Question about Mini Cooper

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My Austin mini 1985, wont go into gear unless I pump clutch and let oil and air out. After tightening nut back up and done the above it works great. It does this quite abit, so am going through some oil. How do I fix it to stop air getting in and is it my breaks also?? Cheers Charlotte

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Would advise to obtain a simple repair kit for the slave cylinder, which is basically o-rings and grommets, easily done, hardest part is the removal of the slave cylinder from the bell housing access is relatively easy however the 1/2" bolts tend to seize up over the years, so use some release agent, before you damage the heads and hurt your hands.

Posted on Nov 24, 2009

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  • Mini Master
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Renew the rubbers in both the master and slave cylinders ,should still be available in the uk

Posted on Sep 09, 2009

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Sep 09, 2009

    renew the rubbers in both the master and slave cylinders ,should still be available in the uk

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2002 mini one wont go in gear whilst engine running, clutch seems perfect never slipped low bite, brutal force required to try engage and still wont go in


this indicates that the clutch plate is not properly disengaged with he foot on the pedal
If it is hydraulic I would be checking for air in the system of faulty master cylinder
More costly problems may be oil grease on the clutch linings causing it to stick or drag, spigot bearing in the rear of the crank shaft seizing up, rust or dry grease and dust on the splines of the input shaft preventing the clutch plate from moving
All or any of these require a box removal to fix
if clutch is cable operated then the cable may be failing and stretched resulting in the clutch not disengaging properly

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Hi it sounds like you have either worn piston rings /dirty air cleaner /the wrong grade oil in engine as if your temp goes up to high above normal and you have a 10w 40, then change to 30 w 50 and change the oil filter and thermostat,as your sump is also your gear box and you have a gear box heating up the oil just standing still, so do this first and let me know. as piston rings and valve guides are a big and costly job.

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this sounds like oil rings are worn or broken and that would need all rings replacing, have you done a compression test? if not it would be helpful to do one and compare when hot and cold,

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Your description makes me remember an old Austin Metropolitan I had once. The gear linkage was crude and it was possible sometimes to engage two gears at once resulting in a lock-up and a stalled engine. It never happened while driving at speed.

When repairing a gearbox, once the selector linkage has been removed it is usual to select two gears in order to lock the shafts for the tightening or loosening of a retaining nut. There is built into the internal selector linkage an interlock to prevent two gears being selected.

I imagine that interlock in your gearbox is worn or broken...

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How do i remove the fan and pulley on a 1987 ford ranger 2.9 v-6?


The question is: How remove clutch in order to remove fan mounted on its engine-side face.
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  • Best done after shroud & radiator remove after coolant drained.
  1. Uncouple coolant pump and fan clutch drive shaft(s) as follows:
    1. span across combo-pulley-sheaves-unit mounting bolt heads with large tool kit wrench, and
    2. span inline clutch coupling nut with small tool kit wrench. Then,
    3. turn small wrench (and coupling nut) CW while resisting with large wrench (CCW) to turn coupling nut until disengaged from coolant pump drive shaft.
  2. Remove fan/clutch assembly.
  3. Note direction of mounted fan hub and fan blades orientation to ensure proper re-assembly.
  4. On rear of clutch assy, remove 4 bolts to disengage and remove fan.
  5. Assemble new fan to clutch (or, preferably, new clutch and new fan) using new bolts and washers provided with fan.
  6. Couple fan-clutch assy to coolant pump drive shaft as per opposite of uncoupling step 1, above. (Turn inline nut CCW to tighten...30 ft-lb.
  7. Check that fan can be hand turned...CW.)
  8. Rest shroud over and onto fan.
  9. Replace radiator; remount shroud; reclamp hoses, and refill and air purge cooling system.
remove-fan-pulley-1987-ford-ranger-2-9-v-2cg35myhodwcq1awmwat24pw-4-0.jpg

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1 Answer

I am replacing the clutch on my 1994 B4000 4 w.d. manual transmisiion truck. Just want some detail instructions on how to get the job done


