Question about 1988 Dodge Raider

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87 Raider will not turn over

I just got a heck of a deal on an 87 Dodge Raider Auto, 147k. The guy that owned it said that his daughter took it uptown, brought it home, and left for school for 2 weeks. When she came back home, she went to start the truck and it will not turn over, no click, no nothing. The headlights, dome light, and the key in ignition buzzer all work. (ironically enough, the blinkers do not???) I really dont want to dump a ton of money into this unit, so a quick start guide would be appreciated. My mechanics level is probably a 5-6 of 10. What I'm thinking is a starter, starter solenoid, or ignition switch... What do you guys think?? Thanks in advance!!

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  • mnwildfan2k Sep 17, 2009

    I have been unable to test for power at the starter because I cant seem to get 2 people to the vehicle at the same time. I did however order an ignition switch from RockAuto.com for $18 after shipping, I replaced that tonight, and no change. I did notice that the ignition control module? (located behind the steering wheel on the column with the headlight and wiper controls attached to it) Looks as if it came from a yard at some point. Theres yellow paint marker on it that states "Montero" "88" and "8177". Could this have gone bad, causing all of the accessories not to work?

  • mnwildfan2k Sep 19, 2009

    Update. 9/19/09 - Started tinkering with the raider agaon this morning. Found a small black "fuse box" under the hood that has 3 small wires inside it. IGN SW, FUSE B, HEAD. One end of the IGN SW wire was disconnected, and hanging loose. Reconnected and used a test light to verify power on both sides of the wire fuse. Confirmed. Tried to start and when I turned the key, all of the accessories came back to life. Wipers, blinkers, dash lights, radio etc. Sounds like the starter may be siezed. Clicks like it wants to turn over, but to no avail, I still dont have a running truck. I trird rapping on the starter with a ratchet head and that didnt seem to help. Monday I will verify wether or not theres power to the starter or not. I have a mechanic coming to poke around at it Monday afternoon.

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Check down at the starter for 12volts on the ignition lead (thin wire) to see if it has power when the key is in the start position. If so, then its a starter (you can't really change out a solenoid for less than the cost of that starter if its gear reducted, which I think it is). If no signal, then you have a clock spring or ignition switch problem. Your blinkers also run through the ignition switch - FYI - which may present a common failure of 2 or more things on a shared component. Check for the starter voltage from ign switch - it'll tell you all you need to know.

Hope that helps.

Kevin

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

Testimonial: "Sure sounds legit to me!! I'm going to give this a try tomorrow evening! Thanks Kevin, and if this doesn't pan out, expect to hear from me again!! :-)"

  • 97-KMAG Sep 17, 2009

    I am sorry to hear that there was no change, however, keep in mind that used parts can often introduce a new problem into an already puzzling situation. It is tough in your case because not many people stock parts for the Raider's, so used is probably much more accessible than aftermarket or OE parts. Here's what I would suggest. Instead of replacing any more parts, Mitsubishi's are well known for module problems. If you have a schematic, great. Locate the wires going into and out of the module that lead to each failed component. Bypass the module, only with a temporary jumper, one problem at a time and see if each works with 12 volts running to it. Pretty easy to do IF you have access to a wiring schematic. If not, I would go to www.alldatadiy.com and register your vehicle for maybe one month or a year, your choice, and get the info you seek. There should also be a flow chart helping you walk through a "no-crank" situation such as yours.



    If you can't find what you need there, let me know and I will help you locate the info you need. Hope that helps.



    Oh, and one other thing - if you can, supply 12 volts to that starter lead wire (the small one referenced in our earlier talk) and then try to start it. You can even do this up in the column as long as you know which wire it is. That way, we can eliminate that part of the equation.



    Stay with it. Electrical diagnosis, even on some seemingly simple systems can be time consuming, but if you just follow what I'm asking you to do, I will help you through it one step at a time. I have studied and gained tons of knowledge so that I could help others who did not have it or were eager to learn it, not for gloating or chicken-chesting with someone else.



    So long as you are willing to learn, there are plenty of us who enjoy helping others, and, this may be a very good experience for you to figure out some common failure points on your particular vehicle, which may be very helpful in the future and potentially save you a good deal of money. :-)



    Have a great night!



    Kevin

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Well i would suggest , go for a starter..

Posted on Dec 29, 2010

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