Question about 2006 Volkswagen Jetta

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Coolant leak My coolant light kept going on because i had a heater hose leak. Dealer said the cause of the leak was due to oil drips from the turbo. Then the told me it would be over $2,000 to fix the turbo (not to mention the $360 to replace the heater hose).

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  • ronstoppa386 Sep 12, 2009

    The light kept coming on because of low coolant level due to the heater hose leak. I've never had a leak before. The turbo oil made the heater hose swell, then crack...i would think it would take months for it to crack! Anyway, the heater hose was fixed. Only one drop of oil from the turbo in 30 hours...i would think that's minor?

  • Kirk Augustin
    Kirk Augustin May 11, 2010

    First, the light should not keep coming on, and you can't drive it until that is completely fixed. If you had a hose leak before, you may have over heated and caused the thermostat to go bad. Replace the thermostat. Make sure you bleed the air out of the system. Don't fix the turbo drip if it is small, just buy that plastic hose sleeve material they sell, to protect the hose from the oil. If you do need to fix the turbo, take it to a big semi truck place, because they can fix a turbo for cheap.



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WOW! that's pretty darn hefty no matter who ya are. Are you loosing very much oil? If not at least get the heater hose replaced(but not from these guys) And while its at a independent shop, have them look at that turbo oil leak-yes should be repaired, turbos don't like to run without oil, but could be just a loose line. Check with friends, family, and neighbors to see who they recommend to work on your car. I don't know were you live, but I would bet that there is a foreign car specialist around.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

  • golfdude338 Sep 12, 2009

    Yes, a few drops in thirty hours is very minor indeed. Can you see were the oil is coming from? is it a seal or a line? if line can you tighten it up? if seal you may need to get turbo repaired some time in future. In mean time though, i would try to protect the heater hose in some fasion just to keep from replacing it again so soon. You could always build some form of sheild to keep the oil off of it, something as simple as a peice of hose a little bigger than original, split down center placed over your hose and eithe held on with hose clamps or wire ties. This would be a sacrificial hose that would keep the oil off the important hose.


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Repair shop costs have risen considerably over my past 34 years in the industry Yes...if you are fairly confident a heater hose is sold by the foot and as well if the clamps are rusty etc,,they are a few dollars .as fro the turbo they too are sold and fairly easy to install but call around for a price from an auto-parts store be sure to fill the turbo with the recommended oil before installing

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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Get a 2nd opinion from a trusted BMW, Volvo, Mercedes Benz or VW aftermarket shop. You'll thank me later, but DO NOT tell them what the dealer told you before they tell you what their diagnosis is.

Let them start from scratch. That way you get an honest answer and an honest diagnostic.


Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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Possibility of a cracked block. how can i be sure/

Vehicles: Any with the above symptoms

A cracked cylinder block will cause either:
(a) motor oil contamination of engine coolant
(b) coolant contamination of motor oil
(c) white exhaust smoke, due to coolant seeping into one or more cylinders.
(d) more than one of the above
(e) all of the above

Oil infiltrating into coolant is easy to see - drain some coolant out through the pepcock at the bottom of the radiator, and place it into a styrofoam coffee cup. Oil droplets floating on top of the green (or orange) coolant are easily seen. Or visualize oil by looking into the top of the radiator through the radiator cap.
Coolant infiltrating into and mixing with motor oil will permanently damage the engine (seizing it up through loss of lubrication), and must be prevented.
A leak from above the front suspension is, as physicians like to put it, "nonspecific", with the most likely cause a water pump seal or hose/hose connection.
A leak from near the fire wall will usually be a heater core hose, or hose connection.
A coolant leak on the same side of the engine as the water pump is a leaking water pump or water pump seal until proven otherwise.

To rule out everythng else, here's the 1999 Honda CR-V Troubleshooting Guide for Coolant Loss/Coolant Leaking:

Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Water Pump - Worn, Cracked or Leaking Water Pump, or Water Pump gasket.
2 Inspect Head Gasket - Leaking Head Gasket.
3 Inspect Radiator - Leaking Radiator Hose(s).
4 Inspect Radiator Cap - Worn or Damaged Radiator Cap.
5 Inspect Radiator Hose - Ruptured, Cracked or Leaking Radiator Hose.
6 Inspect Freeze Plug - Leaking Freeze Plug(s).
7 Inspect Intake Manifold Gasket - Leaking, Worn, or Damaged Intake Manifold Gasket.
8 Inspect Water Outlet - Cracked, Leaking or Damaged Water Outlet.
9 Inspect Heater Control Valve - Leaking or Faulty Heater Control Valve.
10 Inspect Radiator Drain Pepcock - Loose, Damaged, or Faulty Radiator Drain Pepcock, or Pepcock O-ring.
11 Inspect Engine (DOMESTIC ONLY) - Cracked Cylinder Block Leaking Coolant into at least one Cylinder, causing white exhaust smoke.

