the same time strike the CV joint. You can do this with a ballpin hammer if you are scrapping the CV joint. You can get a helper to stike the CV joint with a hammer while you keep the circlip open.
This will release the CV joint form the drive shaft.
Now clean the driveshaft of any old grease and fit a new CV boot if needed.
Now reverse the driveshift in the vice and fit the new CV joint. It will tap on with no trouble but do not damage it. Test it is on by trying to pull it off with your hands.
Now fill it with new grease.
Fit the CV boot to the CV joint and secure it to the CV joint.
if the hub nut doesnt have a split pin then knock the peening (indentation) back with a punch
the with the wheel on the ground undo the nut with a breaker bar if this wont work you may need some help or an air gun
It's the cca thats the problem here or cold crancking amps. Just make sure the battery fits into the battery holder and get one with as many cca as you can fit. You could even use a 4x4 battery with 700 or 750 cca if it fits in and you can secure it. But I would recomend you get a smaller passenger car size one as 4x4 batteries would be to big
Righteo, your first main issue here is that you need to make sure that your replacement wheel bearing is of the exact specifications to your vehicle and as the one that was originally fitted to the motor vehicle upon building.
Your other main issues here are likely to relate to matters regarding wheel balancing, tracking, alignment and toeing.. You may also have additional setbacks if you remove the entire driveshaft in order to get at the wheel bearing as you will require to replace lost gearbox oil.
Should you find that you have competently handled these situations, then it may be worthwhile considering to invest in a decent torque wrench, as the nuts, bolts and fixings MUST ONLY be tightened to their torque capabilities and no further.
You can always get hold of the workshop manual or consult a mechanic near you for another load of information.