Question about 1965 Ford Mustang

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1965 mustang coil problem?

I just bought a 1965 mustang with fully rebuilt engine. I drove it 1300 miles with no issues. Now it won't start. There is power to the coil, but no spark at the distributer/plugs. Do I need a new coil? The engine turns over no problem when trying to start it and there is plently of gas. But no spark. What do I do???

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  • myguinness17 Sep 12, 2009

    Thanks for the input. It already has an electronic timing. No points. All wires look ok. No spark from coil to distributer.

  • myguinness17 Sep 12, 2009

    if the wires are bad to the coil, should i put new ones in that do not have a resistor? I tried taking a wire strait from the + battery terminal to the coil and got a spark. When you say ignition switch, do you mean the starter solenoid? I am new to all of this, sorry.

  • myguinness17 Sep 12, 2009

    golfdude338,

    Thanks for all the info. If the switch is bad, is it hard to replace? Where would I buy a new ignition switch?

    If the switch is good and the wires to the coil are good, then what else could be causing this problem?

  • myguinness17 Sep 12, 2009

    Just got back from working on the stang. The distributer was not turning when we were turning over the engine. So we pulled the distributer and tried turning over the engine and the cam shaft was not turning either. So now we think it is a broken timing chain or that it came loose or something. What do you think?

  • myguinness17 Sep 12, 2009

    Or does it seem like the starter solenoid, coil, or something else blew and that this is all is an electrical problem.?????

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No, I doubt it very much. this is a very good car to learn the basics of cars and how they work. My first car was a 64 Merc comet, and I learned a lot. The first thing to remember on these old cars is , you can't break'em! and when they don't start always look at the points and condeser. The points will on occasion need to be either filed, or replaced as needed, and the gap reset.Also while your in there change the condenser, I never change the points without doing so. Another thing to remember, if you are going through a lot of sets of point you can either get a petronix kit that eliminates the points or put an in line resitor that wil cut down the voltage to the coil. Get yourself a good repair manual, and read! You can find a lot of info at your local library or parts stores have great manuals. You need as a minimum, a timming light, set of feeler gauges, and small set of tools if not already owned.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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  • golfdude338 Sep 12, 2009

    Ok from what you say about electronic already, it sounds like your are either getting no signal from that unit, or for some reason the wires going to coil from ignition switch are bad. the original wires to the coil had a built in resistance to help protect the points from frying. Check these for continuity. also could be the ignition switch itself. You can also test the coil. Go from post to post with ohm meter and see if you have continuity. also check from center term to each post - reading should be aprox half of what you had from post to post. If no continuity between posts or same reading from center post to side term as what you had post to post, coil is bad.

  • golfdude338 Sep 12, 2009

    Ok, you gt a spark-thats good! This tells me that you coil is good!! The wires going to the coil don't need any form of resistor now that you no longer have points so not a worry. The ignition switch that I refer to is the one that is in the dash behind the lock that you turn with your keys. You can check the wires going to the coil with a ohm meter to see if they are good or not before replacing. With the key on in the run postion, you should have fire at the + side of the coil, if you do, the switch is good. This sound more and more like the electronic part that replaced the points may be bad, and not giving a sig to the coil to fire.

  • golfdude338 Sep 12, 2009

    The switch is very easy to change, its on the dash right behind the lock and tumbler assembly.On this model of car you can remove the bezzel from the front of the lock and it will come out the back. You just unplug the harness and take the whole thing out, including the key switch. You can just take the whole thing to the parts store and they will help you swap out the key set. Before wwe go there, I got to thinking about this some more. You say that it has electronic ignition now, did they put in a petronix type set up? or did they add a newer style ford ignition system I.E. a box on the fender and a newer style dist.?

  • golfdude338 Sep 13, 2009

    If it were the solinoid, you wouldn't be cranking over the engine and if it were the coil , you wouldn't have gotten that spark you said you got when you put 12v to it. Did you run the tests I asked you to do with the ohm meter on the coil-= also you have not answered my question on the electronic ignition yet.

  • golfdude338 Sep 13, 2009

    Just read your ost about cam not urning apprently I had skipped over that one sorry. Yes look at the chain for sure.

  • golfdude338 Sep 13, 2009

    Just read your ost about cam not urning apprently I had skipped over that one sorry. Yes look at the chain for sure.

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You need to gap the points, I believe the spec is .015", a company called pertronix makes a solid state kit for those that will save you alot of brain dmage... uses the stock coil too

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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Could be the coil or a crack in the distributor cap try using a spray bottle of water and while cranking the engine spray the cap to see if there is an arch if so the cap is faulty as well can you bend and see any cracks in the plug wires spray them as well ..obviously this will cause your issue but the cap sounds to be the problem also ck the coil wires for corrosion

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

  • Duane Morse
    Duane Morse Sep 12, 2009

    ok if the cam itself is not turning you definitely lost the chain removal of the cover is required to ensure this ...

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