Question about Toyota Passenger
First, don't if you don't have to.
changing your clutch is a horrible job, and you'd never do it for your own satisfaction. If you have the money, pay someone else to do it; they'll do a better job in less time. If you are really broke though and have to do it yourself plan on at *least* a full weekend to get it done. Maybe longer if you haven't tried it before, which you probably haven't if you're reading this. The following guide is only very rudimentary since no two cars are alike but it will give you some idea of what you'll need and how to go about it.
If your car is a front wheel drive then I wouldn't even think about it. If it's a rear wheel drive then it's not quite as bad. You will need as a minimum the following tools in either metric or imperial depending on your car.
*full set of spanners
*full set of sockets
*oil pan or bucket of over 4 liter capacity (a gallon)
*oil to replace what was in your gear box
*new clutch kit (friction plate, pressure plate and bearing)
*scissor jack, 2 or 3
*phillips head and flat head drivers
if you don't have ramps you can substitute some log rounds or anything that you can put the wheels safely up on. use the jacks to raise the wheels, then chock them, then raise again, repeat until you get to a height your comfortable working under. higher is better. You'll want to jack up the front of the car to probably at least a foot off the ground, and it needs to be really solid since you'll be under it for the best part of the weekend. The scissor jacks will help you get the gear box back into place.
once you've got the front of the car up, get underneath. Drain the oil out of the gearbox, there'll be a plug somewhere. Do this first as the drive shaft acts as a seal holding all the oil in; when you take it out oil will go everywhere. you wont be popular.
while the oil is draining out, locate your clutch cable, there will be a cover over it, usually plastic. loosen off the slack with the adjuster nut and remove the cable. There is generally an electronic two pin connector somewhere on the box as well; disconnect it. remove the gear nob off the top of the stick.
now the oil is drained remove your drive shaft by undoing it at the differential. if its a two part shaft you may have to remove a couple of clamps along its length. now it should slide out the end of the box. a little oil will come out, so have rags/newspaper handy.
now comes the fun; there'll be up to a dozen bolts securing the bell housing to the engine. some may be in unexpected places. It will also have one or two crossmembers supporting the other end. Remove the crossmembers first. put the scissor jacks up to support the gear box weight at the front and the rear. Remove all the bolts you can find. Now try to remove the gear box by pushing/kicking/hitting it with a rubber mallet. A friend is a big help here, the two of you can usually muscle it out. don't drop it on yourself, it can be heavy enough to clutch/break bones. scream. curse. realize you still have a bolt somewhere. find it. Get the gear box out.
congratulate yourself. remove all the dirt from your eyes, and the oil from your hair. tape up your skinned knuckles. have a beer.
changing the clutch itself is one of the easiest parts to do, easier if you have a locater tool. Just remove the parts and swap them over. Pay attention to which way around the friction plate is located; it will go on either way, but only works one way. you don't want to find that out after its all bolted together. you can get an old shaft with the same spline pattern as your friction plate from a wreckers. if you can get one for a few dollars its worth it, it helps you get the friction place aligned. if you cant get one just diddle around until you get it right.
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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