2002 Dodge Neon Logo
Anonymous Posted on Sep 09, 2009

Engine lost power after Replacing Crank and Cam shaft Sensors?

Ok, I am STUMPED! 10 days ago I replaced the engine in my 02 Neon. Very clean Motor, looks to have been partially rebuilt, 101k miles on it. I drove it for 2 days and the only issue after replacing the motor was a slight miss or lope at idling, otherwise it ran great. On day 2 had to replace my brakes(already knew they needed done just waited til engine was installed and the car was drivable.) After replacing the front rotors and pads I took it for a test drive to make sure they were bled out and functioning properly. During the test drive I noticed a VERY slight **** occasionally at speeds of 35-50. The next morning the car wouldn't start, no spark at all. After checking EVERYTHING externally on the engine, I ran a home diagnostics test and got several codes. I also had it towed to a shop and they ran their tester as well and came up with the same trouble codes as I had. Mechanic also looked over the engine externally, even checked all wires for breaks or wear/tear. I then replaced the Cam and Crank shaft Sensors and ignition Switch, these were the ONLY 3 codes that popped up when the Computer was tested.

NOW, the car starts smooth as butter, still has slight miss/lope,but fires everytime and stays running. The problem now is that it has NO power. I can start it right up, but when I engage the transmission, the car will hardly move.( NOT transmission related). It's very sluggish on take off, I am lucky to get it to move 5-10MPH in ANY gear. Does anyone have ANY ideas? I am trying to fix this myself and not go broke! Today I am going to change plugs and wires, even though the current plugs and wires are almost brand new(used for 2-3 months on Original Engine) and possibly change the Coil, I have the one off my old blown engine that I replaced last week. (This Coil functions properly, or at least it DID prior to the Engine locking up)

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If you said not transmission related, then if you have it in neutral, would you be able to ramp up the RPM without being hesitated?
1- If your answer is no, then look for leak in vacuum hose.
2- If your answer is yes then look for fuel being delivered to the fuel distributors since the air:gas ratio needs to be 14.6:1 for the engine to work smmothly, otherwise it becomes hesitated as accelerated ( as throtttle valve changing its position)

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  • Expert 101 Answers
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Check to make sure that the front axles are really clipped into the transmission. I've seen them come out during brake jobs and if only one side is out the car will move somewhat

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1helpful
1answer

Hi all, 2002 neon Wil not start. problem.

ever see the car run good before, or just died dead? out of the blue?>
cranks ok or not. (grrrr grrrrr sound, or not)_ called cranking the crank shaft. fast.
cranks starter motor fast and not starting?
or never cranks the starter motor at all silent starter?????

2002 Dodge Neon, with secret motor under the hood.
2.0 liter engine, 132HP. or he 2.4L I an not guess engines ever
SOHC or DOHC engine were there, both an OPTION./
VIN F or VIN C engine they are not the same.
the twin cam engine DOHC is interference engine that must not be timed wrong ever. I'm told both are but my test is most strict ask.
"Power on no 1 and 2 coil plug wires but none on no 3"
does power mean HV spark or the primary side has power
yes it does if fuse is not blown, all fuses good is first. ok , all.
ASD sends 12vdc to the spark coils.

"Looks like it is one tooth out on timing.( the cam belt wrong?)
really? no engine PCM likes that, it can bend valves on some engines. never time a cam wrong .or boom happens.
the non COP engine (1 coil pack)
has just 1 coil pack with 4 HV terminals
there is no spark timing at all, (is cmp + ckp)_
cam wrong wrecks cam time and spark both.
CMP sensors and CKP sensors set spark timing, and are fixed in the case of crank. (the cam CMP sensor will be off if belt is timed wrong.
WASTED SPARK if you replaced the 4 spark wires 1 by 1,
there would be no mixup and spark would be good.
Coil No. 1 fires cylinders 1 and 4. Coil No. 2 fires cylinders Nos. 2 and 3.
if you mix up the 4 wires HV it will not run
mixing 1 to 4 works, but the wires are too short
mixing 2 and 3 works, same deal
mixing 1 to 2 or 4 to 3 is FAIL
see why> firing order wrong. PCM does the older not you.
if you wreck the order it will not run.
4COPS can mix all you what so there I did both engines

the cam belt is a 60,000 service, if skipped the DOHC blows up.
piston hits valves and boom valves bent and heads a train wreck from H3LL. and compression not 200psi but 5. BOOM.
never skip cam belt service, did you?
did you drive it till it DIED? not told
or just doing normal service now.?
history matters, next time ask for help before going broke on part not needed
btw the quad spark pack the best ones are marked clear as day
1,2,3,4 at HV terms
and engine is
cambelt 1,2,3,4 , trans.
to test for spark only unplug 1 plug or get wrong results on 4 in 1 pack.
the 4cop spark coils test them any why you want even all at once.