Dec 03, 2011 | 1999 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

I have a 1990 chevy beretta with a 3.1 and im having trouble with it losing coolant and overheating it dosent seem to be any gaskets but i cant tell where the leak is coming from i do know that the coolant...

there are some coolant heater hoses right above the exhaust manifolds check those, also check engine oil for discoloration due to coolant contamination. may have moisture on dipstick, oil may look like a chocolate shake texture. if so then most likely internal intake gasket leakage.the best way to check for hose leakage is to pressure test the coolant system if possible.

Sep 06, 2011 | Chevrolet Beretta Cars & Trucks

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1998 dodge stratus wont blow hot air and constantly over heats if im not mistake the coolant is leaking bcuz i have to refill every two or 3 days when the car starts to over heat, funny thing tho is when...

Sounds like you have a bad coolant leak that needs addressing before major engine damage occurs. The heater wont blow hot air if the coolant level is low as the coolant heats the heater core. There could also be air locks in the hoses and core. The check engine light will come on when the level is low as the coolant temp sensor will not work corectly with low coolant or an overheated engine. sometimes there is a coolant level sensor in the system too. I sugest tracking the coolant loss asap. If this is helpfull please vote. Jeff

Mar 08, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

I was just wondering if you could help me out. I have 1998 Caviler 2.2, the coolant light came on about three days ago so I filled the coolant tank and the light still is on. .

There are a few things that could be going on. The Coolant Light doesn't only mean that the coolant is low. I've had this happen to me on a number of occasions with my 98 cavalier. It first started with a rusted out heater core, caused by using the orange coolant. If you have orange coolant in your car, flush it and put the green coolant in. The orange will eat away at your system. You could also have a leak somewhere in the hoses or maybe the cap isn't fitting right. Another thing to look for is dripping coolant. If there is coolant dripping from a little hose that comes out of the firewall behind the engine, that is the heater core. Check around the waterpump too. Not just a quick glance, look all around it to see if there's any coolant. If there is, you probably need a new waterpump. A heater core, and water pump are both under $50 if not $30 each at your local automotive store. Those repairs can cost around $600 each. Do it yourself and save money.

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3 Answers

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my '01 Jetta had a similar problem. I could always smell coolant and the bottle was always low. I crawled under the car and there it was..a caked on mess of pink antifreeze. There is a plastic intersection 3 way valve where the coolant temp sensor resides. it has 2 bolts and a rubber o-ring. Because it is plastic, it cracks. it drips down onto areas which are really not visible from above and then sizzles and melts onto areas under the engine. The part was only about $25, took 30 min to install and my problem is now fixed. Air was getting into the system through the small crack in the valve further complicating the system operation.

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3 Answers

2002 malibu runs hot.

Sounds like you have a faulty head gasket or maybe a cracked head.This can cause overheating and the check engine light to come on.The code for the o2 sensor is probably caused by coolant getting into the exhaust system and coating the sensor.The coolant fan may work but it cannot remove enough heat from the rad to make the engine cool off.Try some engine coolant stop leak to see if it will help.This maybe only a temperary fix.Let me know if you need more.MOE

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1 Answer

Loosing antifreeze


Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling from the leaky component. Open the hood and visually inspect the engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green, orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The most common places where coolant may be leaking are:
Water pump -- A bad shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or engine.

Radiator -- Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place where leaks frequently develop, especially on aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks. On copper/brass radiators, leaks typically occur where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. Internal corrosion caused by old coolant that has never been changed can also eat through the metal in the radiator, causing it to leak.

Most cooling systems today are designed to operate at 8 to 14 psi. If the radiator can't hold pressure, your engine will overheat and lose coolant.

Hoses -- Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up.

Freeze plugs -- These are the casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head. The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and may develop leaks that are hard to see because of the plug's location behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.

Heater Core -- The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you cannot see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the floor inside the passenger compartment. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.

Intake Manifold gasket -- The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 50,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.

There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.

