Question about 1996 Mazda 626

1 Answer

We changed spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, distributor button, etc. We unbolted the entire distributor assembly and pulled it out from the engine. We now can't get the car to start or run. How do I fix?

Posted by on

  • 2 more comments 
  • sethbowers Sep 10, 2009

    Thank you for the description. I believe I understand. Just a couple questions though. When looking at the engine, is the #1 cylinder the one on the far left or right? Also, do I just keep turning the engine with my keys until it points that way? And can you clarify how I know the Gear shaft is "pointed"? Thanks. Sorry for all the questions...I wanna make sure I do this right though.

  • sethbowers Sep 10, 2009

    Thank you for the description. I believe I understand. Just a couple questions though. When looking at the engine, is the #1 cylinder the one on the far left or right? Also, do I just keep turning the engine with my keys until it points that way? And can you clarify how I know the Gear shaft is "pointed"? Thanks. Sorry for all the questions...I wanna make sure I do this right though.

  • sethbowers Sep 10, 2009

    OK - I think I got it now. I will work on this when I get home from work. I will post on here my results. Thanks for the info! Keep your fingers crossed!

  • sethbowers Sep 11, 2009

    Good Afternoon
    I tinkered with it some last night. I got it running, although it is running very rough. It actually cut off on me while I took it for a quick spin around the neigborhood. I didn't have much time last night, but I will work on it again this evening. I have the plug wires in the right position. I was actually smart enough to mark them and then change them one at a time. Too bad I didn't think to do that with the Distributor shaft. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the help.


1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 1,187 Answers

Does "entire distributor aseembly" include the metal gear shaft??
If so, you must remove the distributor again and re-insert it in the proper gear groove.
Normally, you "mark" the distributor and the engine with a marker before you remove the shaft so that you can replace it so the gears mesh in the correct position.

You can use "trial and error" to reposition the distributor or you can:

1. Turn the engine to the "Top Dead Center" (TDC) position so that the distributor rotor points to the #1 cylinder sparkplug wire.
2. The rotor on the distributor shafdt should be positioned to "point" to the #1 sparkplug wire.
3. Re-insert the distributor gear shaft.

Please comment if you need better detail...

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Just Gort
    Just Gort Sep 10, 2009

    1. number 1 cylinder is the one nearest the fanbelt and pulleys.

    2. yes, use your ignition key to "bump" the engine a little (less than one second). Even experienced mechanics can't always do the bump right, so if you crank for a second or two, that's normal for anyone.

    I was sure yu would ask .. my description was not meant to be a complete step-by-step.... I'm sure I wasn't clear, also.. Please post again after you try the following (you will need a marker or a really good pencil:

    1. On the distributor cap, determine which distributor socket is the #1 cylinder (the cap may be stamped with a "1").

    2. With the distributor cap ON the assembly, mark the metal base where the #1 socket is (mark the distributor cap and the base.

    3. Remove the distributor cap. Your mark will be on the distributor asseembly base. This is where the rotor needs to point after the distributor assembly is inserted into the engine.

    4. But, first! The #1 cylinder on the engine must be in Top-Dead-Center (actuall, a few "degrees" Before TDC).

    Put the engine in TDC (at least two ways):

    I will post this shortly, please read my entry above to make sure you follow...

    Look for my follow-up in 10 minutes or so...

  • Just Gort
    Just Gort Sep 10, 2009

    Two ways to place engine in Top-Dead-Center:

    1. Locate the timing mark on the engine pulley (probably the lowest one)

    or locate the timing "scale" on the engine block adjacent to one of the pulleys.

    2. That pulley is the timing pulley.

    3. make any kind of temporary mark on the pulley and "bump" the ignition key.

    4. Observe the temporary mark on the pulley to determine which direction the pulley travelled (clockwise or Counter-clockwise)..

    You might have to do this a couple of times if you "lose" the mark if the pulley turns too much ... not to worry! Hopefully, you also saw the permanent mark that is etched onto the pulley.

    5. Anyway, you want the permanent mark to line up about an inch before the permanent mark reaches the Center mark on the scale. This will be approximately "8 degrees before top dead center" (8 Degrees BTDC).

    6. Once your engine is in that position, insert the distributor shaft assembly and make sure the rotor is pointing to the mark you made on the distributor assembly base. If it is off, then remove & slightly twist the shaft and re-insert into the motor.

    7. Tigheten it down! Put cap back onthe assembly....

    8. The engine should start...

    If you want the "second" way to do this, please advise; however, it is more complicated...

    Please comment.... All readers ar anxious!

  • Just Gort
    Just Gort Sep 11, 2009

    Additional thoughts:

    First, I hope everything worked out ok.

    The engine may misfire a little.... You set the timing to a close approximation.

    To adjust (if you have a good ear), turn off engine.

    1. Loosen the distributor (slightly) so that it is possible to turn the distributor cap by hand, but not loose enough for it to move by the vibration of the engine.

