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If the battery connections at the starter are secure it is likely the solenoid is defective on the new starter.
When attempting to start monitor the battery voltage. If the voltage only changes sightly still above 12 volts it is likely that the starter motor is not getting power. Confirm that the starter solenoid is being powered when attempting to start.
all battery connections to the starter are secure
and power is applied to the starter solenoid
and no crank above 12 volts
these combined conditions will confirm that the new starter is defective.
If car wont start and clicking sound is heard this is a battery related or starter related, if your car battery is in good condition (which I think it was) then the problem is your starter, have it check to confirm.
The problem you have is with your starter motor, or the wiring involved with the starter motor. I assume the battery is in good condition. What you have in the starter motor is 2 sets of windings, 1 is to throw the pinion out to contact the flywheel. The second is to turn the starter motor to turn the engine over to start. The 1st set are activated by pins that can burn out over time. I do not know the age of the vehilce and thats why this is more of a guidleine, than a 100%diagnosis. If the starter is good, then low current will cause the 1st set of windings to kick in, but the 2nd set will not have enough current to rotate a stationary engine. Firstly, make sure that the battery is good, and that the earth wire and the positive feed wire to the starter are good. If good, then remove and replace the starter,
Note : becuase it only happens rarely, i am going to lean towards the starter fault, as this can tend to become more frequent, as the pins wear more and more,
Get the battery checked at any auto supply store first to measure it's cold cranking amps. Usually, in my personal experience, it's the starter on it's way out. I even took out my starter and had it tested and it tested fine. I put it back in and nothing. Convinced, I replaced it, end of problem.
Probably a bad starter as well. A good battery can make a marginal starter work, but over time the battery will be weakened by the drain of the starter or the starter will get worse.
Remove the starter and take it to your local parts store for testing and replacement. Bring your battery along as the bad starter might have toasted it.
Also a bad battery can wear out a starter quickly.
We had issues like this with our pickup truck a few years back. Replaced the battery, worked okay for a while, then the replaced the starter, worked okay for a while, then the battery was bad. Eventually replaced both and haven't had any issues since.
So when replacing one it is a good idea to check the other.
Just the fact that it eventually starts points me toward the solenoid (and not the starter).
Question on the "clicking": When you turn the key, do you get one solid click or a series of rapid fire clicks?
One solid click is the solenoid. It's not transferring power to the starter. These are a LOT cheaper to replace than the starter or battery.
Rapid fire is a weak battery. You can confirm this by getting a 'Load Test' at an Auto Parts or Battery store. This simulates the load of an engine starting on your battery. It takes 5 seconds, the results are Pass or Fail.
do you mean engine rolled over or cranked over and would not start?or is it that the starter would just click? or did starter sound like it was wineing and you had to keep on and off the key until it findley started? if any of your answers to thies questions is yes (except first question) its time for a new starter. as far as the grinding noise don't worry about it, that's what makes me believe its the starter. install new starter, problem solved.