Installed new front pads. new banjo fittings and banjo washers. adjusted the rear brakes up. (drum). installed new master cylinder. bench bled. bled system. no visable leaks found. still has low pedal. no abs system on the vehicle.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has answered 1,000 questions.
Re: very low brake pedal
It is very possible there is still air in the system, as ABS systems can be awkward.
This may be a case of taking it in to a garage - just to "change the fluid", as a vacuum type filler may be needed to put things right.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.
Pedal, not peddle. First make sure reservoir is full at the brake master cylinder. Then check your brake pads (for disc brakes) and/or brake shoes (for drum brakes). When the pads or shoes are very worn down, you will get a low pedal. If you have disc brakes on the front and drums on the rear wheels, first try just replacing the front brake pads. If you get a good pedal after the front is done, many people tend to let the rear brake shoes go unless they are making noise. These systems are designed to put most of the braking force on the front discs, so the rear shoes do not need changing as often.
The brake drum does not fit due to the pressure in brake cylinders. Some of the cylinders are designed to keep a little pressure on, even when the pedal is released. The reason is that you will have instant reaction on pushing break pedal because there is no free space between drum and pads. You need to take clamp and push the pistons back in cylinder, but only that much so you can fit the drum. After the drum is tightened you must pump the brake pedal until you can fell that there is no free fall. The hand brake should be ok, but check it just to be shore. If there is need to tension the cable, it can be done under lever from outside the car (you must go under the car).
Pretty normal to not be able to lock the brakes without the assistance of the booster, it'll take a lot of pedal pressure without it. It's also normal for the pedal to feel harder without the booster, this goes for any car/truck with power brakes. Try it with any other car you have and you'll see.
I've worked on several old Cadis but don't recall what year they started using front disc. If it's been changed from drum to disc you'll likely need a different proportioning valve and possibly a different master to get them to work right. Talk to the seller and ask if the brake feel changed when they replaced the master and if they changed any other parts.
Using a brake pedal holding tool, depress the brake pedal past its first inch of travel and hold it in this position. This will isolate the master cylinder from the hydraulic brake system and will not allow brake fluid to drain out of the reservoir while the brake lines are open.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cableRear wheelsBanjo bolt retaining the brake hose to the caliper. Be sure to plug the end of the brake hose or cover it with a plastic bag to prevent contamination from entering the hydraulic system.Caliper guide pin boltsCaliper assembly from the brake adapter by rotating the bottom of the caliper away from the rotor, then lift the caliper with the pads away from the adapter abutmentBrake pads by pushing (outboard) or pulling (inboard) from the caliper fingers and piston
Install or connect the following:
The outboard pads are side oriented, make sure the spring clip is installed so it is positioned downwards when the caliper is installed.
Inboard pad clip against the piston cavity and press the pad until the clip is seated making sure the pad backing plate is flush against the piston
Outboard pad making sure the locating pins are positioned against the ramps. Slide the pad onto the caliper and ensure the locating pins are squarely seated into the holes on the caliper and the pad is flush against the caliper fingers.
Make sure the abutment shims are in place on both slide abutments.
Retract the caliper guide pins to clear the caliper adapter bosses.
Brake caliper. Staring with the upper end, position the caliper and shoes over the rotor and align the outboard pad upper edge with the caliper slide abutment. Rotate the lower end of the caliper into positionCaliper guide pin bolts and tighten to 200 inch lbs. (23 Nm)Banjo bolt with new washers on each side of the hose fitting and tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm)WheelsNegative battery cable
Check the brake adjustment first. If that is okay, check and make sure wheel cylinders and calipers are working and not leaking. If the pedal does not pump up it is not air in the system it is an adjustment problem.
Could be many things to look at. 2001 Corolla, assume disc pads in front, and regular drum style brakes in rear. Generally, most of your braking will come from the front disc brakes, and no adjustment is provided in these. Rear drum brakes can be adjusted two ways. Manually, they are adjusted by accessing the adjustment "cog" or threaded rod via a slot in the back of the plate that the drum fits up against. This should be done when the brakes shoes are first installed. As an alternative, the brakes will automatically adjust when you apply the brakes while backing up. I'd suggest that you find a big old empty parking lot, without a lot of light poles to hit, and place car in reverse, get going about 5 MPH, then hit the brakes firmly to stop. Repeat this a dozen times and see what results you get.
I am, of course, assuming that the brake fluid level is good and you see no leaks from either the front calipers or the rear brake cylinders.
Hi I'm litoshop if you bled the system and get no results then your brake pump needs to be replaced now before replacing make sure your pads are installed correctly because if there not this to can cause this problem good luck. if this information has been useful please let us know thank you.