Question about 1997 Toyota RAV4

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Few slight problems in 1997 toyota rav4: occasional rattling noise in engine compartment. Clunk or grind when down shifting to first gear with clutch fully pressed. Shifter shakes and can be pulled to neutral in fifth gear without clutch.

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1st to do,check transmission oil level

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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  • Master
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Hi there
Your rattling noise in engine bay ,dose it do it only when you start up, and if so dose the rattle go when the oil light on dash goes out, If yes then its either Low in oil/your parking on a slope/engine bearings worn/oil filter change and change oil to 30/50 oil.
you should only downshift to 1st whan stopped but you can change up and down the g/box without a clutch with correct Revs

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Rav4 Automatic Transmission Jerks into Second


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My 1999 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 makes a clunking noise and feels like it got rear ended if I drive it for an hour or so non stop. It seems to be when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear. I had the ******...


No one can tell you what it is.This is the operating characteristic of your transmission and customer do object to the noise or clunk and dealer discourage the repair. This is TSB 03-07-29-004G. Let me give you a partial copy. INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 03-07-29-004G
Date: December 15, 2010
Subject: Manual Transmission Operating Characteristics
Cold Operation
Manual transmission operation will be affected by temperature because the transmission fluid will be thicker when cold. The thicker fluid will increase the amount of force needed to shift the transmission when cold. The likelihood of gear clash will also increase due to the greater time needed for the synchronizer assembly to perform its function. Therefore when the transmission is cold, or before it has reached operating temperature, quick, hard shifts should be avoided to prevent damage to the transmission.
Backlash
Backlash noise is created when changing engine or driveline loading. This can occur when accelerating from a stop, coming to a stop, or applying and releasing the throttle (loading and unloading the driveline). This will vary based on vehicle type, build variations, driver input, vehicle loading, etc. and is created from the necessary clearance between all of the mating gears in the transmission, axle(s) and transfer case (if equipped).
Shift Effort
Shift effort will vary among different style transmissions and synchronizer designs. Usually the more heavy duty the transmission, the higher the shift effort because of the increased mass of the components. Shift effort can also be higher in cold weather because the fluid will be thicker. Medium duty transmissions will not shift as quickly as a Corvette transmission. To reduce shift effort, do not attempt to rush the shift - allow the synchronizers to work as designed. Shifting harder will only increase the chance of rushing past the synchronizer leading to grinding while shifting.
Non-Synchronized Gears
Some light duty truck transmissions in 1st gear (creeper-gear) and reverse gears in various transmissions, along with all gears in some medium duty transmissions, may be non-synchronized. This means there is not a mechanism to match input and output shaft speeds to allow for a smooth shift. This function is left up to the driver. This can be noticed if a shift into 1st or reverse is attempted while the vehicle is rolling or before the input shaft stops rotating leading to a gear grind. The grinding can be reduced by coming to a complete stop and pausing for a moment before shifting into the 1st or reverse gear. Some slight grinding can be expected. In medium duty non-synchronized transmissions, the driver must match input shaft (engine) speed to output shaft (driveshaft) speed with every shift. This can be accomplished by double clutching, or by using other methods. If the driver is not able to perform this function properly, there will be gear grinding with each improperly completed shift. Driver training may be required to correct this condition. Clutch brakes are used in medium duty non-synchronized transmissions to allow a shift into gear at a stop. The clutch brake is used to stop the input shaft from spinning, allowing a shift into gear at a stop without grinding. The clutch brake is activated by pressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor. When the clutch brake is used, it is possible to have a blocked shift with the vehicle stationary. If this occurs, engage the clutch slightly to rotate the input gear to allow the shift. The clutch brake is intended to only be used while at a stop. Care must be taken to not activate the clutch brake while shifting between gears. This could lead to excessive grinding or a blocked or missed shift.

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It sounds like you are dealing with a transmission issue. When metal heats up, it expands. This would be the reason as to why the noise eventually goes away. Your gearing is slipping and will eventually give out. I would take it to someone I trusted an have them drain the transmission of it's fluid and have them look for metal shavings. This usually shows up when the vehicle has been mis-treated or has been put under severely heavy loads and it being pulled uphill. Inexperienced drivers don't know how to use the vehicle gears correctly and this eats the sprockets within the transmission slap out.

Hope this helps.

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HI, I own a 1997 Toyota Rav 4 4 wheel drive 4 cyl, the other day it started to make this loud noise coming from the front sounds like a grinding noise, when you put the clutch in the sound goes away any...


it sounds like it is either your clutch or the throw out bearing. either way you more than likely need to have to install a complete clutch kit (pressure plate, clutch disc, throw out bearing, and have your flywheel resurfaced.

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1 Answer

I have a 1997 toyota rav4 manual 4X4 , Everytime I shift up into 4th gear it does a slight grind but it doesn't do it down shifting.


Sounds like you have a scrinco stuck or worn out and the way you will get away with out grinding till you can get it done is to drive it like the old cars and trucks and that is to double de clutch between 3rd and 4th
all you do is to clutch in pull into nutural clutch out and in again fast and in to 4th gear (simple).

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