HI! FIRST OF ALL MAKE SURE ALL UR TOOLS R IN GOOD SAFE WORKING CONDITION,ESPECIALLY UR JACK & STANDS, ( CHECK LOAD RATINGS OF JACK & STANDS)OTHERWISE U COULD END UP DEAD OR WITH VERY SERIOUS BODY INJURIES. PARK THE VEHICLE ON A HARD FLAT LEVEL SURFACE ,DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST TERMINAL. JACK UP THE VEHICLE TO DESIRED COMFORTABLE HEIGHT ALLOW EASY ACCESS TO VEHICLE UNDER CARRAGE, FRONT UP ,THEN PLACE 2 STANDS, THEN JACK UP THE REAR END ,PLACE 2 STANDS & PUT 4 STANDS UNDER THE VEHCILE, PREF SUB FRAME & OR CHASI RAIL NEAR EACH WHEEL OF THE VEHICLE ,THEN LET THE JACK DOWN SO THE VEHICLE IS RESTING ON ALL 4 STANDS,MAKE SURE THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF & THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL GEAR. U WILL NEED A CREEPER WITH CASTOR WHEELS ON IT TO ALLOW MOBILITY WHILST WORKING UNDER THE VEHICLE TO LAY ON .IF U CAN GET SOMEONE TO HELP U GREAT , THE MORE PEOPLE THATS EVEN BETTER AS GEAR BOXES/TRANSFER CASES R BLOODY VERY HEAVY. U WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE GEAR LINKAGES FROM THE GEAR BOX, SOME VEHICLES U CAN DO THAT FROM UNDERNEITH,OTHER VEHICLES U MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE CENTRE CONSOLE IN THE CABIN TO ACCESS THE GEAR STICK BASE PLATE BOLTS, LOOSEN/REMOVE BOLTS & GEAR STICK, IF THERE IS ANOTHER GEAR STICK THERE FOR THE 4WD SELECTION DO THE SAME FOR THAT AS WELL.REMOVE THE FRONT & REAR DRIVE SHAFTS(PROP SHAFTS) , IF U DONT HAVE PLASTIC BUNGS TO SLIDE INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE WHERE THE SHAFTS CAME OUT, DRAIN BOTH THE GEAR BOX & TRANSFER CASE OILS OTHERWISE U WILL BE COVERED IN OIL WHEN REMOVING THE GEARBOX/TRANSFER CASE. THERE WILL BE A DRAIN PLUG IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE. DISCONNECT & WIRING TO GEAR BOX/TRANSFER CASE & STARTER MOTOR TO ALLOW REMOVAL WITHOUT BREAKING ANY WIRES. PLACE A JACK UNDER THE END OF THE BOX TO SUPPORT IT, THEN REMOVE THE REAR SUPPORT MOUNT. LOWER THE JACK SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW EASY ACCESS/REMOVAL OF ALL BELL HOUSING BOLTS INCLUDING THE 2 STARTER MOTOR BOLTS. 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2 Answers

When starting, clutch down 1st gear turning key truck jumps forward, will start but need to be ready to take off in gear that started in. starts fine in neutral.but won't go into gear without grinding


1st check your clutch system, that is most probably where the issue is as the gearbox rarely ever gives issues

2nd check the oil for your gear box. the oil should help the gears as they move into action or move out.

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2 Answers

New performance clutch, new slave cylinder and master slave wont go in gear, and when in gear and pressing clutch vehicle wants to go


You may not have got all of the air out of the clutch line Try bleeding it again. The sequence is as follows:
1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don’t forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don’t introduce more air into the line).
2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down.
3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.
4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits securely over the bleed nipple which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles.

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1 Answer

2002 Sedona: 2003 Kia Rio manual transmission, stick is stiff g...


I have the same car, the only solution to this problem is to tighten the clutch cable nut just as necessary until you feel that you are able to shift smoothly without forcing it, make sure you start the car to test for that.

You might have to remove the air intake in order to access the clutch cable.

If you tighten the nut too much, your clutch will feel light and you will have clutch slips. So basically keep trying until you're there. You can loosen or tighten the nut while the car is running, I'd recommend.

Source: Experience.

May 18, 2010 | 2002 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

1985 Honda Accord clutch slip and other advice


try adjusting clutch first.if it still slips in 4th and 5th.then you have to change clutch pressure plate and clutch release bearing and check condition of fork.

Jun 07, 2009 | 1985 Honda Accord

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