Question about 1983 Jeep CJ7

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1976 postal jeep keeps burning up electronic modules

I replace the module, coil, and distributor and have gone through 3 or 4 modules.

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  • mercerhouse1 Sep 10, 2009

    yes, all new distributor, cap, rotor, wires.

  • Donnie Wilson
    Donnie Wilson May 11, 2010

    did you replace the whole dist

  • chryslerguy May 11, 2010

    Some of the older systems ran off 6 volts. If a 12 volt module or coil is attached to a 6 volt system, it won't last long. I don't know for sure if this is where your problem is but it is something to consider and look into.

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  • Master
  • 986 Answers

You have already replace dist,I had one in my shop that did the same thing I finally got a hold of a dealer and said the dist shaft had to be demagnitized I pull dist and shaft sent it to the dealer and never had anymore problems,I hope this helps you

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

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If this by slight chance doesn't work which I do think will work; Then you can try
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The distributor, in addition to housing the mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms, contains the electronic control module, and the magnetic triggering device. The magnetic pick-up assembly contains a permanent magnet, a pole piece with internal teeth, and a pick-up coil (not to be confused with the ignition coil).
In the HEI system, as in other electronic ignition systems, the breaker points have been replaced with an electronic switch-a transistor-which is located within the control module. This switching transistor performs the same function the points did in an conventional ignition system. It simply turns coil primary current on and off at the correct time. Essentially then, electronic and conventional ignition systems operate on the same principle.
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I have the same model of car, and I have had this problem before. It is normally the ignition module. Check that the coil has power going to it, using a voltmeter. The coil should have 3 wires connected to it. One is the big HT lead, and then there are two small wires, one on either side of the coil. One of the wires is for the constant 12volt power source, the other is the control wire. With the ignition switched on, you should be able to read 12volts at one of these wires.

The other wire is the control wire, it receives pulses from the ignition module that is inside the distributor. Effectively this switches the output of the coil on and off, and controls when the spark plug will fire. It is difficult to detect these pulses without proper equipment, but a multimeter set to AC might be able to detect the presence of an AC voltage (although it probably wont accurately display the correct voltage), which would indicate that the ignition module is working.

If the pulses are not present at the input of the coil, then your ignition module is probably the culprit.

Open the distributor, and remove the rotor button. There is a round plastic cover over the ignition module, which must be removed. The ignition module is semi circular, and has four wires attached to it, via small screws. Take note of the location of each wire, and unscrew each one. The ignition module can be unscrewed with a phillips head screw driver, and removed. When fitting the replacement module, you must cover it with the heat sink compound that is supplied with the new module (mechanics sometimes refer to this compound as ignition module grease). Without the heat sink compound, the new module will over heat, and burn out. You should be able to replace the module in 15 minutes, it is very easy to do.

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