Question about 1990 Toyota Tercel
I have a 91 rodeo with a 4zd1 engine. Had the engine going when we first got it running but fuel pump was leaking so replaced that, but now it wont start at all and we were told this was due to the ignitor module in the distributor not doing its job anymore so we replaced that....now when you turn it over it tends to backfire through the carby or the exhaust. Already checked the timing and it seems to be set right, any ideas of what else it could be?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
does it have a cold start injector seperate from the other injectors usually on the upper intake somewhere with a fuel line going to it
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
in your carburetor there is a priming passage. look in there with the air cleaner out and pump the butterfly it should squirt gas. if it doesn't then you need to open the top part of the carb and clean the hole with a hair clip. if this is not the problem it will be the choke but I'm 70 percent that this is the problem.
Posted on May 25, 2009
Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?
Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)
If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
Testimonial: "Fantastic! Thanks for the insight and suggestions!"
if it ran fine before belt change, you maybe off a tooth,I've been off a tooth with same engine had same symptoms along with erratic acceleration and poor gas mileage. Took off top cover, lined up no.1 tdc. and I was off 1 tooth at camshaft hole. was able to adjust without dismanteling everything. Loosen idler and you can get enough play to turn cam one cog. hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
Same problem with my 1995 Tacoma. Took it to a dealer and they come up with the coolant temp sensor was bad. It was telling the computer something was wrong with the coolant temp (even though the gauge was mid line). The computer starts to idle the engine high and wouldn't let it start untin the coolant temp cooled off. They replaced the sensor this afternoon. I drove it about 60 miles or so then shut it off. It starts fine now. It'll take a few weeks to actually trust it but it seems like it works fine now.
Posted on Oct 02, 2010
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