I disconnected the ECU but did not wait 10 minutes after the battery was disconnected. I put it all back together (ECU was ALL I touched) and tried to start it, but it did not fire. I found there isn't power to the coils now. All pins on ECU connectors are fine, I'm wondering if I managed to short something inside the ECU when I didn't wait the recommended 10 minutes after disconnecting the battery. All fuses are good as well. I basically drove the car to my house, disconnected the battery, disconnected the ecu, plugged it back in and now it is broken. Any ideas?? This all happened because my turn signals don't work and it is controlled through the ECU, so I thought I'd disconnect it and re-seat the connectors.
Just taking a stab in the dark but theres this nasty wee gremiln called ESD electro static discharge ...
it rears its ugly head when you handle electronic componentry and your statically charged
(all you have to do is rub against the seat once or the carpet)...
what happens is the ESD's charge shorts out the CPU's 5v chip inside the ECU.....BUGGER!!!
the most common method used to overcome this and stop it from occuring is a grounded mat and wrist strap....
as a mechanic i know there are simple actions you learn as yu do your apprenticeship thats teaches you about safety precautions...
but if you do-it-yourself without clear knowledge sometimes things can happen....
my best advice is to remove the ECU and take it to mazda and get them to test it ...
alternatively and my favourite buy an aftermarket ecu and controller such as the apexi power fc (which i have in my fd3s)
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When they changed the battery, they did it too fast. There are two ways to do it.
1. maintain 12 volts to the car's electrics with wires during the battery changeover.
2. Fully dissipate the voltage in the car circuitry to fully reset the ECU and anti-theft system.
Disconnect the battery for at least 2 hours. Touch the battery contacts together for 2 minutes. Make sure the key is in the ignition but not turned on (VERY IMPORTANT). Reconnect the negative terminal. Reconnect the positive terminal in one shot. Wait 15 minutes for the reset.
double posted, why?
I guess you are h3ll bent on gue$$ and not testing.
so keep going replace everything, we love to watch.
why not use the diagnostic jumper as posted in your other posting.
no spark out of coil right.
recap of last answers.
fuses, good, all 7 for ecu +spark good????????
we test them not guess, but ones that look blown are.
CEL Glow key on,?
flash codes ok 5 seconds cranked.
CKP good , the ECU will tell you its bad with flash codes.
why skip this key test??????????????????????????
The ECU must have power ! this is first. not changing out tons of stuff, 12vdc power,, and there are 7 fuses.
i bet you never tested them
or measure all ecu power pins to see if its has power first.
and is FIRST, no brain,(ecu)no spark and then no fueling.
if the CKP is dead, there can be nos spark.
I can only presume you connected a good new spark plug
to the actual coil tower point, then ground the spark shell.
and cranked and spark really is dead, 100 years, same way.
if dead, check 7 fuses.... seen in the book on car.
log in to mitchells diy. (google that)
and read how it works, its all there, read it.
a schematic to.
Try disconnecting both battery terminals, Wait about 30 minutes. Touch both terminals together +/- , Be sure not to touch battery while touching both hot -n- ground together for a few seconds. Then put the hot/red cable back on the battery-tighten. Then put on the ground to the - side of battery. Start your car- push brake pedal to the floor push lock/unlock button. and see if it worked. If not replace battery in key fob. make sure you put hot to the hot side/ and ground to the ground side of battery!!!!.
You can try a Hard Reboot, remove the battery cables from the battery, wait 20 minutes then make contact with the + an - cables together for at least 10 seconds. Normally you would want to run a diagnostic on the new computer if it cam out of another car just to erase the codes from the other car.
P1000 is not really a fault code, if there are no there are no other codes stored then perform the following:
Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery, hold the terminal to the chassis for 2 - 3 seconds, this defuses the ecu and drains stored data thus clearing P1000.
Now wait 10 minutes.
Then reconnect battery.
Start car *without touching gas pedal*
Leave car idling for a good 5 - 10 minutes then jump in and go on a minimum 12 mile drive, you will need to perform a few normal driving conditions, fast, slow, stop, pull away etc so just a normal day to day trip to the town would suffice.
The spark plugs receives power to spark from coil pack.Check the power at the coil pack and also check the voltage at the coil pack with meter.If the coil pack shows proper power as well as voltage then its fault in spark plugs.Otherwise its faulty coil pack.The coil pack receives power from battery.so also check the voltage of the battery it should be exact 12 volt. If the battery shows low voltage then the battery needs to be re-charged. Then check out. Thanks. you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
Your problem is common in the RX-8. It occurs when you start a cold engine and shut it off before it reaches normal operating temperature. If your car does flood, you can first try depressing the accelerator completely and holding it (which shuts off the fuel pump) and then crank the motor for about 10 seconds (not longer or you may damage your starter). If this procedure above does not work, here is the technique a Mazda dealership will normally use (to be performed at your own risk): 1. Use jumper cables to connect to another car battery. 2. Unplug Air pump connector (the black circular motor housing to the left of the oil filler cap) 3. Take fuel pump fuse out (number 22, a 20 amp, 3 from the top of the second column of the fuse box 4. Crank for 4 seconds, pause for 2 seconds, repeat for about a minute 5. Leave for a minute 6. Crank for 4 seconds, pause for 2 seconds, repeat for about a minute 7. Put fuel pump fuse back in 8. Crank for up to 10 seconds, if it catches but doesn?t start, stop cranking 9. If not started go back to step 3 10. If started, wait 30 seconds for oil pressure to rise 11. Stand on throttle until white smoke stops coming out of the exhaust 12. Disconnect jump leads 13. Leave to warm up on idle for a few minutes 14. Put air pump connector back on (see note 3) 15. Go for a nice long drive to recharge the battery