Question about 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country

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1993 jeep cherokee

Front right brakes locks. Changed the brake lines as well as the master cylinder,and the calipers.,bled the lines. car drove great fro 15 miles and then the right brake froze up again. was told by Jeep Dealer that it was the hydraulic repositioning valve.. does that soung right?

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  • jonvijon Sep 11, 2009

    thanks . it is the proportioning valve. would this make a difference? Dealer wanted to charge $600.00.got one from auto salvage for $20.00 put in on late last night but have not driven yet.
    the passenger side smoked like crazy and the caliper locked.
    seems like the caliper is closing but not opening up. we did put a new one on the passenger side.
    should we change the caliper on the drivers side.?
    thanks so much,

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  • Jeep Master
  • 2,002 Answers

It also sounds like a more likely problem is a seized caliper on the left side. If a caliper seizes, the braking system transfers the pedal pressure to the other caliper thus, the working caliper locks up. Pull both front wheels and look carefully at the wear on the pads. Both wheels should have the same amount of wear. If one side is worn more than the other, the side with the least wear is seized and needs to be changed.
Never heard of a hydraulic repostioning valve, but maybe with ABS there is one. I do know of a proportioning valve which apportions brake pressure front to back and also blocks braking to front or back in the event of brake line failure. Maybe see which he is talking about, should be able to explain the difference. Hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

  • cy schousboe Sep 12, 2009

    Keep a close eye on brake pad wear, if they are wearing evenly on both sides, leave the driver's side alone. If it wears more than the passenger side then you'll have to change it as well. Glad I could help.

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The front drivers side break keeps locking. I have replaced the caliper and now when I pump it no fluid is coming out from the line.


Did air get into the master cylinder? If you can, try bleeding the master cylinder. The fact that you aren't getting any fluid out of the line suggests that the master cylinder isn't pumping fluid.

Master cylinders are (usually) on a split circuit system - that is, the front left brake is on the same line as the rear right. The front right brake is on the same circuit as the rear left.

A point to be aware of is when bleeding brakes/doing brake work and if the master cylinder runs dry, is that a seal inside the master cylinder can fail/twist over and not pressurise that particular line, even though it may pressurise the opposite brake line.

I'm in the UK. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 litre, which I am slowly rebuilding. Three weeks ago I fitted new front brake rotors, new front callipers and pads. I've been rebuilding cars for over 40 years now and have done countless brake overhauls.

.. and could I get a hard pedal after the job was completed? I must have bled the brakes three times a day for a week and couldn't get a brake pedal. I phoned a full time mechanic I know - he came and tried to bleed the brakes three times and couldn't get a hard pedal.

That's when you think 'The master cylinder was working before I started the job so it must be still working now'.

I fitted a brand new master cylinder and because some parts for older jeeps are hard to come by in the UK, I fitted a second hand proportioning valve. When I bled the brakes again the pedal became rock solid. Fixed.

You're probably fed up with your braking problem now ... and apparently this 'no fluid/brake pedal' is more common than you may think.

Try bleeding the master cylinder if you can. If you suspect that it isn't fully working - try an overhaul kit which is cheaper than a new master cylinder.

As for changing the proportioning valve .. that's your decision. My brakes now work though the truth is I don't actually know which was at fault as I changed both the master cylinder and proportioning valve at the same time. Maybe both were at fault, for whatever reason. I genuinely don't know.

The positive aspect is that you are doing your own work and know what you're doing. You're saving on labour charges.

Apr 18, 2016 | 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

2 Answers

1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee brake pedal goes all the way to the floor. Recently replaced calipers and master cylinder and bled the whole system. Brake pedal goes all the way to the floor when first pushed...


Not bleed properly
or you have a rusted out line (leak)

There is NO Procedure-- that when driving a
vehicle or bleeding brakes,do you ever pump them

Dec 03, 2014 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

2001 Silverado 2500 HD Why Rear brakes don't work after I installed new hydro-boost power booster, master cylinder, calipers, and pads. I bled master cylinder before installing, and brakes beginn


Hello Patricia,

Have you checked the master brake cylinder reservoir for brake fluid loss?

I don't suspect the master cylinder as you have replaced it... but am more suspect of a leaking brake line or fitting which should have
been discovered when you had the system bled.

The only time I ever had a rear brake problem with a 2500 series Chevrolet was due to seized rear brake caliper guide pins...as your calipers are also new that is not your problem.

If your brake pedal feels spongy and travels to the floor board you have air in the system, a brake fluid leak or a failure in the power steering system, such as a broken hose, broken power steering pump drive belt, or failed pump, would result in a loss of pressure to both the hydro-boost and steering.

Find more information here:

. Hydro Boost Power Assist Systems Operation Diagnosis and Repair

Jul 23, 2017 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD

1 Answer

Brakes go to floor i changed master,4 calipers,4 brake hoses, and all pads


Time to redo the bleeding of the system again...starting with the master cylinder...you do not have to remove the master to re-bleed it. disconnect both brake lines from the master, and start again by pushing pedal to floor, and rebleed each line at the master...this is critical to work properly...you mentioned new master cylinder, if remanufactured I would return it. As noted above, after confirming the master is fully bled...rebleed each caliper beginning with the rear, farthest away from the master...you must have "air" in the brake lines. Hope this helps.

Apr 03, 2012 | 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Changed front brakes on 2000 grand cherokee, bled brakes, and pedal seems spongier than normal


You still have air in the brakes,start at the master cylinder,then the rear,right wheel,left rear,and right front,then the left front.Make sure the calipers are releasing completely ,if they are not,then a brake hose could be bad.

Feb 04, 2010 | 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Pistons in both front calipers stay out, both calipers replaced


You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

Aug 24, 2009 | 1993 Oldsmobile Achieva

3 Answers

Brakes are still spongy after changing the pads, one caliper, and master cylinder. bled front brakes.


I just went to Brake Masters this morning and had them replace the Master Cylinder since I was experiencing the pedal very spongy and going to the floor. When they replaced the Master Cylinder and they gave me back the car, the brakes were still spongy and going to the floor. I addressed this to them and they took another look at it, but when I took it for a second time, the brakes were extremely spongy. It was almost like they gave me back my car in worst condition to when I brought it in. Can you help?

May 21, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Front brakes locking up


Sounds like the front brake hoses went bad on you. Fluid goes into the calipers and builds up pressure, and applies the brakes, because the fluid can't come back out of the calipers. Usually when hoses go, they tear on the inside, creating a one way valve type of flap. I hope that this helped. Best wishes to ya.
Bryon

Jan 26, 2009 | 1993 Jeep Cherokee Country

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