    2. Next turn ON engine.

    3. Carefully, turn the distributor cap either clockwise or counter clockwise VERY SLOWLY, and only for a fraction of an inch, as you listen to the engine. If the engine sounds rougher .. or cuts off.... go back... and turn ON the engine again.

    4. Repeat step 3, in whatever direction makes the engine sound better, but don't tighten the cap just yet.

    5. Once you have the "feel" ... have someone bring the RPM's a bit higher and adjust slightly & tighten down..., or go ahead and tighten it down and take it for a spin.

    6. You may find that it's a bit sluggish at higher RPM. That's normal when you don't have the timing quite right ... but .. not to worry!

    You should drive to a shop and have them check and set the timing correctly; with a timing light.

    If you want to know how to use one, go to the auto store where you bought the plugs, cap, etc. They may lend / rent you a timing light.(maybe free)... don't buy one ($50)... you won't use it often.

    Post your progress and let us know if you have a timing light.

    Hope it all worked out ... I had my fingers crossed.

  • Just Gort
    Just Gort Sep 11, 2009

    Additional thoughts #2:

    If the car doesn't start ... or misfires badly... or is running very rough:

    That's OK ... the sparkplug wires are not in the proper order in the distributor cap, except #1, and maybe some of the others....

    That can be corrected.... Let us know if that is an issue.

    If so, please locate the "firing order" that is stamped on the intake manifold of the engine.

    The numbers could be: 1-5-3-6-2-4

    or .... ??

    Good night!

  • Just Gort
    Just Gort Sep 11, 2009

    I just read your "good afternoon" post. I hope you read my other posts regarding adjusting a "running rough" engine.

    Is that a four or six cylinder?


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

2 Answers


The coil is inside the distributor.
You could pull one plug wire at a time and use a spark plug or tester to check for spark.
Usually a visual exam will find fault with the cap or wires.

Mar 09, 2013 | 1993 Geo Prizm

2 Answers

Sputtering on 1994 nissan altima

check fuel filter,or fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator.Also check fuel filler cap.Check exhaust system for plugged catalytic converter,muffler,bent exhaust pipes,etc.

Feb 17, 2013 | 1994 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

Want to remove and replace the distributor in my 1997 gmc

1 Remove the plastic cover from the engine block with a wrench, then let the spark plug wires lead you to the distributor. It's at the back of the engine block.

2 Remove the negative cable from the battery at the side of the engine compartment; carefully pull the spark plug wires off the distributor cap so you don't damage them. Use a screwdriver to take off the coil leads from the distributor and the electrical connector at the bottom of the distributor.

3 Loosen the clamps and take off the distributor cap. Mark the parts to align the rotor position to the distributor housing and the housing to the engine block. This will help replace parts correctly during distributor installation.

4 Unbolt the distributor hold-down bolt with a wrench and remove the distributor from the engine.

5 Install the new Sierra distributor, aligning the marks for proper seating in the engine block. When ordering the distributor, give the parts dealer your model, year and engine size. You can order part number A1841639 from Parts Train for a 4.3L engine.

6 Re-install the distributor hold-down bolt. Replace the distributor cap and put the clamps back on. Attach the electrical connector at the base of the distributor, put on the spark plug wires and coil leads, and hook up the negative battery cable.

Read more: Car OBD2 Diagnostic

Aug 05, 2012 | 1986 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

I need the diagram for plug wiring for 1992 ford tempo

Firing order is 1-3-4-2 Please rate if this helps

Installation of wires
  1. Whenever a high tension wire is removed for any reason from a spark plug, coil or distributor cap, or a new high tension wire is installed, Silicone Dielectric Compound WA-10, D7AZ-19A331-A (ESE-M1C171-A) or equivalent must be applied to boot before it is reconnected. Using a small clean tool, coat entire interior surface of boot with Silicone Dielectric Compound WA-10, D7AZ-19A331-A (ESE-M1C171-A) or equivalent.
  1. Insert each wire on proper terminal of distributor cap. Ensure wires are all the way down over their terminals. The No. 1 terminal is identified on cap. Install wires starting with No. 1 terminal.
  1. Remove wire retaining brackets from old high tension wire set and install them on new set in same relative position. Install wires in brackets on valve rocker arm covers.
  1. Connect wires to proper spark plugs.
  1. Install coil wire.

