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Without a description of the noise, this is impossible to diagnose. Common problem with these vehicles is a "grinding" type noise. This will be a bearing that has gone bad or brake pads that are beyond the service life (louder screeching or grinding upon braking). Popping noises are the CV drive axles are bad (noise is typically louder when when the vehicle is in motion and turning).
rear shoes should be checked every other rotation, around 6k miles, look for cracks and and any unusual wear, When i service breaks in my shop on 1 regular customer, it is replacing the front pads twice before i need to replace the rear shoes.
Remove the dust cap from the rear hub and bearing assembly.
Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer and wave washer. Discard the old cotter pin.
Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly retainer nut and washer. Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly from the spindle.
Remove the automatic adjuster spring from the adjuster lever.
Rotate the automatic adjuster starwheel enough so both shoes move out far enough to be free of the wheel cylinder boots.
Disconnect the parking brake cable from the actuating lever. Disconnect parking brake cable one side at a time.
Remove the both lower brake shoe to anchor springs.
Remove the 2 brake shoe hold-down springs from the brake shoes.
Remove the brake shoes, upper shoe-to-shoe return spring, automatic adjuster and automatic adjuster lever from the backing plate as an assembly.
Separate the brake shoes from the automatic adjuster mechanism.
Remove the brake shoe automatic adjuster lever from the leading brake shoe.
Thoroughly clean and dry the backing plate. To prepare the backing plate, lubricate the bosses, anchor pin and parking brake actuating lever pivot surface lightly with lithium based grease.
Remove, clean and dry all parts still on the old shoes. Lubricate the starwheel shaft threads with anti-seize lubricant.
Assemble both brake shoes, the top shoe to shoe return spring, automatic adjuster and automatic adjuster lever before mounting on vehicle. Make sure the ends of the automatic adjusters are positioned above the extruded pins in the webbing of the brake shoes prior to installation.
Install the brake shoe assembly onto the brake support plate and install the hold-down springs.
Install the lower anchor springs and reconnect the parking brake cable to the park brake lever of the trailing brake shoe.
Rotate the serrated adjuster nut to remove the free-play from the adjuster assembly.
Install the automatic adjuster lever spring on the lead brake shoe assembly and the automatic adjuster lever.
Install the rear hub and bearing assembly. Install washer and retainer nut and torque to 124 ft. lbs. (168 Nm).
Install the wave washer, nut retainer and a new cotter pin onto the spindle. Install dust cap.
Adjust brake shoes so not to interfere with brake drum installation. Install the rear brake drum.
NOTE: After installing the brake drums, pump the brake pedal several times to partially adjust the brake shoes. To verify proper operation of the self-adjusting parking brake, be sure that both rear brakes are not dragging when the parking brake pedal is released.
Install the rear wheels and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
Road test the vehicle. The automatic adjusters will continue brake adjustment during the road test of the vehicle.
If you have rear disc brakes it is probably very low pads grinding on the rotor.If you have rear drums it is probably very low shoes.Now if you here it when your foot is off the brake then its a stuck caliper(needing replaced) for disc or a stuck piston (also needing replaced) for drums
Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the rear wheel hub and bearing with a socket wrench. Back the parking brake shoes away from the rotor using the adjuster star wheel. Remove the parking brake shoe adjuster spring and the shoe adjuster with a socket wrenchDisconnect the hold-down clip and pin for the upper brake shoe so you can remove the upper shoe from the actuator lever with a socket wrenchRemove the return spring from the lower brake shoe and disconnect the shoe actuator lever from the end of the parking brake cable. Detach the hold-down clip and pin from the lower brake shoe and remove the lower brake shoe with a socket wrench.
Remove front wheel and tire assemblies from vehicle.
Remove the two caliper guide pin bolts. NOTE: Note the positioning of the two rail shims between the knuckle's machined abutments and the brake shoes.
Remove caliper assembly from steering knuckle. Proceed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle, then lifting caliper off bottom machined abutment on steering knuckle. Take care not to lose the two rail shims.
Hang the caliper off to the side using wire or bungee cord. Do not allow the caliper to be supported by the flexible brake hose. Damage to the flexible brake hose may result.
Remove outboard brake shoe by prying the shoe retaining clip over raised area on caliper. Then slide the brake shoe off the caliper
Pull inboard brake shoe away from piston until retaining clip is free from cavity in piston.
Repeat steps 3. through 7. on opposite side of vehicle to remove that sides brake shoes.
Get yourself a large hammer and hit the back side of your rear drums. This should break the e-brake loose. Make sure the brake is released inside the car when you do this. What has happened is that brake dust or rust is keeping the brake shoes engaged with the drums.