Bad head gasket --Internal coolant leaks are most often due to a bad head gasket. The head gasket may leak coolant into a cylinder, or into the crankcase. Coolant leaks into the crankcase dilute the oil and can damage the bearings in your engine. A head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder can foul the spark plug, and create a lot of white smoke in the exhaust. Adding sealer to the cooling system may plug the leak if it is not too bad, but eventually the head gasket will have to be replaced.

If you suspect a head gasket leak, have the cooling system pressure tested. If it fails to hold pressure, there is an internal leak. A "block tester" can also be used to diagnose a leaky head gasket. This device draws air from the cooling system into a chamber that contains a special blue colored leak detection liquid. Combustion gases will react with the liquid and cause it to change color from blue to green if the head gasket is leaking.

Head gasket failures are often the result of engine overheating (which may have occurred because of a coolant leak elsewhere in the cooling system, a bad thermostat, or an electric cooling fan not working). When the engine overheats, thermal expansion can crush and damage portions of the head gasket. This damaged areas may then start to leak combustion pressure and/or coolant.

Cracked Head or Block -- Internal coolant leaks can also occur if the cylinder head or engine block has a crack in a cooling jacket. A combustion chamber leak in the cylinder head or block will leak coolant into the cylinder. This dilutes the oil on the cylinder walls and can damage the piston and rings. If the coolant contains silicates (conventional green antifreeze), it can also foul the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. If enough coolant leaks into the cylinder (as when the engine is sitting overnight), it may even hydro-lock the engine and prevent it from cranking when you try to start it. Internal leaks such as these can be diagnosed by pressure testing the cooling system or using a block checker.

A coolant leak into the crankcase is also bad news because it can damage the bearings. Coolant leaking into the crankcase will make the oil level on the dipstick appear to be higher than normal. The oil may also appear frothy, muddy or discolored because of the coolant contamination.

Leaky ATF oil cooler -- Internal coolant leakage can also occur in the automatic transmission fluid oil cooler inside the radiator. On most vehicles with automatic transmissions, ATF is routed through an oil cooler inside the radiator. If the tubing leaks, coolant can enter the transmission lines, contaminate the fluid and ruin the transmission. Red or brown drops of oil in the coolant would be a symptom of such a leak. Because the oil cooler is inside the radiator, the radiator must be replaced to eliminate the problem. The transmission fluid should also be changed.


Mar 12, 2010 | 2007 Hummer H3X

1 Answer

Heater takes to long to get hot and water is dripping form dashboaerd on passenger side i have a 2000 grand jeep cherokee

Sounds like one of two things are happening. Either the hose going to the heater core (on the engine side of the dash) is leaking causing coolant to spray into the passenger compartment or your heater core is leaking which is causing the dripping from the passenger side of the dash. This would also cause a loss of coolant in the engine which would cause the engine to overheat and not enough coolant to get to the heater core to supply heat to the passenger compartment. Check your coolant level (while engine is cold) and refill it with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water after you tighten the leaking hose or replace the heater core.Then start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature. Again let it cool down and then top off the radiator with the 50/50 mix of coolant. Do not under any circumstances open the radiator cap while the engine is hot.

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1 Answer

Hi i have a 20 passat 20v turbo ,runs good,dont

good likely hood that your oil cooler is leaking oil into coolant this is something you want to replace as soon as possible. you will have to flush your coolant system several times to get as much of the oil out as possible. if you wait you will have severe temp issues as well as not heat due to a clogged heater core. and that is very hard to replace. To flush system hook garden hose to the larger hose of the coolant reservoir get car up to temp. keep idle up a little. get large bucket from the smaller hose that goes into the reservoir hook small hose to it and let it empty into bucket keep hose running thru all the time. before that though replace oil cooler. also replace coolant reservoir as well. or oil will contaminate new coolant. good luck

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2 Answers

Radiator coolant loss due to evaporation

I had a problem like that in an old Mercury Sable I owned. I had to periodically add a bit of coolant because it was disappearing and not dripping anywhere. I found out what was causing the problem on a cold winter day, a short (6") hose going from the water pump to the engine burst. Don't wait until a hose bursts.

Likely the coolant is going one of a few places. It's escaping from a pinhole in a hose somewhere, going into the engine's cylinders (blown/leaking head gasket), going into the crankcase and mixing with the oil, etc. Probably the best way to start diagnosis is to add special dye to the cooling system and use a black light to see if there's an external leak in the system. If not you can pull the spark plugs and check them to see if coolant is going into the cylinders (coolant does a good job of cleaning carbon off the inside of the combustion chamber). Well that should be good for starters. Good luck!

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