Installation of distributor
Before installing distributor, visually inspect distributor. Inspect O-ring. It should fit tightly and be free of cuts. The drive gear should be free of nicks, cracks and excessive wear. Rotate distributor drive shaft. It should move freely, without binding.
  1. To install distributor correctly, No. 1 piston must be at Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke. Remove No. 1 cylinder spark plug and rotate engine clockwise until No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke.
  1. With No. 1 piston on compression stroke, align timing pointer with TDC on the crankshaft damper.
  1. Align locating boss on rotor with hole on armature. Fully seat rotor on distributor shaft.
  1. Rotate distributor shaft so blade on rotor is pointing toward mark on distributor base, that was previously made in Step 2 of the Removal procedure.
  1. While installing distributor, continue rotating rotor slightly so leading edge of the vane is centered in vane switch stator assembly.
  1. Rotate distributor in block to align leading edge of vane and vane switch stator assembly. Verify rotor is pointing at No. 1 mark on distributor base. If vane and vane switch stator cannot be aligned by rotating distributor in cylinder block, remove distributor enough to just disengage distributor gear from camshaft gear. Rotate rotor enough to engage distributor gear on another tooth of camshaft gear. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.
  1. Install distributor hold-down clamp and bolt. Tighten bolt, but leave it loose enough to rotate distributor.
  1. Install distributor cap, No. 1 spark plug and ignition wires. Check that ignition wires are securely connected to the cap and spark plugs. Tighten distributor cap hold-down screws to 2.0-2.6 Nm (18-23 lb-in).
  1. Reconnect distributor to wiring harness.
  1. Set initial timing according to procedures found in Section 13A of the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual .
  1. After timing is set, tighten distributor hold-down bolts to 23-34 Nm (17-25 lb-ft).
  1. Recheck initial timing. Adjust if necessary.

Oct 11, 2011 | 1992 Ford Tempo

2 Answers

Not sure how to replce spark plug wires from the distributor need help please send info

change one spark wire at a time on the new set of spark plugs wires remove them from box.match old wires with new wires to use the correct length to each if you need to change distributor cap.mark location distributor cap.number tag plug wires on the distributor cap so you can remove plug wires on distributor cap so you can replace cap and rotor and put wires back on the distributor cap in correct place.remember change one plug wire at a time so you wont get confuse.

Apr 15, 2011 | 1992 Ford Tempo

1 Answer

After changing the distributor cap rotor button plugs and wires due to a miss the car cranked up and ran 15 minutes then shut off. i now have no spark from the cap to the plug wires. any ideas?

It sounds like something is improperly installed or broken under the distributor cap. Take the cap back off and check for damaged/misaligned/broken parts or electrical connectors that are loose. If you see nothing obviously wrong, the igniter may have given up the ghost. This is part of the distributor assembly and you have to buy a complete distributor to get it. The igniter can be destroyed by improperly gapped plugs, a broken or damaged cap or rotor, etc.

Jan 16, 2011 | 1992 Honda Accord

1 Answer


Could be the ignition module. It is located on distributor under rotor . Unscrew distributor cap and flip out of the way, leaving spark plug wires attached. Pull rotor off and remove electrical wires on both ends of ignition module. unbolt ignition module and remove. Make sure you put the grease on the metal bottom side of ignition module to disipate the heat that is generated, before you install new ignition module, if you want it to last.Good Luck.

Jan 03, 2011 | 1995 Chevrolet Blazer

2 Answers

2000 dodge durango 318 v8 quit running while driving.cranks but won't start or fire.

Check to see if there is any spark coming to the spark plugs from the distributor,if so change out your plugs, if not check from the coil to the distibutor, if so then change distibutor cap and button( if that still dossn't get it try the entire distributor), if not than check the hot wire going into the coil and if that is hot try replacing the coil but if not then i think you may have an electronic or wireing issue

Aug 11, 2010 | Dodge Durango Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How to change te spark plugs

Hi: If this is your 1st time to Change your Spark Plugs, I recommend that you First of All Get the Correct Spark Plugs from your Auto Parts Store, Then Locate your Spark Plug Wires which run from your Distributor Cap to your Spark Plugs.If you have a V-8 There will be 8 if you Have a V-6 Then You'll have six Spark Plug Wires and 1- COIL Wire which is located in the Center of your Distributor Cap to your Coil. It is the Shortes Wire.I Recommend you ONLY do 1-Spark Plug at a Time, This will Prevent you from getting any of your wires Crossed which will Cause your Engine to Run Rough ,Back Fire or Not even Start,So just Pull off 1-Wire From Spark Plug and one Wire From Your Distributor Cap, You'll Need a Spark Plug Socket Probally 5/8th in. And a Ratchet and 2- Different Size Extensions to beable to reackh all your Spark PlugsNOTE!! Buy you a Spark Plug Wire Tool there not very Expensive but well worth it,This was you Can Pull the Wires with out Damaging Your Wires.And you Might Want to Put NEW Spark Plug Wires On as well, If So and I do Recommend This. And Again Just do 1- Wire and Plug At a Time So you'll know you Have Not Crossed any Wires. Hope This Helps You ,Please Respond by Voting on This Problem And How it Helped You. Thanks From WYOCWBOY

May 29, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

How change spark plug wire

alot of the 4 cyl vehicles spark plug leads are joined to distributor cap and come as complete assembly leads and cap.the new leads have cylinder numers on them and/or on dissy cap.
twist and pull to remove leads out of haed(spark plugs),remove 3 screws from dissy cap and replace.

Feb 15, 2010 | 1996 Toyota Corolla

Not finding what you are looking for?
1996 Mazda 626 Logo

586 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Mazda Experts


Level 3 Expert

75822 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

Jeff Turcotte
Jeff Turcotte

Level 3 Expert

8202 Answers

Are you a Mazda Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides