Question about 2000 Chevrolet S-10

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I have nicked the plastic tubing of the hydraulic clutch line. This is the section between the reservoir and the braided line into the tranny. Truck is 2000 S-10. What is the best way to repair this without replacing the whole line from res. to tranny?

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  • Master
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You could try some of that puddy similar to JB weld only in a puddy form this sets very quick and is easily applied to a clean surface.

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

Testimonial: "will this not plug up the bore of the plastic tube? used high press. fuel line and 4 clamps. no leaks."

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  • Chevrolet Master
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U need to repair the line using compression fittings, the trick here is to figure out the right size, measure the OD of the line with a caliper and then try to find one at a store like NAPA auto parts

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

Testimonial: "Thank you for the info. Tried different approach.Used 3" piece of high press. fuel line and 4 gear clamps. seems to work. No leaks."

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1 Answer

My 98 camaro v6 manual hydraulic clutch line keeps disconnecting itself


sounds like the lock on the line is bad or the lock on the slave cylinder is bad they make new broke stuff everday

Oct 18, 2017 | 1998 Chevrolet Camaro

1 Answer

How to adust clutch...


You don't say if it's slipping or not. You have a hydraulic clutch which consists of a master cylinder and a slave cylinder. If it's slipping, you will probably need to replace the clutch assembly (clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing). Be sure the master cylinder (plastic reservoir very near brake booster) for fluid level. If low, fill to line. If empty, you might have air in the system. Not sure on your vehicle, but sometimes you can adjust the rod that pushes your clutch fork with the slave cylinder (this will be under the truck in front of your transmission) It is not recommended, but if you need to get it to a repair shop without a tow truck, it's worth a look.

Sep 22, 2011 | 1998 Mazda Pickup

1 Answer

My clutch pedal has fallen a few inches from the floor it does not shift


You have a hydraulic clutch on your truck, check the reservoir for fluid, check the clutch master cylinder and lines for a leak, possibly line broke or need new master cylinder.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

How do i get the master clinder off?? i have the lines and the bolts off but i cant pull it lose


Hello there, The slave cylinder for the hydraulic clutch is mounted to the very front of the transmission and is only held in place with two bolts and the hydraulic line, see item #42 (x2) and item #26 in the attached photo.You might as well let the old hydraulic fluid drain completely and fill with fresh fluid when you get done. I would take the hyraulic line off the slave cylinder and put it in a jar. Then open the master cylinder cover and let it gravity drain completely. This will allow you to replace all the parts with a minimal amount of fluid getting all over. Remember, brake fluid damages car paint!The clutch master cylinder is a little bit more tricky in that you have to get under the dash to remove the bolts holding it in. Other than that, you might have to take your old reservoir and attach it to the new master cylinder unless your new one comes with a reservoir. I doubt it will and you don't need it to anyway. Item #37 and #43 are the studs and nuts you will have to release to get the master cylinder off the firewall. Of course pulling the tube to the reservoir and the hydraulic line should be done before removing the mounting nuts. There may be a clip holding the clutch pedal linkage to the clutch master cylinder push rod.Once everything is reassembled and everything is tight, fill the master cylinder reservoir and then loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. You can depress the clutch pedal to force brake fluid from the master to the slave but if it goes like mine did, once I got the fluid running, it forced out all the air! I put a rubber hose over the bleeder screw and put it in a jar partially filled with brake fluid and kept adding fluid until no more air bubbles came out of the tube. You will know when everything is ok because the clutch pedal doesn't seem to want to come back up unless there is sufficient pressure in the clutch to force it back up. Buy about a quart of brake fluid to flush the lines and leave it topped off. Good luck...

Jan 28, 2011 | 1989 Honda Prelude

1 Answer

Clutch has to be pushed to the floor before you can shift without grinding gears.1991 Toyota 4x4 truck


Check your hydraulic clutch slave cylinder on the transmission for leakage and check the reservoir fluid level. If the reservoir has run low, you may have air in the lines. If the slave is leaking, replace the slave and bleed the system. Let me know if you need instructions or have more questions.

Sep 28, 2010 | 1991 Toyota Pickup

2 Answers

Clutch pedal fails to return fully after depressing.


If your truck has a hydraulic clutch it will have an extra reservoir, near the brake fluid reservoir, and the clutch side uses brake fluid also. Your problem I think, is that you are low on fluid. That can cause the problem you describe. Look for this extra reservoir and check it for low fluid, it may be dirty but should have full / low mark on the side.

Feb 11, 2010 | 1981 Ford F 100

2 Answers

When clutch pedal depressed clutch does not move away from fly wheel started 2 1/2 days ago. is cluth hydraulic or cable? thanks ray


in a car this 'new' prob. hydraulic. check clutch fluid reservoir- should be near brake fluid res.- will be smaller- if fluid is low, or empty- may be clutch master cylinder, or clutch 'slave' cylinder is leaking. check for leak under car, should smell like 'brake' fluid. if your brake master- both reservoirs are to the full line, and there's fluid under car, close to where clutch master is located, or near front of , or side, of tranny- then it's a clutch problem of some kind (as if you didn't already know this!!) relatively new vehicle (by my standards!), should have hydraulic clutch.
do you mean- when you depress the clutch pedal, it goes to the floor, and you can't shift into any gear??
should have asked this first! front wheel drive or rear? i'll guess front wheel drive. may have hyd. fluid leak in master or slave. (apologize for 'terms', but as 'male & female connectors', it's traditional, non-racist and non-sexist nomenclature!!) gotta' be careful, in the 21st century!! if there are, as i stated previously, 2 similar reservoirs, close to each other, then you prob. have hydraulic clutch. may need 'master' rebuilt, or replaced, or 'slave' replaced-it can be rebuilt, but prob not cost effective!
sorry to be 'long-winded/ texted', good luck!

Oct 23, 2009 | 2000 Hyundai Accent

1 Answer

1997 chevy cavalier clutch problems


Bulletin No.: 01-07-31-002B PLEASE RATE ME as this is ALL info you need More? Email me at rejakwilson @aol.com
Date: November 01, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject:
Improved Bleeding Procedure for Hydraulic Clutch Release System
Models:
2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn)
2007 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2007 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models
2006-2007 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort.
Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure.
Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system.
Remove the reservoir cap.
Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid.
Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent.
Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use.
Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening.
Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter.
Refill the reservoir to the proper level.
Repeat Steps 6 and 7.
If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops.
The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear.
Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder).
Add additional fluid if needed.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation.


NOTE: The principal parts of the clutch system are the driving members, the driven member, and the hydraulic system. The clutch housing is part of the manual transaxle assembly.

Driving Members
The driving members consist of two flat surfaces machined to a smooth finish. One of these is the rear face of the engine flywheel, and the other is the front face of the clutch cover assembly.

Driven Members
The driven member is the clutch disc. The clutch disc is splined to the input shaft. The clutch disc slides on the splines to provide clutch disengagement and engagement.

The clutch disc is held in contact between the flywheel and the clutch cover assembly by the pressure of a diaphragm spring in the clutch cover assembly.

Hydraulic System
The clutch release system consists of a clutch master cylinder, remote reservoir, tubing and an clutch actuator cylinder assembly. The clutch master cylinder is mounted to the front of the dash and is controlled by a pushrod connected to the clutch pedal. The clutch actuator cylinder assembly is mounted inside the clutch housing. Tubing connects the clutch master cylinder to the clutch actuator cylinder assembly.



Jan 21, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

CLUTCH


That clutch can bled by using the bleed screw located just aft of the engine/tranny union where the clutch line enters the tranny. Loosen the screw and also loosen the cap on the hydraulic clutch reservoir. watch for fluid trickling out from the transmission end of the line, when this is confirmed, than close the bleed screw, cover the resevoir, make sure theres enough fluid, and pump on the clutch pedal a few times. You can repeat these steps again if necessary to remove and extra air trapped in the system.

Aug 05, 2008 | 1995 Honda Passport

2 Answers

Ford F150 1989


if hydraulic, maybe slave cylinder, or air in line bleeds like brakes

Jul 21, 2008 | 1989 Ford F 150

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