always assume interference or go broke fast
and some engine heads milled become interference and you can't know that standing far away 3 feet.
there are some DOHC engines that are free running
means cam stalled and crank spins and zero damage

if you bought a dead car(my act for years) we check compression first not buy tons of parts praying for a dead engine to run.
even engines on a pallet used. I test them.
time the cam per the service manual
if you'd tell what engine was there I'd post it.



note the better coil pack
to test # 2 or 3 both spark plugs 2 and 3 must be connected
and shells ground to the engine block or both fail.
and both spark wires can not be open, mag wire is best.
this is called wasted spark and is only 2 coils if you look closer

coil-undefined-undefined-0.jpg
0helpful
1answer

I have a 2005 dodge neon that will crank but wont start. I have replaced the cam shaft sensor, crank sensor and the coil pack. Iam also not getting spark to the coil pack. Any suggestions?

Primary voltage to several systems, including the ignition coil, dark green wire with orange tracer. That voltage comes from asd relay. There is a fuse for asd relay. To check for voltage the engine has to cranking. The control side of asd relay, the computer has to ground it before it will energize. Did you check wiring circuits for cam and crank sensor connectors before replacing sensors? Are there any applicable trouble codes?
Are you ok with testing wiring circuits?
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Pcm?

PCM= Powertrain Control Module. It is the brains of the car, it reads the sensor in put from all sensors including the cam shaft position sensor

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

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Fuel filter first thing to check after having contaminated fuel removed. Clogged fuel injectors, crank or cam sensors.
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02' Nissan Altima, car jerking, turns off at light, but turns right back on. Engine light on, code from autozone P0335 crankshaft position sensor. P0725 Engine speed signal circuit. The start up, days it...

If it has a code for loosing the crankshaft position sensor signal, I would certainly start looking at that before venturing into the fuel system. Cam and Crank sensors are a common failure item for Nissans of that era. Nissan actually redesigned the sensor and i think they performed a recall on some vehicles. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to replace. I believe they run about $40 each. Because most people don't have access to a powerful scanner or a digital storage oscilloscope to verify the failure I recommend replacing the cam and crank sensors at the same time.
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97 dodge neon died replaced parts and still no spark HELP.

YOU NEED TO CHECK DARK GREEN/ORANGE WIRE AT IGNITION COIL WHEN CRANKING ENGINE FOR POWER..IF NO POWER,SHUTDOWN RELAY IS NOT BEING ENERGIZED..THIS ENGINE ALSO HAS CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR ON END OF CYLINDER HEAD..ENGINE CONTROLLER NEEDS CAM AND CRANK SIGNALS TO ENERGIZE THE SHUTDOWN RELAY..UNPLUG CRANK SENSOR AND CHECK VOLTAGE ON ORANGE WIRE..SHOULD HAVE APPROX 8V..IF NOT..UNPLUG CAM SENSOR AND SEE IF 8V SUPPLY RETURNS..IF NO POWER TRY UNPLUGGING VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR LOCATED IN TRANS HOUSING WHERE RIGHT SIDE AXLE COMES OUT OF TRANS..IF 8V RETURNS..THE SPEED SENSOR IS SHORTED INTERNALLY..THESE 3 SENSORS SHARE THE SAME 8V SUPPLY CIRCUIT..WITH SPEED SENSOR UNPLUGGED,PLUG CRANK SENSOR BACK IN AND TRY TO START ENGINE..HAVE SEEN THIS SAME PROBLEM AT WORK RECENTLY
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Replacing a camshaft position sensor on a 1998 cutlass

The cam sensor is integrated with the crank shaft sensor behind the crank shaft pulley. The 3.1 runs 2 crank sensors. the one behind the crankshaft pulley in integrated to act as a cam sensor. It has 2 sets on rings for that sensor, 1 is in use accustomed for the fuel timing
Good luck and hope this helps friend. 
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Blinking Check Engine light

This is typically a sign of a "detrimental misfire". A blinking check engine light means DON'T DRIVE ME! You may want to have your coil pack checked, plugs replaced or gapped properly, or wires replaced. Would also have to do with the camshaft sensor causing your timing to be off.
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Shake or gentle tug on the wiring harness and try starting the engine! I found that my problem was with the cam sensor wiring harness
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