I have had both batteries checked and they both are reading 12.45 volts, the starter was benched checked at Autozone and the bendex comes out and spins and I've had a relay on the fender well checked and it too was good. When I try to start the truck all I hear is a clicking noise. That's it! No trying to turn over or anything. Could it be the starter or a bad ignition switch? Please help!
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but there are some checks to do first
using a multimeter check the voltage at the main terminal of the starter solenoid
check the voltage at the small terminal and check it then with the key in the start position
if you have a relay for the starter check the voltage at the terminals of the relay from the switch to the relay and from the relay to the starter
check for fuses in the start circuit
if you have 24 volts every where then , pull the starter for a bench test by an accredited auto electrician
Check the battery for volts. You can have your lights but not enough to start. should read 12 or more volts. if not remove battery cables from posts clean posts back to silver color all the way around and charge.
Clean the cables where they connect to posts till silver. Wire brush or file it
reconnect and make sure there tight and try start
if no start follow the battery cables and clean and tighten at starter and ground to frame.
no start then test solenoid and bench test starter.
What are you working on? Make, model, etc. Check the wires for corrosion as they can cause symptoms of a weak starter. Also, was the engine acting irregular prior to the starter problem. Bad bearings can cause this too. Wouldn't hurt to bench test the starter. Just because its new doesn't mean it good. thanks
The early GM products would build up restance in the wire that went from the alternator to the starter. The easy cure for this is to install a 10 guage wire directly from the Alternator Batt. lug directly to the battery postive post. Do this using the correct end connectors.. do not just wrap the wire around the termanel. This was a big problem on these cars. especially the Diesel cars. Always disconnect the battery ground terminal before you work on this.
First make sure you can turn engine over with a socket and that it is not seized. Second if engine checks out fine does the starter just click with the ignition key? If it does perform what is called a voltage drop test on the starter cables. Connect a volt meter on each end of the cable you are testing you should read no more that a half a volt drop when loading the circuit. If cables check out fine pull the starter and have it bench tested at an auto parts store. But be carefull bench testing can show a starter is ok with out putting a load on it, if it still shows good on the bench you still may need to replace it. If you don't get a click with the key check for 12 volts at the starter connector unplugged, if no trace starter wire noting color code back through the starter safety switch back to the ignition switch.
I was having the same problem with my 2004 9-3. I assumed the starter was bad and replaced it. I then charged the battery and found it wouldn't fully charge. After charging for several hours when I removed the charger I only showed 11 volts at battery posts. The new battery tested 12.8 volts and the car started well. With the car idling I tested and showed 14.6 volts at the battery post which confirmed my alternator was charging.
I do believe I replaced the starter in error and that it was just a bad battery. When my battery was failing I had dim headlights and flashing displays that you described and the clicking noises also. When I put jumper cables on my saab and let the bad battery charge for several minutes the car would start right up and the headlights would brighten up and even though the battery was bad the idle voltage at the battery posts was increased to 14.6 volts coming from the alternator.
Remember to remove the jumper cables quickly once the car starts to avoid possible electrical problems.
I have had bad starters in other vehicles that would draw a huge load on the battery and jump starting them would sometimes give enough voltage to turn the engine over and start it.
Bench tests aren't always correct because the components aren't under a true load. I had a brand new alternator fresh out of the box last year that was bad and wouldn't put out good voltage even though it bench tested perfect. Go figure.
Check your battery voltage with the engine off. It should read over 12 volts if its charged.
Hello! Disable ignition by unplugging the coil wire...Using a volt meter place positive lead on the positive terminal of the battery...place the other lead on the battery lead of the starter...Turn the key to start...If you read .5volts or higher there is a high resistance in the starter cables or ground cables...
Have your battery charged and load tested to make sure it's OK. Then check the charging system and alternator drive belt for tension and condition. If car won't staqrt after charge, you may need to remove alternator to have it tested on a bench. Otherwise, put a volt meter across both terminals. With engine off, volts should be 12 or higher. Running should be 13,5-14V running with all lights, heater and A?C on should not drop lower than 12.8v.Low readings running indicate a bad alternator. If everything in charging system checks out OK, problem is likely in the starter or starter relay.
Take a volt meter and put the red probe of the meter on the engine block and the black probe on the battery Negative terminal. Have somone try to crank the car. If you get a reading of over 1/2 volt, you have a bad ground from the battery to the Engine block. Check the terminals on both ends of this wire.
If the above is OK, Put the volt meter on the battery terminals. (Red to Positive) and try cranking the car. If the voltage falls well below 9.6V your battery is bad. If 9.6 V or more, you may have somthing binding in the engine. When did this car run last?