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This is a known problem with camaro's up to 2002.Inside the stering wheel column a wire breaks going to the ignition cylinder from you turning the car on and off.
They need a strain relief on the wire going to the cyclinder that completes your key chip to the cyclinder.. you can fix the open yourself by fixing the the broken wire... lot of work.Or if you replace the key cyclinder , but you have to blow a new key and your chevrolet dealer is the only people that can do this..My 2002 z was covered. $50.00 deductable... saved...
1 26033387 cylinder 2.188 $131.15
1 26019403 key ign L 2.187 $29.34
1 26019403 key ign L 2.18 $29.34
Labor $319.00
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Does the motor turn over at all or is it like the starter is dead?
If its like the starter is dead and the motor does not turn over then you may have an issue with the VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System in 89+ Camaros/Firebirds). The weak link of the system are the two wires on the ignition lock cylinder. They tend to break after while since they move every time you turn the key. Banging on the wheel may have jarred them enough to make contact for a moment.
A simple and cheap fix would be to bypass the keys resistor. There is a small plug near the bottom of the column under the dash. The plug will have an orange sleeve with two small thin wires. Usually white, yellow or even black wires. Measure the resistance of the pelet in the key and then insert the key in the ignition, unplug the small connector and measure the resistance between the two wires on. (column side of the harness and not the side that goes to the main harness) If resistance is different and by more than just a small amount then there is a break in the wires.
Cut the harness off on the column side and use that plug and with the length of wire to attach resistors to. Buy some resistors that will equal the resitance (or very close) of they key. Attach them from one wire to the other and plug that back in. Everything should work then. Or replace the lock cylinder and key but that is a bit more costly. While technically this is not a VATS bypass people seem to call it that. If you search the web for it you should be able to find diagrams on how to do this.
Check for a break in the wiring harness before checking fuses. It would be unusual for several fuses to blow at once without there being an underlying problem such as a short in the loom, or a break in the circuit. There should be a multi-connector somewhere close to the column that joins the harness that runs up the column to the rest of the wiring. This could have come loose, or the connection inside the steering wheel could be damaged.
There is a piece of forged metal that is called a rack that attaches to a rod that gies down to the bottom of the column to the Ignition switch these racks have been known to break and jamb up and I have also seen Ignition switches jamb also. Go to the base of the column and remove the switch and see if the key lock cylinder moves all the way now. Then trace your problem to either a jambed Ignition switch or a bad rack and rod.
try the lights with the tilt wheel in the up position. If the low beam works then, a wire has pulled out of the connector on the mutipurpose switch inside the steering column. remove the covers behind the steering wheel on the column and there is a large multi wire plug with many wires. it should be obvious which wire has pulled out or broken.
this system can be tested for codes, I would suggest you have the dealer do this test, all the parts are very expensive so guessing is not a good idea. most probale cause is a wheel motion sensor on the steering column.
Unfortunately your key has a chip in it which prevents anyone from hot-wiring it. Did the key break off inside the ignition cylinder on the column? If so, you should be able to turn the car on right?. If you have to replace the ignition cylinder you must have the key in the cylinder to remove the old one. I wish I could see this up close so that I could fix it for you. Keep me posted please.
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